davidimurray
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posted on 29/12/14 at 06:29 PM |
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Alternator switched feed from coil supply
Fitting a little denso alternator to the duratec. The alternator has a battery connection, then a sense, switched live and ignition light connection.
Sense will be across to the battery terminal and ignition is the old setup from the old alternator. I need to find a switched live connection and it
just happens that my ford coil pack is next to the alternator.
Any reason why it's a bad idea to use the 12V supply to the coil and tee off it to the alternator?
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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19sac65
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posted on 29/12/14 at 06:57 PM |
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I would personly give it its own feed - they may interfere with each other
Also,i used the battery terminal for the sensor wire and it flattens the battery over a couple of weeks
Ime going to connect it to the switched terminal over the winter,or do away with it completely
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davidimurray
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posted on 29/12/14 at 07:17 PM |
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Thanks for the tip of the sense wire. will connect mine to the switched live.
Just rechecked the wiring in my car and remembered that because I have a hard rev limiter fit the 12v can be cut.
Looks like the next easiest place to get to is from the 12V supply to the ignition light.
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 30/12/14 at 05:50 PM |
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If I am right in thinking you need the sense wire as without it, the alternator wont switch on charging as such.
I had the same problem when I bought my car, it was wired straight to the battery and it would flatten in a day or 2. needs to be ignition switched.
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davidimurray
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posted on 30/12/14 at 07:55 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Chris_Xtreme
If I am right in thinking you need the sense wire as without it, the alternator wont switch on charging as such.
I had the same problem when I bought my car, it was wired straight to the battery and it would flatten in a day or 2. needs to be ignition switched.
Thanks Chris
Have you made this mod to your wiring and has it cured the problem?
Cheers
Dave
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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Chris_Xtreme
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posted on 30/12/14 at 09:26 PM |
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yep - it def did stop the battery going flat.
the way I proved it was to get an ammeter, pop it between all the wires that connect to positive on the battery (with the key out!) and i removed each
one until I knew which wire was the problem.. the sense on the alt. It will draw all the time.
I think I put it on the main beam fuse, this only (on my car) goes live when the ignition is on. It only draws a couple of amps until the car is
running, then when the alt gets charging nothing goes on on this wire.
these may help: (there are many posts on here about the denso) also it may vary depending on how many connections you have, I have three. I think
you said 4, but the sense one i believe still behaves the same.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=158490
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html
cheers
[Edited on 30/12/14 by Chris_Xtreme]
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The Black Flash
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posted on 2/1/15 at 01:16 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Chris_Xtreme
If I am right in thinking you need the sense wire as without it, the alternator wont switch on charging as such.
I had the same problem when I bought my car, it was wired straight to the battery and it would flatten in a day or 2. needs to be ignition switched.
That's weird - I've got a denso (3 pin) and never wired up the sense (switched live) as I couldn't find a definitive answer (and
there wasn't a convenient wire to take it from). There have been a few threads on it but no-one seems to know for sure. Anyhow, mines now done
over 1000 miles and the charging voltage has always looked ok, so I can only assume it's not needed.
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