Fandango
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 02:49 PM |
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Alternator Wiring Ford / Lucas
Hi all.
Had a problem first time out in the Locost last week at Oulton Park.
The alternator is not charging the battery, the car would start in the morning, but then starting got more sluggish. Eventually we had to jump and
push start it. In the afternoon the car packed up completely, seemingly insufficient electrical drive for the fuel pump.
The engine is a Ford 1.3 X Flow, the alternator (I imagine, but can see no name on it) probably Lucas.
There are 2 thick wires coming off it, both of these go to positive on the solenoid.
There is a smaller wire coming off the alternator, which goes nowhere, so I am guessing this is the problem.
The car was previously only used as a 750MC race car, so can`t be sure the wiring was properly installed for all day use.
So where should this wire go?
Cheers
"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." Hunter S Thompson
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 03:38 PM |
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its probably the 'panel light' which has to be connected for alternators to work
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BenB
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 04:20 PM |
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Yes- the exciter coils on the alternator require a bit of juice to get the alternator cranking out current. If that wire isn't connected to
anything the alternator stops producing power. Always strange to think that you have to put electricity into something designed to create it but hey.
Such is life.
Of course if the wire isn't connected the alternator stops using up so many HP.
I did consider fitting a throttle pedal mounted push-to-break switch to that connection  IE the alternator produces power on a trailing throttle or
mid throttle setting but when you give it the beans the alternator is disconnected.
Not really worth it though. Even at max output (40A) [which it won't be once the battery is charged] the alternator is only using 480 watts
which even accounting for poor efficiency is about 1 BHP!!!! So not worth it and would be a tad embarrassing running out of battery if a circuit had
lots of straights!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 04:25 PM |
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Warning Light "WL" --- goes from Ignition Switch through bulb to small terminal on a three wire alternator.
It is need to energise the rotor windings to provide the initial magnetic field.See
halfway down the page on this link
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Fandango
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 04:30 PM |
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Cheers guys.
So I should wire it to live when ignition is on, with a bulb in the circuit?
[Edited on 18/10/15 by Fandango]
"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." Hunter S Thompson
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JoelP
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| posted on 18/10/15 at 05:45 PM |
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Ive got a very similar problem which i may as well tack on here!
My pinto alternator wasnt charging due to the energiser wire being duff, so i wired in a new feed from a random live wire. Now, the engine doesnt turn
off on the key and needs stalling.
Is this just due to a missing bulb? Or does it need a diode in there as well to stop it backfeeding?
Cheers!
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minitici
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| posted on 19/10/15 at 08:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Ive got a very similar problem which i may as well tack on here!
My pinto alternator wasnt charging due to the energiser wire being duff, so i wired in a new feed from a random live wire. Now, the engine doesnt turn
off on the key and needs stalling.
Is this just due to a missing bulb? Or does it need a diode in there as well to stop it backfeeding?
Cheers!
Sounds like you have connected to a permanent live rather than a switched (by the ignition) live.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 19/10/15 at 09:57 AM |
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I had that, yes it was down to back feeding and keeping the ignition circuit on. Just. Touching the brake lights stopped the car (when the ignition
switch was off)
Fitting a diode in series with the field wire solved it. Can't remember which diode, but pennies.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/10/15 at 11:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
I had that, yes it was down to back feeding and keeping the ignition circuit on. Just. Touching the brake lights stopped the car (when the ignition
switch was off)
Fitting a diode in series with the field wire solved it. Can't remember which diode, but pennies.
Durite make a 10amp in-line diode with standard 15 amp Lucar spade connectors Durite also do ones that fit in mini blade fuse holders.
A quick eBay or Google will find sellers.
[Edited on 19/10/15 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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