nick-york
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 posted on 27/1/18 at 11:04 PM |
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Battery isolater switch! Help !!!
Hi I'm wiring up my new digidash and it needs a permanent live to it or else the clock and probably other stuff needs resetting every time the
power is off .I have one of those red battery isolater switches fitted .but also there is a live and neutral coming directly from the battery
terminals to a small fuse box then to the digidash .The problem being when I isolate the battery it also disconnects the two wires coming directly
from the battery! It does not make sense to me ! I just can't understand what's happening and why it is not working properly!! Anybody
know what's going wrong please ? Cheers .
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daviep
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| posted on 27/1/18 at 11:47 PM |
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It doesn't sound like it is wired as you are describing or it would work, I would trace the wiring and check that it is definitely wired
correctly.
Have you checked with a meter for power at the fuse box to see whether you are losing the +ve or the -ve?
Do you have any relays in the circuit that are energised by a switch which is fed by the "isolated" supply?
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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nick-york
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 12:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
It doesn't sound like it is wired as you are describing or it would work, I would trace the wiring and check that it is definitely wired
correctly.
Have you checked with a meter for power at the fuse box to see whether you are losing the +ve or the -ve?
Do you have any relays in the circuit that are energised by a switch which is fed by the "isolated" supply?
hi wiring is not one
of my strong points and I would need to check up on certain things when I get back to the car again on Monday evening .The two wires which come
directly from the battery bypass the battery isolator switch so I just can't understand why the switch still isolates that circuit .There is
nothing else connected to either wire apart from the live goes to a fuse box. Then from the fusebox a live feed goes to the 'clock ' wire
for the digidash .another live from fusebox goes to a 12v power socket .The direct negative goes straight to the 12v power socket .I will check later
if it is +ve or - ve which is been cut off .it 'll be Monday when I get the multimeter out though .hope this makes sense .It's all just
baffling me .Cheers.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 09:20 AM |
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is the switch on the --- lead ?,are the digidash wires straight to the battery?.
what i did on mine was to bridge the isolator switch with a fuse holder, that kept the megasquirt alive but try to start it or any bigger load would
pop the fuse
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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CosKev3
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 10:16 AM |
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Sounds like the battery isolater switch is in the negative/earth circuit to me?
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 10:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Sounds like the battery isolater switch is in the negative/earth circuit to me?
+1
That was my first thought too.
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ReMan
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 11:43 AM |
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+2 That how i did mine deliberately
www.plusnine.co.uk
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Theshed
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 12:36 PM |
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Isolator in the negative connection stops the engine being powered by the alternator when the isolator is on - it's the standard way to wire
them in IIRC
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CosKev3
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 12:47 PM |
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Yeah it is the recommended way to do it,but lots of people use them in the +/live wire
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nick-york
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| posted on 28/1/18 at 07:57 PM |
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Well you learn something new everyday and I certainly have today ! I couldn't wait till Monday evening to check the wiring on the car so I went
this evening.The isolater is connected to the negative supply from the battery .The power socket is permanently live even when the isolater switch is
turned off so this confirms it ! So I just need to connect the wire which comes directly from the battery negative to one of the earth wires to the
digidash .problem solved ! Thanks for all the help everyone !
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