EViS
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 07:17 PM |
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Looms - Which?
What looms do most people purchase/use? Is a standard loom from a sierra enough to connect up all the usual electrics as well as an alarm, immobiliser
and 12V - 240V car inverter?
What's the difference between all the looms, i have no idea where to start here... also where and how are looms fixed in a 7 replica?
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donut
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 07:19 PM |
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Premier wiring. They are the best and not expensive. http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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muzchap
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 07:48 PM |
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2nd Premier Wiring 
If ya get real stuck and are a loom freak - Vicki Green is the next stop
Cheers,
Murray
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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EViS
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 07:56 PM |
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£115 for a bit of wire  . What is the difference between one of these looms and the one in an old sierra? Afterall, it is only a piece of wire,
right?
... probably wrong  .
[Edited on 20/3/06 by EViS]
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nick205
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 08:03 PM |
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Vikki Green loom purchased from Lolocost for ~£75. It's designed for a Pinto engined car, but would easily be adapted for others. Well made,
easy to work with and not expensive.
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donut
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 08:05 PM |
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I thought Vickie Green looms were not made anymore? Am i wrong?
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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tomblyth
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 08:21 PM |
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looom
tiger do one also I,ve just bought one watch this space for info on how easy it went in ,good point is all relays etc are already fitted
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muzchap
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 08:44 PM |
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hmm I thought Vicky Green still going?
I got mine about 3-4 months ago (or was it longer - via Robin Hood).
Premier were backlogged and I couldn't wait.
It's been a bit of effort to adapt for a Luego and a Zetec - but not that bad
But as everybody else has said - why risk it? £115 is cheap compared to the hours of headache and heartache if you skrimp on a shitty loom!
Sometimes, just sometimes...
You get what ya pays for....
Just my 2 cents
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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marshall
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 08:57 PM |
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i have a tiger loom in my tiger avon on a pinto it went in very easy it was not marked up as in what wire gose were so i got a friend of a friend to
wire it all upall for £20 all done...
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EViS
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| posted on 20/3/06 at 09:04 PM |
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That amount of wires scares me haha. How does a loom 'made' to fit a zetec differ to one 'made' to fit a pinto for example?
Aren't all the electrics the same anyway...
Also, do loom modifications need to be made often in builds? If so, what sort of modifications are common?
Is any soldering ever needed when wiring everything up? Or is it all just screwdriver and junction boxes?
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omega0684
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 01:50 AM |
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i think i will go for a premier loom as DAX are charging £323 inc VAT for their loom
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 05:27 AM |
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Vickey Green loom is still made and sold by RH/LOLOCOST. However there is NO web support now and as has already been said it is specifically for a
standard/basic Pinto install.
There are also a few errors on the wiring diag.
although it is the cheepest, by the time you have modified it for your engine and car the cost is probably about the same as a more expensive
"custom" loom.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!! 
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iank
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 09:53 AM |
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IMHO it's a bad idea to solder a properly crimped joint 
A proper crimp made with a decent tool (i.e. the £20+ ones) holds together and connects as well as any soldered joint, and doesn't suffer from
failure due to metal fatigue like a soldered joint.
The problems people see with crimping are due to the 'free' crimpers which do an awful job.
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chockymonster
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
I use ratchet crimpers, then solder, then Support the joint with heatshrink
I do the same when connecting, even stuff crimped with ratchet crimpers can come loose, it may sound more convoluted but it does end up with a better
joint.
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muzchap
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:38 AM |
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Hehe - we ALWAYS go off topic
As for the difference between a pinto loom and a zetec loom - I suppose the lights/indicators etc are all standard - but I'm integrating mine
with a MegaSquirt - so it needs to hook into the engine loom.
The Vicki Green loom comes un-crimped - so get the £20 crimpers and get going
or hang about for a Premier loom :p
------------------------------------
If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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James
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:40 AM |
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Went with a Premier Loom myself and definately would do so again.
Doing the wiring was actually one of the more enjoyable bits of the build using that.
To make it easy: Lay the loom out on the car, then go through every wire end and label it. Read the supplied documentation over and over again until
makes sense.
Then, if you've got any sense you'll make up a proper wiring diagram yourself. I went back to my loom to make a few mods 6-8 weeks later
and I'd forgotten what half of it did.
And plan any modifications you need out on paper before plumbing the loom in- it only gets harder if you have to do them later.
Oh, and when finally covering the wires and clipping them all in... add a couple of spare runs of wire. You never know when they'll come in
handy for a later addition to the car!
Cheers, hope that helps,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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iank
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
quote:
Originally posted by chockymonster
I do the same when connecting, even stuff crimped with ratchet crimpers can come loose, it may sound more convoluted but it does end up with a better
joint.
On the button that man, the main reason for soldering/heatshrink : belt and braces security
Regards
Not trying to get into a black and white vs green argument , but soldering makes the wire brittle (you wouldn't consider using solid core wire
in a car would you, so I wouldn't make the last 0.5 inch solid either) Supporting it helps but it will still fail eventually due to the
vibration. That's why they don't solder the joints in aircraft (or nuclear robots of which I had some experience 15 years ago) if it was
a better method of joining they would.
Of course it's probably not an issue in a locost due to the limited milage.
BTW I've never seen a crimp done correctly with the right tool fall off, and you could support that with heatshrink too if you wanted to belt
and brace
Anyway last comment from me.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 10:54 AM |
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Premier loom for me. I also grafted in a DD2, toad immobiliser and savage switches (ie junked the sierra stalks). Made the wiring a tad more tricky
but i followed the instructions and it was Ok in the end.
It does sound like a lot of cash for a few bits of wires but saves a lot of headaches in the long run. Ive had a bad experience with wiring before and
consider it to be a safety related / reliability item now. Wouldnt hesitate to use another premier loom again.
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irvined
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 11:40 AM |
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Premier loom also, top quality.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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iank
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 12:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
quote:
Originally posted by iank
you wouldn't consider using solid core wire in a car would you, so I wouldn't make the last 0.5 inch solid either)
Dunno about you but I never allow solder to leave the confines of the connector/joint, if the solder is allowed to travel up to 0.5 of an inch up the
wire, its being done wrong.
Solder the wire to the connector only, then the wire is just as flexible as it was with just a crimped joint, and the heatshrink helps.
And anyway its bad wiring practise to allow any wire into any situation where its is unsupported and allowed to stress any connector/joint, thats what
harness/wire clips are for.
[Edited on 21/3/06 by CaLviNx]
Bah, promised myself I wouldn't reply - but since you ask:
0.5 inch was a handwavy amount of the stripped end + any capillary action up the sleeve (there will be some, in my experience you need a lot of heat
to solder to a crimp connector since they aren't designed to be soldered). Would you be happier if I said 6-8mm ish
Disagree it will be as flexible the junction between soldered wires and cored wires will be a weak point under vibration, it might look supported but
vibration gets in everywhere.
Support with clips (even if you could get really close to the connectors all the time) will not make the vibration of the wires go away completely.
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EViS
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 05:00 PM |
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CaLviNx, what do you mean by 'tin' the wire...?
Also, do you just apply the soldering iron against the crimp? i.e. don't use any soldering wire at all?
Could some of you post some pictures of your connections? Should help me understand the physical process of all this crimp talk .
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EViS
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| posted on 21/3/06 at 07:35 PM |
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All understood  . And is this the recommended way of doing things by most? Admittedly some have their own opinions on this...
Pics would be great too thanks!
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Chazzy
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| posted on 25/3/06 at 06:33 PM |
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A bit late but i used premier wirings sierra based loom. the sierra bit is related to the wiring for the steering column switches. I then used the
OMEX engine loom in addition and bundled everything into neat tubing stuff. plenty of length on the loom and 3 yrs later no Issues at all (touch
~specially conducting~ wood)
The only "hard" bit was the horn, it is a switched earth loom but the horn was earthed by its mounting bolt (long story but its older than
me oh well my uncle was bought it back in 196? for a mini, he never used it so i said i would, twin horn, very loud) i didn't use the bakelite
relay though!
Chas
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