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Author: Subject: Wiring tips
bassett

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:14 PM Reply With Quote
Wiring tips

Hi, ive got a MNR vortx with an R1 lump and wondered if anyone has any tips before i get started?
Adam

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Mr Whippy

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:16 PM Reply With Quote
solder and heatshrink, get labels and use them on the wires while you still remember what their for and leave them on for future use.





Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet

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ash_hammond

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:19 PM Reply With Quote
Spend a day or so labelin' all the wires, work systematically, one loom at a time, when you feel you have had enough go and have a beer as thats when time consuming mistakes are made.







.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.

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tegwin

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
Tips...

Yes..

Dont lick your fingers and touch the terminals on the battery..

(Sorry, long day at work)





------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!

www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv

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Mr Whippy

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ash_hammond
Spend a day or so labelin' all the wires, work systematically, one loom at a time, when you feel you have had enough go and have a beer as thats when time consuming mistakes are made.


once your really pished, have another go





Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet

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Howlor

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:30 PM Reply With Quote
Just study the circuit diags for the R1 and work out how you wire out the various switches etc. For instance most of them just go to earth but the likes of the side stand switch etc.

Then once you understand what does what on the bike loom you can start to wire it all up. I like to keep the engine loom completely separate to the car loom so that if in the future you want to swap it over for a 50cc scooter lump it is an easy swap!

Just get a 8 way connection and use this as the interface between the engine and car loom, for the neatral light, oil light, Power feed etc.

Hope it helps,
Steve






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r1_pete

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
Just study the circuit diags for the R1 and work out how you wire out the various switches etc. For instance most of them just go to earth but the likes of the side stand switch etc.
Hope it helps,
Steve


If you have access to a decent photo copier get the diagrams copied and blown up (use dynamite when you're really fed up), get a few copies and use colours to trace what you'r working on, and save one for reference.

Pete.






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stuart_g

posted on 19/2/08 at 02:54 PM Reply With Quote
I sent my loom to John at track electronics in Norwich, he stripped the loom of all the unwanted connections, fuses/fuseboxes and left me with a loom with 8 wires to connect up as I'm using the bike clocks, there would have been less if not.
I had to pay for it but it took the hassle out of the job and if the engine doesn't start when I try it at least I know I haven't taken something out of the loom I shouldn't of.

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RickRick

posted on 19/2/08 at 03:07 PM Reply With Quote
i'm at the same stage 04 R1 loom i think it would have been a lot easier for me if i'd had the whole bike to begin with so i know when i've done it wrong!
so far i've labled all the connectors, but what does sub wire harness 1 go to

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wilkingj

posted on 19/2/08 at 03:14 PM Reply With Quote
Everyone above is basically correct.

My tip is, do this on the kitchen Table, and not with the loom on the car. Its a darn sight easier.

Also doing this, gets you familiar with the loom, and its wiring. This then makes any faulting a bit easier later.

Take your time, and look at it as lots of little circuits. Lights, charging, ignition, Brakes, warning circuits etc etc. ie Break it down into manageble sections.

Most of you have seen those Green BT boxes on the side of the roads with thousands of wires in them. Those blokes arent genius's, there is a strict layout and a system in those boxes. Thats how they find their way about amongst all those wires. The Car wiring is much the same.

ie treat it as smaller sections and deal with one part at a time. You will find it much easier.

Final tips.

Buy a Set of proper ratchet crimpers for those blue / red / yellow insulated connectors. They are worth the money in producing consistently good and tight crimp joints. The other cheap £3 pliers will make the joints but leave you with possible liabilities for the future. Its a false economy.

Also make sure all the earth connections are back to bare metal on the chassis. I welded a bolt onto the chassis, head down and use ring tags to connect the wires to the bolt and a nut on top to secure. Finally plenty of grease to stop them rusting.
Personally I use Silicon Rubber Grease. Plain grease is also good enough. Anything to stop then rusting.






1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk

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ko_racer

posted on 19/2/08 at 03:30 PM Reply With Quote
Sub wire harness 1 goes to the loom for the coil packs, cylinder ID sensor and air valve.

Just make sure you've either got a UK loom with matching ecu, keys & barrel or a US loom and ecu or it'll not start. (There are other ways but these are the cheapest)

I can also tell you which wires to connect to bypass, sidestand, clutch, kill and lean switch and fuel light so you can remove those if needed.

quote:
, but what does sub wire harness 1 go to


[Edited on 19/2/08 by ko_racer]

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Richard Quinn

posted on 19/2/08 at 04:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stuart_g
I sent my loom to John at track electronics in Norwich, he stripped the loom of all the unwanted connections, fuses/fuseboxes and left me with a loom with 8 wires to connect up as I'm using the bike clocks, there would have been less if not.
I had to pay for it but it took the hassle out of the job and if the engine doesn't start when I try it at least I know I haven't taken something out of the loom I shouldn't of.


What is the going rate for this type of service?

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bassett

posted on 19/2/08 at 08:12 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers guys that was sort of how i was going to start taking it slow and labelling, might get a new crimper as mines the cheapie non ratchet version.

Ive got the original loom, ecu's and clocks but not the keys. Chris sent a lucas ignition barrel with 4 connections at the back but i havent got a clue in what order they go. Has anyone got any ideas
thanks again

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adithorp

posted on 19/2/08 at 09:00 PM Reply With Quote
Check out Rob Collingridges site. The bike loom stuff is very good.

http://www.robcollingridge.com/kitcar/design/engine/electrics.html

I took out all the lighting stuff and extended the loom to fit. I've now got an engine loom and a chassis loom which only come together at the fuse box and dash.
I got it running before I altered anything Just did it a bit at a time and kept putting it back on the engine and testing that it still worked. That way if things didn't work I knew it had to be what I'd just done.

I'll second getting a big dlow up of the wiring diagram done.

If you get stuck just ask on here!!!

adrian

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