JoelP
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 08:31 PM |
|
|
wiring question
It has been suggested before that the lights on either side should be separated on two fuses, so that one side will still work if a fuse breaks. How
would you wire it thru the switchs and keep it separate though, without using relays for everything? is it possible? thanks in advance....
|
|
|
suparuss
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 09:01 PM |
|
|
use a switch with 2 seperate circuits on it (cant remember the techy term), or put the fuses after the switch.
Russ.
|
|
type 907
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 09:20 PM |
|
|
Hi Joel
I think seperate fuses for each side is for side lights only, so you don't lose both rear lights at the same time.
I will fuse M/B, D/B, left rear & left side, right rear & right side, using 4 fuses.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
Too much is just enough
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 10:20 PM |
|
|
cheers all. i got 8 fuses to play with all in, so should work. 4 as you used them, but then theres still fog, reverse, indicators.
1. Main Beam 120w
2. Dip Beam 110w
3. 6 indicators 90ish
4. Fog, Reverse and Brake 6x21w
5. Left Sides and Tail 10w
6. Rigth sides and Tail 10w
7. Electric fan ?w
8. Horn ?w
anything forgotten or missed out? thanks again!
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 10:55 PM |
|
|
on my car I wired all front and rear side lights on one fuse, and the number plate on another. that way if the fuse blows, you still have light at the
rear.
the front is covered as each beam has its own fuse and relay. I suspect that your dip switch wont carry headlamp current - so you will have 2
independent systems (relays and fuses) one for each beam.
if the fuse blows, you switch to the other beam.
I used 18 on my car, and that was scrimping a bit.
I would put the brake light on a seperate fuse.
do you have a heater?
you need a seperate feed for hazards (power always on) from the normal indicators (switched) so need 2 fuses - one for each source of power.
dashboard electrics (warning lamps and leccy speedo and tacho) need seperate fuse. I used 3a.
dashboard lights (guages) also need a seperate fuse - do you want main lights to fail cos your speedo bulb went short? I used 3a.
fuses should suit the circuit they are on. So, if a circuit is fused at 10a, all the wiring in that circuit should be better than 10a. as an example,
if your lights were 10a fuses, so would the dash lamps cables need to be wired if on same circuit.
do you have fuel injection - computer needs a fuse. As does the fuel pump.
atb
steve
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 18/12/03 at 11:10 PM |
|
|
ok, here it is revised...
1. main beam SWITCHED
2. dipped beam SWITCHED
3. sides and tails all round, and plates PERM
4. indicators SWITCHED
5. Hazards and leccy fan PERM
6. Horn PERM?
7. Fog Reverse Brake SWITCHED
8. Dash lights and leccies. SWITCHED
any better?!
|
|
Hellfire
|
posted on 19/12/03 at 01:01 AM |
|
|
Fuses
IIWY - I'd not cut corners and get an additional fuse block (8). That way you can add some later if you need to.
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 19/12/03 at 01:40 PM |
|
|
could be a good plan...
|
|
David Jenkins
|
posted on 19/12/03 at 01:43 PM |
|
|
I bought a 16-way fuse box...
4 fuses for each headlight (main & dip), 2 for sidelights (left & right) & 1 for 'ancillaries' (dash lights, etc.). Rear fog
goes on one of these fuses, but I can't remember which one...
Excessive? Moi?
David
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
posted on 19/12/03 at 08:08 PM |
|
|
on the plus sid e- sixties acrs only had two fuses on some models.
on the negative - not bothering with a second fuse block and getting a fault, say, on your reverse light circuit, might be hard to isolate if 2 other
things are on the same fuse.
to be really negative - shame to have a lekky fire for a hapeth of tar.
atb
steve
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 19/12/03 at 08:50 PM |
|
|
makes sense to have more fuses rather than fewer, so im gonna get another block of 8 in. Thanks for all the advice everyone!
ps i think it is a bad idea to have the fuses after the switch as you could end up fried if you earth the switch!
|
|