scootz
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 04:35 PM |
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Some Basic Wiring Q's...
The positive battery terminals main cable goes to the starter and then a narrower positive connection is taken from the starter to the alternator...
correct!?
What other minor cables should be crimped / soldered into the ring connector on the positive battery terminal ?
I'm thinking...
1. To ECU
2. To Starter Relay
3. To Fuse Box
4. To Digidash
Go gently on me ... I'm an electrophobe! 
It's Evolution Baby!
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wylliezx9r
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 04:47 PM |
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I would have thought all those things would want to come from the posotive on your ignition when it's switched on. Otherwise everything will be
switched on permanently which would be bad.
I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
George Best
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scootz
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 04:49 PM |
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Good point... well made!
1. To ignition!
The end!?
It's Evolution Baby!
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deezee
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 04:50 PM |
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On my setup I have the main battery cable to the starter. Then off the same terminal a smaller gauge wire to the alternator. Then the only other
wire on the starter is the ignition wire going to the solenoid.
Going off my battery I have two to the main fuse box and the other one goes off to the alternator to give it a reference value. I used my original
Sierra wiring loom, modified for the car / engine.
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deezee
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 04:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scootz
Good point... well made!
1. To ignition!
The end!?
Not unless you don't want your side lights or hazard lights to only work with the key in the ignition? Also will you have an electric fan for
the radiator? That shouldn't be only on with the ignition, that should come on when the engine is hot. So it can cool your engine down after a
drive etc.
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scootz
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 05:10 PM |
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Thank you!
No fan rad (it's air cooled).
It's Evolution Baby!
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 05:23 PM |
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Scootz you will need two fuse boxes one which is connected permenantly to the battery positive, the other which is switched via the ignition switch so
they only come live when you switch on.
So Big fat red from Battery to Starter motor, smaller red (4mm) from Starter to Alternator then another smaller red (4mm) to serve your permenant live
fuses.
Then another smaller red from your battery positive via the ignition switch to serve the 'switched' fuses.
You can then decide what needs permenant live and what needs switched live
Hope that helps
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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scootz
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 06:37 PM |
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Cheers BVT! That makes things nice and clear!
It's Evolution Baby!
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 07:06 PM |
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You may need to control a relay with your ignition switch if you Ign switch cannot carry the required load, should have said earlier
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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chris mason
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 07:19 PM |
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Most thinwall 4mm cable is only rated too 39amps, probably insufficent for most alternators,
I'd use the same as for the battery or at least 8mm thinwall for a cec alternator.
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blakep82
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 07:23 PM |
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think the starter to alternator cable that came off my vauxhall engine was something like 16mm2. i'd go with something like that
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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scootz
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| posted on 9/11/11 at 07:29 PM |
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Cheers guys... I have a starter to alternator cable that came with the engine.
It's Evolution Baby!
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