Fieldy1978
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 07:28 PM |
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electrical bits on a rover v8 in a mk3 petrol hilux
Hi all,on holiday at mo but v8 stuff still going through my head. Was very lucky with headers I bought and only minor mods needed and wrapping them
up.I bought the landrover v8 defender fuel pump on fleabay a while ago and now thinking about fitting it. Now some people say fit the pump close to
the tank. Does this make a big difference as was thinking of bolting to bulk head. Also to turn the pump live where do I splice the live wire
into?I'm guessing the ignition on wire but do I splice into coil or elsewhere?also I have a distributer which came with engine that has points
and I have one without Wich came from the efi lump. Can I use the pointless distributer?and lastly the coil!do I need to source a rover v8 coil or if
I can use the pointless distributer then a matching suitable coil? Sorry im pretty good with electrics but just want to ensure I get everything
optimal!Cheers in advance,spenShare Share Reply
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mark chandler
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 08:13 PM |
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On classic range rovers the pump was down by the tank, I knew a few people that moved them to the front inner wing with no ill effects, it does need
to be set low.
Make sure you get the distributor with the separate box that the coil mounts on, the ones that reside on the distributor were prone to failure due to
heat issues.
Just get a matched coil, I know the early points cars used 9v coils with a resistor wire within the loom.
Regards Mark
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Oddified
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 10:02 PM |
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Any of the electronic distributors (bar the opus...better known as hopeless) are far better than a points type. You need a lucas DLB198 coil 
Ian
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Fieldy1978
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 10:26 PM |
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Mega Thanks for the replies fellas! Will have to see what the pointless dizzy is. In hoping I can employ or iI'll be looking for one to use as
dont want points. Any ideas in the positive switch for the fuel pump?
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Oddified
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| posted on 18/5/14 at 07:42 AM |
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Assuming your on carb/s, you just need an ignition switched +12v to the pump to get it going. To do it properly/safely you should have a couple of
relays so the pump doesn't run when the oil lights on but does while cranking/running.
Ian
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Fieldy1978
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| posted on 18/5/14 at 09:05 AM |
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Oh man this is getting technical with relays and stuff!lol anyone have a diagram for the wiring? Its a v8 defender pump with a single live wire. So no
switch wire as such!
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Oddified
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 02:16 PM |
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I don't have a drawing but do a google, there should be a simple diagram on there somewhere. All your doing is switching that single wire to the
pump on/off at the appropriate times. To get it going/test just connect the single wire from the pump to an ignition switched 12v supply.
Ian
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coozer
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 02:20 PM |
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I am using a Ford Edis 8 with a trigger wheel on the crank pulley for mine. 2 ford coil packs.
Will be using a megasquirt or maybe a jolt, depends on whether I stick with the injection or go with carbs.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Fieldy1978
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 03:47 PM |
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The thing that confuses me is how does the oil switch produce the 12v which the pump requiers?
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scudderfish
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 03:59 PM |
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The oil switch is normally open, and closes when there is not enough pressure. This is typically used to earth the oil warning light. What is being
referred to is a way of stopping the pump if the light is on to try and kill the engine. However it gets a bit complicated as you want the pump
running whilst you are cranking, but before the engine is running and the pressure has come up. It's a safety feature rather than something
mandatory to get the engine running.
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