chrisbmxr
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 posted on 18/7/18 at 06:36 PM |
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More battery problems!
So, after fitting a brand new battery in my MK Indy two weeks ago, I noticed today that it had leaked acid everywhere! Luckily the acid was only in
the area immediately around the battery but it's clearly been there a few days as the metal fixings nearby have oxidized and gone white and
crusty.
Is this a dud battery?
Is there a problem with my cars charging circuit? How can I test it?
Are Gel batteries any better?
I'm currently trying to clean all the acid away with baking soda and water!
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 18/7/18 at 06:40 PM |
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most batteries these days are sealed, if it is leaking it is either a leak in the case, take it back or overcharging, you would smell the battery if
it was overcharging, also it would get hot.
charging rate should be around the 14-14.5 volt range
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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russbost
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| posted on 18/7/18 at 06:54 PM |
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It does sound like overcharging, are you getting a weird sort of metallic smell that you can almost taste?
As said, to check, just use a voltmeter, check with engine at idle & no load, should be around 14 -14.5V, no higher than 14.5, then increase revs
to around 2 - 3,000, voltage should not increase significantly & defo not outside the parameters above. Then put a load on, like dipped
headlights, & you would expect a slight drop in voltage at idle, which should increase again at say 2-3,000 rpm, but again not above 14.5v
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 18/7/18 at 07:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by russbost
It does sound like overcharging, are you getting a weird sort of metallic smell that you can almost taste?
As said, to check, just use a voltmeter, check with engine at idle & no load, should be around 14 -14.5V, no higher than 14.5, then increase revs
to around 2 - 3,000, voltage should not increase significantly & defo not outside the parameters above. Then put a load on, like dipped
headlights, & you would expect a slight drop in voltage at idle, which should increase again at say 2-3,000 rpm, but again not above 14.5v
Thanks, I'll test it tomorrow.
No smells that I could notice to be honest!
If it is overcharging, I presume a new regulator is needed? It's a Fireblade 919cc engine, running a full sized car battery.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 18/7/18 at 09:09 PM |
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If it is overcharging get yourself a newer Mosfet type regulater.
You can buy a kit that comes complete with new plugs and wiring 
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 12:59 PM |
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So, tested it today.
Battery standing - 12.7v
Engine running (idle but with choke on) - 17v ... and climbing (I turned it off at this point as I could hear the battery sizzling!)
Sounds to me like a busted regulator? Gonna need another new battery now as well 
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russbost
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 01:18 PM |
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Oh well at least you have your answer, lucky it's not damaged other electrics such as ECU etc!
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 02:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
If it is overcharging get yourself a newer Mosfet type regulater.
You can buy a kit that comes complete with new plugs and wiring
Just looked in to these, they do seem more reliable! Are they easy to fit?
Just ordered myself a voltmeter to fit permanently so I can keep an eye on things in future!
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 03:14 PM |
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OK, so just went to remove the regulator unit to be greeted by this!!! 
I'm wondering whether this has been caused by my regulator overcharging, or is this the cause of the regulator failing? Looks like the side with
the live terminal which goes to the battery.
I'm no electrical engineer, but I think something's gone wrong here!!!
Could have a problem with my stator as well?
Any help is greatly appreciated
[Edited on 19/7/18 by chrisbmxr]
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CosKev3
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 03:33 PM |
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If you buy a Mosfet kit you can cut that melted plug off and insulate the wires as they come with all the required plugs etc.
Majority of BECs with old wiring looms have regulater plugs that look like that!
I reckon your stator will be ok,as it's still making voltage.
And yeah a Mosfet kit with new wiring and plugs is easy enough to fit
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CosKev3
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| posted on 19/7/18 at 03:36 PM |
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http://www.roadstercycle.com
I bought mine from Jack at the link above
Some good videos on there to show you how to test stator too
Just be aware our asshole government will charge you import tax and VAT on top of jacks prices
[Edited on 19/7/18 by CosKev3]
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 30/7/18 at 07:13 PM |
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UPDATE:
So, I soldered a new connector block on and fitted a new rectifier and brand new battery today (I am planning to upgrade to mosfet when I overhaul all
the wiring in a couple of months) but for now I've gone for a standard replacement.
With the engine running my multimeter is reading 12.4 - 12.6v across the battery and the rectifier gets very hot, very quick. Is this right? I was
expecting it to be reading 13.8 - 14.4v for some reason. The reading is similar with the rectifier unplugged!
[Edited on 30/7/18 by chrisbmxr]
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daviep
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| posted on 30/7/18 at 09:44 PM |
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It's not charging, possibly check your wiring to the rectcifier was it a genuine rectifier or generic OEM, plug may not be same configuration if
generic
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 02:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
It's not charging, possibly check your wiring to the rectcifier was it a genuine rectifier or generic OEM, plug may not be same configuration if
generic
It was a direct replacement with the same plug configuration.
I've just tried the old rectifier to see if it overcharges again, but it's not charging the battery anymore either!
I wondered if it could be a stator issue, though the stator wires do get hot indicating it is putting out charge?
I've checked the resistance through the three stator wires - 0.5/0.4/0.5 and none have continuity to ground.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 05:49 PM |
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Check the output voltage on the stator wires,you need to set the meter to AC not DC,voltage should rise with revs
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 2/8/18 at 08:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Check the output voltage on the stator wires,you need to set the meter to AC not DC,voltage should rise with revs
OK, so I gave this a go (I'm not sure I was doing it correctly though - I'm not familiar with AC) and all 3 stator wires only read
0.8v~0.9v rising very slightly with revs.
I did however fit a voltmeter across the battery and took the car out for the afternoon. When I left the voltage was reading 12.5v, and when I came
back after around 70 miles it was still reading 12.5v, so there had been very little drain if any.
Is it possible that my stator is charging, but very weak and on it's way out?
Really appreciate everyone's help on this!
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CosKev3
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| posted on 2/8/18 at 04:25 PM |
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Yeah it must be charging or you would have broken down!
The revs listed to test bike charging systems is quite high,so you need to rev it up to circa 5k RPM and check voltage then.
A proper test of your charging system is to drive with headlights etc on and see if it can't cope then.
It may well be it's down to your old bike loom wiring,hence why the Mosfet kit comes with new wires to go from it to the battery
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 3/8/18 at 02:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrisbmxr
UPDATE:
So, I soldered a new connector block on and fitted a new rectifier and brand new battery today (I am planning to upgrade to mosfet when I overhaul all
the wiring in a couple of months) but for now I've gone for a standard replacement.
With the engine running my multimeter is reading 12.4 - 12.6v across the battery and the rectifier gets very hot, very quick. Is this right? I was
expecting it to be reading 13.8 - 14.4v for some reason. The reading is similar with the rectifier unplugged!
Please don't say you went for a cheap Chinese pattern part? They are complete and utter junk - the worst of them are literally filled with sand
and nothing else. Use an OEM regulator. It doesn't have to be from a Honda, something from almost any modern (made in the last 20 years or so)
large capacity bike will use a similar regulator, though connectors are often different.
That said the older SCR based regulators naturally get hot in operation, lower power dissipation is a big advantage of MOSFET based regulators.
[Edited on 3/8/18 by MikeRJ]
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gingerprince
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| posted on 3/8/18 at 03:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Please don't say you went for a cheap Chinese pattern part? They are complete and utter junk - the worst of them are literally filled with sand
and nothing else. Use an OEM regulator. It doesn't have to be from a Honda, something from almost any modern (made in the last 20 years or so)
large capacity bike will use a similar regulator, though connectors are often different.
I made this mistake - bought off eBay, described as "replacement for MOSFET". Got ridiculously hot and shut down after 10 minutes due to
over-temp. Fried my stator too.
If they're 30 quid and described as "replacement for FH012AA or FH020AA" they're junk. Eventually I found a genuine FH012AA
as old shelf stock on ebay and it's been brilliant.
The genuine ones have flat metal bases - the replicas are generally resin.
There's a pre-owned example here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-SHINDENGEN-FH012AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-Reg-Rec-MOSFET-FH020AA-Original/332731904834?epid=13007303868&hash=item4
d785df342%3Ag%3AyX0AAOSwwg5ZyQuU&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sacat=0&_nkw=fh020aa&_from=R40&rt=nc
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/8/18 at 08:44 AM |
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http://www.roadstercycle.com
Not much more £ than that used one for a full kit with all fittings
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Rich-MK
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| posted on 13/9/18 at 09:05 PM |
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Hi Guys
I have experieced similar problems on my BEC setup, missfire on light load with lights on then found a very burnt Multiplug to the regulator , it was
also very very hot , so need to replace the plug and regulator
I have been looking at these MOSFET regulators on roadstercycle.com kev recomended and they look the buisness, you get the impression he really knows
his stuff which is great
So i start doing the maths , the super plug and play kit $149, the extra cable and sheathing required to postion it $14.40 ,
delivery $35, total :$199.35 equates to around £152.06, add vat and customs duty and its up to £186.27
so my question is 1, am i working that out right ?, and 2, if so does anyone have any experince of similar kits , perhaps
in this country,that are of a high quality at a more reasonable price ?
I appreciate you only get what you pay for but buying from the states just seems to make it so much more expensive
thanks in advance
Richard
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chrisbmxr
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| posted on 24/10/18 at 10:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrisbmxr
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Check the output voltage on the stator wires,you need to set the meter to AC not DC,voltage should rise with revs
OK, so I gave this a go (I'm not sure I was doing it correctly though - I'm not familiar with AC) and all 3 stator wires only read
0.8v~0.9v rising very slightly with revs.
I did however fit a voltmeter across the battery and took the car out for the afternoon. When I left the voltage was reading 12.5v, and when I came
back after around 70 miles it was still reading 12.5v, so there had been very little drain if any.
Is it possible that my stator is charging, but very weak and on it's way out?
Really appreciate everyone's help on this!
OK, so I have had another thought on this. I've been using the car now since the the new reg/rec was fitted and the reading on my new shiny
voltmeter never drops below 12.4v (except when the headlights are on - it drops to 11.6v then goes straight back when they're switched off).
Could this low reading be caused by my GPS speed camera detector which powers up when the ignition is on? I'll pull the fuse and try it at the
weekend.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 24/10/18 at 11:48 AM |
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? normally your battery will be sitting at over 13 volts right after you switch off the engine then gradually declines to somewhere just above 12v.
You GPS camera detector power requirements should be so feeble that you would not notice it off a large starter battery
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CosKev3
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| posted on 24/10/18 at 07:27 PM |
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At idle with headlights on and rad fan 12.4v would be the absolute minimum you would want to see,with some revs it wants to go up above 13v.
You should be seeing high 13v's
Upto 14.1v whilst driving with no load on the system.
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