Ferrino
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:17 AM |
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Coiled Cable
I am looking to buy some coiled cable (like telephone cable) to run from the steering wheel to under the dash, so that I can run some control switches
on the wheel. I currently have plans for 8 wires, but it would be nice to have a few more for future and adding LEDs, so I was wondering if this
15-core cable would be up to the job:
It is part number 365-240 on the RS Components website and the specs are as follows:
Non-Shielded Coiled, Keyboard Cable
15 core coiled signal cable suitable for keyboard leads etc.
150mm tail length
Voltage rating 100Vac Max.
Strands=14/0·071mm
Current=0.25A
Cable=5.5mm
Coil=17mm
Length=150mm
Extended=1m
The switches are all going to be operating microswitches, so the current passing through them is going to be very small.
The biggest load will be on the relay which triggers my Kliktronic gear-shifter, but even this draws only 0.15A - although for a very short period of
time (perhaps one second), not continuous.
Only thing I was unsure of was the current rating @ 100Vac - how does this translate into a rating @ 12Vdc?
And is the fact that it is non-shielded matter?
THANKS! 
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simonH
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:30 AM |
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Cable
The rating is for 100 Vac MAX ie it can take a max voltage of 100Vac (or DC)
and max current of .25 amp
so 12vDC at .25 amp would be fine
the unsheilded means that if the cable is used for data transfer it could be affected by interferance (so is not very good for DATA). it will be fine
for your needs as you are not sending data, and as far as i know the only sheilded cables are in the ECU and on the HF Circuit (to suppress
interferance)
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:41 AM |
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This cable should be fine, as Simon has said.
Just one thing - to keep the SVA man happy, make sure that the coiled wire looks neat and appears to have a "planned location". In other
words, it looks in the right place, and not just dangling where it may get caught up with things.
Sounds like you have some fun ideas, though! 
David
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Ferrino
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 11:12 AM |
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David & Simon - thanks very much! No data transfer so should be fine!
I now need to find some appropriate 15-way connectors, which I could use to plug it into the loom under the dash. ie. the wheel-end of the cable will
be permanently-connected and when you remove the wheel, you unplug the cable from the dash and it stays on the wheel.
I'd like to hide the dash connector under the dash, so a connector which is easy to engage and 'lock' would be ideal - any ideas
please?
Cheers
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clbarclay
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 02:21 PM |
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I've bought multi core cable like that of RS
Worked well enough, but the wires are rearly fine, just a real pain to strip. You could get most of the wires striped when one wire would refuse to
strip, break off and by the time you had sucsefully striped it, it would be a lot shorteer than all the other wires.
In the end i gave up used speaker wire instead and put a spiral conduit round all the leghts of wire.
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blueshift
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:21 PM |
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tip: strip them with your teeth, not metal strippers.
If it was me ordering from RS i'd probably get the "Trim Trio Metalok Bantam" connectors, in cable and connectors -> connectors -
multipole circular -> general purpose and industrial.
I haven't used them myself but they look like the kind of thing you want.
I'd post a link but it's all session based and stuff, don't think it'd work.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
i'd probably get the "Trim Trio Metalok Bantam" connectors
Thanks - that was the connector I singled out earlier 
Only thing I'm not sure of - I guess you have to purchase the contacts (ie. pins and sockets) separately from RS? Are these just standard
sizes?
Oh yeah - the tech sheet says that it's good for "500 matings & unmatings"!!!
[Edited on 23/2/05 by Ferrino]
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 08:55 PM |
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"500 matings & unmatings"!!!
Must get one of them then. . On the wire front my wife does dollhouses and the wiring in them is very fine. She uses a nail clipper to strip them.
Just grip it with minimum pressure and pull the cable to remove the outer, or get a woman to do it for you.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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blueshift
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 09:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ferrino
Only thing I'm not sure of - I guess you have to purchase the contacts (ie. pins and sockets) separately from RS? Are these just standard
sizes?
I would expect them to come with all the pins and bobbins that you need. I think you want to get a however-many-pin chassis socket, matching cable
plug, and a plastic cable clamp. worth checking with RS on the phone that's all the right bits.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 09:35 PM |
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RS have a very comprehensive site, if it doesn't tell you what you need to know then the chances are a telephone operator looking at the site
probably won't know.
There are some standard size pins/sokets, but find the one you want and RS will have the other half to go with it.
Just keep browsing the site, i've spent days searching for all the parts i've needed on past ocasions.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 09:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
tip: strip them with your teeth, not metal strippers.
But what if me dads borrowed them to go out with ? sorry wasted post but could,nt resist.
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blueshift
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| posted on 23/2/05 at 09:59 PM |
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Then use someone else's. duh!
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Ferrino
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 12:11 AM |
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Thanks - the tech sheet says that these connectors use Trim Trio contacts and that they are available separately. However, I cannot find any
solder-type pins & sockets made by the same manufacturer. There do seem to be some generic contacts, but not sure if they will fit......
You're right about the RS website - have spent ages looking for these bits and others!!!!!
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Peteff
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 12:50 AM |
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15 pin D-sub male and female
Would they carry the current you need.?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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blueshift
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 02:11 AM |
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they would, but d-sub are quite fragile (easy to bend pins), not too easy to locate if you can't see them, and don't have good locking
mechanism.
as for the connector issue I dunno, I'd expect them to come with the pins you need as they're not sold seperately in the same section. if
it were me i'd just buy them and see.
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chriscook
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 08:54 AM |
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Looking in my paper catalogue one of the several sizes of contacts is 437-3712.
If you want something smaller and don't need all 15 wires connected have a look at the plastic lemo connectors. Not used or seen them myself but
the metal ones are very good connectors, but probably too expensive.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 11:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chriscook
Looking in my paper catalogue one of the several sizes of contacts is 437-3712.
Yes, it appears they will fit the Metalok Bantam connector - only thing is that they require a special crimping tool - do you think it would be OK to
just solder the wire on and make a reasonable crimp with basic tools?
[Edited on 24/2/05 by Ferrino]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 12:00 PM |
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Ferrino - could you go to your local trade counter and see the connectors in real life before buying. If theyare not too busy im sure they'd
help you select the right ones. My local trade centre is near to a Maplins as well so if one doesnt have the other might.
What about Farnell as an alternative supplier?
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chriscook
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 03:10 PM |
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I've made up some similar connectors so I can plug my dash loom and engine loom into the vehicle loom and used a pair of long nose pliers and
then soldered them. Actually the pliers had the last 3mm of one nose broken off which made them ideal for the job as i could bend over the tabs on one
side at a time easily.
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Ferrino
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| posted on 24/2/05 at 03:25 PM |
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Thanks Chris - think I will buy their crimp connectors and make the best crimp I can and then solder.
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 25/2/05 at 09:08 PM |
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I have used a 20 way ATX PC motherboard connector to connect the loom on the back of my dash to the main loom
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=20106
maplins, £1.29 per connector (male / female)
worked for me.
otherwise look here:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/multicon/multicon.html
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Bart69
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| posted on 25/2/05 at 09:38 PM |
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What about a male/ female 25 way serial d connector.
Might be bulky but sturdy pins and can be screwed together.
panel mount are available too
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