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Author: Subject: Premier loom to x/flow question
Deckman001

posted on 8/10/06 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
Premier loom to x/flow question

Hi all, anyone here hooked up a premier loom to an x/flow ? I have a slight problem with the alt connection and can't get the charge light to go out . And seeing as I have a straight out the side exhaust, I can't get easy access to the connections while the engine is running with out burning me hand or arm
I need to know where the charge light wire on the loom (blue) should be connected before I start up the engine?
Thanks
Jason






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flak monkey

posted on 8/10/06 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
The blue wire should be connected to the charge warning light. The other side of the light should be a switched live (on when the ignition is on). The chage warning light lead from the alternator is essentially a switched earth if i remember correctly.

David





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rusty nuts

posted on 8/10/06 at 04:53 PM Reply With Quote
Might be worth checking the alternator output? could be faulty . Charging rate should be 13.5v to 14.5v
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Deckman001

posted on 8/10/06 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
On the back of the alt I have the plug with three spade connections in it, The two large tags have continuaty between them, I was guessing the last connection which is smaller was the alt light connection for the blue wire ?? making sence ?? wired like this the light don't go out, and voltage reads 12 ish when run, same as just before starting .
Any Ideas ?

Jason

[Edited on 8/10/06 by Deckman001]






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theconrodkid

posted on 9/10/06 at 07:21 AM Reply With Quote
j,as mr monkey says,a live to the bulb,out the other side and down to alternaton small terminal,assuming you are using LRA100 type ACR alt.
it earths when alt isnt turning,when it gets up to speed the PD gows to 0 and earth dissapears,light goes out.
remove fan belt,connect a live from battery to small term and try to turn the alt pulley,it should be quite tight with power applied,if not alt is shagged or body isnt earthing.





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Deckman001

posted on 9/10/06 at 04:14 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers John and Flak, I'll have a look at the Bright6 wiring and make sure it's all the right way round

Jason






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irvined

posted on 10/10/06 at 10:42 AM Reply With Quote
I seem to recall from previous that you might need to put some resistance between the LED in the bright six module, and the alternator, else the light stays on.

I think I'm talking pants, I can't find any reference to this in the search, but I'm sure there was something about LED resistance and charging lights.


[Edited on 10/10/06 by irvined]





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flak monkey

posted on 10/10/06 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
The bright6 has the resistance built in, so it should work.

David





Sera

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David Jenkins

posted on 10/10/06 at 12:42 PM Reply With Quote
I thought I had a Bright6 problem, as my charge light was glowing slightly when out driving in the dark...

...then I changed the fan-belt and the problem went away!

The Bright6 does have circuitry inside that makes it behave like a conventional filament bulb.

You may want to put a resistor in-line with the high-beam wire, as it's dazzlingly bright. I have the correct value somewhere, if you need to know it.


David

[Edited on 10/10/06 by David Jenkins]






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02GF74

posted on 10/10/06 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
On the back of the alt I have the plug with three spade connections in it, The two large tags have continuaty between them, I was guessing the last connection which is smaller was the alt light connection for the blue wire ?? making sence ?? wired like this the light don't go out, and voltage reads 12 ish when run, same as just before starting .
Any Ideas ?




sounds like lucas alternator, two 6,8 mm spades, ouptut are common,
the smaller, 4.7 mm spade is charge lamp., earth contact is made via body - make sure you haven;t insulated the brackewts, bolts etc and have good earth strapping to engine, starter and battery.

the warning lamp provides current so help self-energise the field windings - there may be enough residual magentism in there to self excite it but then again maybe not. The fact that you are seeing 12 V when running - blip to about 2,000 rmpm, then let idel - imples that either the alternator is duff or has not self -exicted, the latter may be due to no current due to incorrect wiring of warnign lamp

get a smal bulb, connect one end to 12 V and other to small connector on alternator, if you still get 12 V (you should see almose 14 V), then your alternator is bust.

then you can star to figure out the warnign lamp side - if LED, it has to be in right orientation for current to go from 12 V to the alternator.

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johnjulie

posted on 11/10/06 at 12:12 AM Reply With Quote
You could try swapping the led for a standard 2.2W bulb to see if that works OK first. If it does, the problem lies with the led.
Cheers John





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Deckman001

posted on 11/10/06 at 11:57 AM Reply With Quote
I'm sure the wiring of the led is ok, so I'll try the normal bulb route first then maybe the diode pack on the back of the alt, sound about right ??
if it might be the diode pack, where can I get a new set from ??
Thanks
Jason






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Deckman001

posted on 13/10/06 at 04:32 PM Reply With Quote
This is a pic of the alt conections, any help ??
Image deleted by owner

Jason






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