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Author: Subject: Jag V6 dyno results (at last)
CosKev3

posted on 31/8/21 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
I have another question! As this seems to be the thread for al things AJ30 and you guys have been so helpful, I thought I would add it here.

Between the banks of the older engine is an oil separator. Separating oil and fumes presumably? It is in the way of cleaning the middle of the V (not essential, but it would be nice to tidy it up). Its also looking a bit tatty, so I want to check it hasn't rusted through etc. I can't get it off in one piece without removing one of the heads, which I have no intention of doing.

The newer version of the engine doesn't have this, instead it has a blanking plate. So is it required? Have you guys left it in?


The newer version must have a breather somewhere else?

All engines need to have a breather to stop crankcase pressure

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Partofthechaos

posted on 31/8/21 at 08:42 PM Reply With Quote
Ah OK. I had expected that the cam cover breathers would do that, in hindsight it does make sense to have one on the block too. OK, I'll leave it as it is.

Thank you!

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CosKev3

posted on 1/9/21 at 03:54 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
Ah OK. I had expected that the cam cover breathers would do that, in hindsight it does make sense to have one on the block too. OK, I'll leave it as it is.

Thank you!


I'm not sure on their own they would be big enough tbh?

On the earlier Jag engine with the big breather/separator as standard there is a PCV valve in the outlet, so the connections to the cam covers are actually inlets to let air in to flow through the crankcase when the PCV opens

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40inches

posted on 1/9/21 at 08:18 AM Reply With Quote
On the post 2002 engines the crankcase breather was blanked off,and the PCV valve was fitted to one of the cam cover breathers.
I would keep the crankcase breather but gut the PCV valve.

[Edited on 1-9-21 by 40inches]

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CosKev3

posted on 1/9/21 at 02:55 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
On the post 2002 engines the crankcase breather was blanked off,and the PCV valve was fitted to one of the cam cover breathers.
I would keep the crankcase breather but gut the PCV valve.

[Edited on 1-9-21 by 40inches]


They must have increased the diameter of the cam cover connections?

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40inches

posted on 1/9/21 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
On the post 2002 engines the crankcase breather was blanked off,and the PCV valve was fitted to one of the cam cover breathers.
I would keep the crankcase breather but gut the PCV valve.

[Edited on 1-9-21 by 40inches]


They must have increased the diameter of the cam cover connections?

It's the same valve as on the crankcase with an elbow stuck on it
https://www.carid.com/genuine/pcv-valve-mpn-aj812570.html?singleid=4047307380&url=12761753

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CosKev3

posted on 1/9/21 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
On the post 2002 engines the crankcase breather was blanked off,and the PCV valve was fitted to one of the cam cover breathers.
I would keep the crankcase breather but gut the PCV valve.

[Edited on 1-9-21 by 40inches]


They must have increased the diameter of the cam cover connections?

It's the same valve as on the crankcase with an elbow stuck on it
https://www.carid.com/genuine/pcv-valve-mpn-aj812570.html?singleid=4047307380&url=12761753


Ah right,the pipe work onto the early cam covers is only circa 5-6mm iirc.
So they have increased the diameter somewhere as that PCV is about 10mm diameter pipework.

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Partofthechaos

posted on 1/9/21 at 08:12 PM Reply With Quote
So is the consensus that as long as I put one of those valves on each cam cover, I can get rid of the big one in the V?
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40inches

posted on 1/9/21 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
So is the consensus that as long as I put one of those valves on each cam cover, I can get rid of the big one in the V?

Only on one. Air in-air out

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RWD Focus

posted on 2/9/21 at 05:12 AM Reply With Quote
Mine has a smaller breather outlet, maybe 8mm on one cam cover, near the middle and on the other cam cover at the back it has a larger elbow which is probably 12ish mm, not measured them yet but will be one of the next jobs I do, piping them back to my catch tank.
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CosKev3

posted on 2/9/21 at 05:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
So is the consensus that as long as I put one of those valves on each cam cover, I can get rid of the big one in the V?


Only use a PCV valve if you are running the breather back into the inlet tract after the throttle body,as it relies on the vacuum to pull it open when throttle is closed

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Partofthechaos

posted on 2/9/21 at 05:58 AM Reply With Quote
That makes sense. So if both cam cover vents go to a catch can without PCVs, can I still get rid of the PCV in the V?
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CosKev3

posted on 2/9/21 at 06:57 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
That makes sense. So if both cam cover vents go to a catch can without PCVs, can I still get rid of the PCV in the V?


On the early engines I think the cam cover connections are too small personally to be the only outlets.
If you read above the later engines have a larger outlet on one of the cam covers equivalent to the breather in the V on the early engines

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big_wasa

posted on 2/9/21 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
I found if also depends on the engine, ware and tare and the use.

I would always fit one in the block now.

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 28/11/21 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote
I took mine for mapping on Thursday down to Cooksport in Radstock, and thought I'd chip in mine - only 230bhp peak, but a goodly amount of torque. A little lower than I'd hoped, but OK for now. At least it's running right and not randomly rich/lean!

This is with Jag lower intake and injectors, homemade adapters to the ST200 intake manifold and an ST220 throttle body, custom 3-1 equal length stainless manifold and 200 cell sports cats.



I do have a sneaking suspicion that the throttle body may not have been fully opening through at least part of the session though - I wasn't allowed in with it during the mapping, and when I got it back there was significant play in the throttle linkage. It's a little bodged together at the moment, and think one of the link pieces slipped when the guy doing the mapping floored it.

Of course I may be wrong, and it's just an honest 230hp engine! Something to play around with in the future As are wind deflectors - it gets very buffety above 60!





If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.

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sdh2903

posted on 28/11/21 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
Wouldn't worry too much on the numbers they all read wildly different.

The only thing I would say is that all the graphs I've seen the power is still climbing at 7k and beyond where yours tails off a cliff earlier. I had a similar graph when my fuel pump was letting go so I think your suspicion could be right on the throttle not fully opening.

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CosKev3

posted on 29/11/21 at 07:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
I took mine for mapping on Thursday down to Cooksport in Radstock, and thought I'd chip in mine - only 230bhp peak, but a goodly amount of torque. A little lower than I'd hoped, but OK for now. At least it's running right and not randomly rich/lean!

This is with Jag lower intake and injectors, homemade adapters to the ST200 intake manifold and an ST220 throttle body, custom 3-1 equal length stainless manifold and 200 cell sports cats.



I do have a sneaking suspicion that the throttle body may not have been fully opening through at least part of the session though - I wasn't allowed in with it during the mapping, and when I got it back there was significant play in the throttle linkage. It's a little bodged together at the moment, and think one of the link pieces slipped when the guy doing the mapping floored it.

Of course I may be wrong, and it's just an honest 230hp engine! Something to play around with in the future As are wind deflectors - it gets very buffety above 60!


Are you using the VVT?

If so what revs are you switching it off at?

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magpies

posted on 29/11/21 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
I don't understand the drop off at 6700 when others, including mine, are still climbing at 7200.

maybe fitting a fuel pressure gauge may help with the investigation. I would think it could only be fuel or air flow. Unless yours is at the wheels figures

[Edited on 29/11/21 by magpies]

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Badger_McLetcher

posted on 29/11/21 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Are you using the VVT?

If so what revs are you switching it off at?


I'll need to check the map, but the guy doing it said he got a chunk of torque and power at lower RPM, so I guess it's coming in fairly early.

Unfortunately I put the connection to the ECU on the VTech switch rather than the VVT, so there's no way to switch it back off; again another thing to sort!

quote:
Originally posted by magpies
I don't understand the drop off at 6700 when others, including mine, are still climbing at 7200.

maybe fitting a fuel pressure gauge may help with the investigation. I would think it could only be fuel or air flow. Unless yours is at the wheels figures

[Edited on 29/11/21 by magpies]


Fuel pump is certainly another possible weak point to look at; it's always been fairly noisy and I don't have a huge amount of confidence in it. From memory there's a non-zero chance it's a fake Walbro, rather than a genuine one.

Pretty sure the figures are at the fly - I'd be a lot happier otherwise

[Edited on 29/11/21 by Badger_McLetcher]





If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.

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CosKev3

posted on 29/11/21 at 09:45 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah the VVT needs to go off high up in the 5k rpms,it reduces power at the higher revs.
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Partofthechaos

posted on 11/2/22 at 01:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
All the 2.5 V6 clutches seem to be the same,240mm drive plate.
I'm using a hybrid plate thats paddle on one side and organic on the other,from Black Diamond.
It's the clutch they do for Noble owners.


I have managed to get round to looking into this finally. I have spoken to Black Diamond, but they say they they need more info to be able to tell me which clutch I need. I don't suppose anyone has a Black Diamond part number or link do they please? Failing that they said I can post them my flywheel with a torque figue and they can work it out. I mentioned they sold it to Noble for the same basic engine, but apparently that didn't help.

They also said they can amend the clutch to fit the RX8 input shaft which surprised me as I hadn't heard that was required. Have any of you needed to alter the clutch to fit the gearbox?

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CosKev3

posted on 11/2/22 at 02:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
All the 2.5 V6 clutches seem to be the same,240mm drive plate.
I'm using a hybrid plate thats paddle on one side and organic on the other,from Black Diamond.
It's the clutch they do for Noble owners.


I have managed to get round to looking into this finally. I have spoken to Black Diamond, but they say they they need more info to be able to tell me which clutch I need. I don't suppose anyone has a Black Diamond part number or link do they please? Failing that they said I can post them my flywheel with a torque figue and they can work it out. I mentioned they sold it to Noble for the same basic engine, but apparently that didn't help.

They also said they can amend the clutch to fit the RX8 input shaft which surprised me as I hadn't heard that was required. Have any of you needed to alter the clutch to fit the gearbox?


RX8 box has the same size shaft/splines as the Ford ones,so plate needs no mods.

I might have my invoice somewhere, pretty sure it was someone called Simon I dealt with.
The hybrid plate I use,that he recommended as they use them in Nobles,does not show up on any of the listings I could find.

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Partofthechaos

posted on 13/2/22 at 08:44 AM Reply With Quote
Black Diamond told me that they don't do a clutch for the ST200, which presumably means either it takes a standard one, or one of their other upgrades is fit for purpose, but it is likely to need some faffing about.

I've also found this one, about the same price, but it is actually listed for the ST200, any opinions appreciated! I'll be putting through more torque, but the car is about a tonne lighter, so I'm anticipating it's fine? https://www.burtonpower.com/helix-hd-clutch-plate-ford-mondeo-st24-st200-2-5-v6-240mm-70-2729.html

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CosKev3

posted on 13/2/22 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Partofthechaos
Black Diamond told me that they don't do a clutch for the ST200, which presumably means either it takes a standard one, or one of their other upgrades is fit for purpose, but it is likely to need some faffing about.

I've also found this one, about the same price, but it is actually listed for the ST200, any opinions appreciated! I'll be putting through more torque, but the car is about a tonne lighter, so I'm anticipating it's fine? https://www.burtonpower.com/helix-hd-clutch-plate-ford-mondeo-st24-st200-2-5-v6-240mm-70-2729.html


Not sure who you are talking too at Black Diamond, but they haven't got a clue what they are talking about.

In the link you can see all the Mondeo clutches listed,under 2.5 24V they call the ST a RS for some reason.

http://www.blackdiamondperformance.com/clutch_ford.htm

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Partofthechaos

posted on 13/2/22 at 11:27 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the link, I hadn't managed to find that on my phone. It does clearly state the ST200 engine code, so like you say he doesn't have a clue! With that in the list I will get one ordered. Thank you for your help! I think the organic one should be fine, suspect the modest increase in power won't tax the clutch. I'm not planning turbos (yet!).
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