monkeyarms
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| posted on 11/7/11 at 08:06 PM |
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Right, I may have got to the bottom of it. It could be a faulty camshaft sensor. After some reading up I figure out how to test the sensors, and the
crankshaft sensor seems ok, but nothing from the camshaft sensor.
So I will fit a new one and cross my fingers!
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garybee
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| posted on 11/7/11 at 08:52 PM |
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I believe the cam sensor is an inductance sensor, how did you go about testing it?
I don't think a failed cam sensor would stop the engine starting anyway.
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 07:04 AM |
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Gary read this article linky, here is the relevant
part...
One of the two wires is the Signal wire that sends the Signal to the Fuel Injection Computer of Ignition Module.
The other wire acts as a Ground return. This Ground is always provided by the Fuel Injection Computer or the Ignition Control Module.
On this type of Sensor, you'll connect both Multimeter Leads to both wires. That is the Red Lead can be connected to either of the two. The
Black Lead is connected to the remaining one. It doesn't matter which Lead goes where, since the polarity does not matter.
Your Multimeter has to be in Volts AC mode to see this Signal.
When your helper cranks the engine, the Multimeter will display about 1 Volt AC. Usually, this AC Voltage will move between .3 Volts AC to 1 Volt
AC the whole time the engine is cranking, this is normal. If the Sensor is BAD, the Multimeter will not display any AC Voltage.
This Voltage increases with Engine RPM's. So the faster the engine cranks, the higher the AC Voltage.
I really hope it is this sensor and it solves my problem!
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 12/7/11 at 05:25 PM |
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Predictably the new cam sensor did nothing. 
I am now thinking what i can check next. Would a duff alternator prevent start up? The alternator seems to be connected to ECU pin45, should this be
earthed when cranking?
I think a OBD reader may be needed, which is best, a hand held or laptop style one?
I am getting fed up with this now
rich
[Edited on 12/7/11 by monkeyarms]
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RichN
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| posted on 16/7/11 at 05:00 PM |
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How are you getting on? Have you made any progress?
If you're still struggling then post some pictures of your fuse box (open so all of the relays and fuses show - I assume you've removed
the ones that you don't need) and ECU wiring. If possible an overall view of your installation may help.
I will then compare with mine, especially the fuse box.
Don't give up.
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 17/7/11 at 04:05 PM |
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Hi Rich, It was my 40th birthday friday and had a party saturday night and feeling a bit fuzzy in the head today! So I have not been on the car for a
while.
I have bought a OBD reader off Ebay and will try it in the next day or 2.
Thats a good suggestion about pics of fuse box. When Im in the garage next I will get snapping.
Thanks
Richard
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 18/7/11 at 07:25 PM |
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still no joy
I have tried the OBD reader and it gave no error codes. The software said it had connected ok but only after a bit of messing with connection settings
(something about connecting with aux input?). I didnt seem to be able to retrieve any other information from the ECU but I dont know what to expect if
it is ok.
So here are the pics of open fuse box... (all fuses are ok)
In this picture you will see i used the green connector off the loom, my idea being to keep the black connector on the loom to trace wires etc.
 
In this picture you can see where i made the stupid desicion to "trim off what i dont need" turns out the wire for the starter relay and
clutch switch are in there. Also is a Bk/Blue wire that goes to ECU pin 46, this is grounded.
Can anyone see something wrong?
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RichN
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 06:57 AM |
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I will have a look at my fusebox later and get back to you.
When you connected the OBD reader did you have the ignition on (Pos II)? My reader would connect OK but wouldn't read anything until the
ignition was on.
I would expect you to get a cannister purge error assuming you have removed this from the engine.
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 10:12 AM |
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Yes I did have key at pos 2 when reading.
I am wondering if the ECU has a fault.
Thanks Rich
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 06:02 PM |
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After more time in the garage working on the wiring/ecu, I am more and more thinking that I may have a faulty ECU.
I have checked my wiring and cant find anything wrong and that the OBD reader doesnt get any fault codes or other data seems to point to ECU
problems.
So what are my options here to test ECU?
Would a similar 60 pin ford ECU (plus key) at least try to start the engine, ie borrow one to test or scrap yard find similar, or do I need the exact
same ECU?
Or send mine off to be be tested and/or repaired as needed?
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RichN
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 06:41 PM |
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Aux Fusebox Plug Map
These are the wires that I have connected to the 3 plugs. I can't remember what they all do, but if they fed to the ECU (apart from the Reverse
Light Switch) then I left them in.
Your fuses and relays look correct.
If you're not getting anything out of your OBD reader, then have you got the data port wired up correctly? I believe there are 4 wires (Bu/Wh),
Gy/Vt, Bk (earth and to the ECU) and Bn/Rd.
Also are you getting power to the ECU? Check the wiring out of fuse F28 in your box, this feeds power through 2 wires (both Vt/Og) to the ECU from the
ignition barrel (Gn) though F18 in the Central Fusebox through the Diode and into the Power Hold Relay.
I would imagine that all of this is correct.
Did you see/have the donor car running before it was stripped down? If so then it's unlikely that your ECU has broken in that time.
I don't know what else to suggest.
Keep us posted.
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hearbear
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 07:58 PM |
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Have you tried the reader on another car just to check there is no problem with it.
George
3.9Ltr SSC Stylus should be fun
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 19/7/11 at 08:16 PM |
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Rich your plug map is great but i cant make out the text. I think its when this web site resizes the pictures to 640x480 definition gets lost.
Any chance of clearing the picture up please?
The data port is untouched from the donor loom so should be ok. I drove the donor fiesta 30 miles home and it was fine, quite nippy!
I will double check the power to ECU as you suggest.
Also I will check the OBD on another car when I get chance, brothers step daughter has a S reg 1.25 fiesta!
Many thanks for you help so far everyone.
Rich
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RichN
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| posted on 20/7/11 at 09:21 AM |
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I am looking at these from the back of the fuse box (the bit that’s against you’re bulkhead).
I can’t modify the pic as I am in work, but I’ll try and describe.
The Green Plug
Top row left to right
Vi/Wh
Bottom row left to right
Og, Wh/Bk (tacho)
White Plug
Top row left to right
Gy/Og, Wh/Gr, Bk/GR, Ye/Lt Gr, Bk/Og
Bottom row left to right
Bk/Gr, Gy (from the ignition barrel (Pos III), Vi/Og (from the reverse light switch (non-ECU))
Black Plug
Top row left to right
Vi/Og
Bottom row left to right
Bl/Bk, Br (clutch position), Br (clutch position), Vi/Og, Wh/Bk
Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
As you have driven the Fiesta I would doubt that the ECU has developed a fault whilst it has been in you garage.
[Edited on 20/7/11 by RichN]
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 20/7/11 at 11:44 AM |
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Rich, you have U2U
Thanks for the info, that clears it up 
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 25/7/11 at 05:50 PM |
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Mr Madinventions, a moment please -
Still no start up, cranks ok.
RichN is possible coming to help me this weekend so I am trying to clear up a few things in my head beforehand, so may I trouble you to look at the
following?
Will start up happen if –
No dash light for alternator is connected
Alternator is faulty i.e. start on battery power only, as ECU is connected to alternator (is possible to test the alternators working?)
Any other dash lights not connected
Other than ign pos 2 and 3, PATS, fuel pump and clutch switch what other essential connection should I be making?
For info, all wiring to sensors checks ok and I have fitted a new coil pack, cam & crank sensor.
At the back of my mind I am still thinking my ECU could be faulty, to test this would a similar one + key work or is a like for like needed?
How on earth did you start your engine on a pallet and I can’t start mine in the car!
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Madinventions
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| posted on 29/7/11 at 12:53 PM |
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Did you ever manage to get anything from the OBD reader? Did it work on the other vehicle? Does your software support viewing 'live
data'?
The ECU connection to the alternator is so that the ECU can control the output voltage. Most alternators used to have internal regulators but modern
versions use the ECU to do the regulation so it's probably important to have this connected.
I'll go through all my notes again tonight to see if I did something that I've since forgotten about. The only real difference is that I
used a loom that didn't have any cut wires so my money is still on there being one wire somewhere that we need to find and connect.
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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Madinventions
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| posted on 29/7/11 at 10:48 PM |
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Ok, I'm going through the TIS DVD and just jotting the following things down as I see them, so there's no particular order to these
notes!
Double, and triple check that your throttle position switch is connected correctly. If the ECU thinks you have your foot flat on the floor during
cranking then it will go into 'flood clearing' mode where it will turn over without spark to help clear a flooded engine.
Check your 'ign pos 2' wire comes from the green wire on the back of the ignition switch (pin 6) and not the yellow wire (pin 1). The GN
is +12V during cranking, but the yellow isn't.
I've just found the wiring loom from the 1.7 engine that I used for the 'pallet start' video. It's very different, but I can
try and check some things if it'll help? I also found a rubbish video I took about the connections for the pallet startup, and all I had was
switched 12v, start 12v, PATs, and the fuel pump. All of the engine sensors were connected except the MAF sensor because 'I couldn't be
bothered' according to the video! There was no alternator warning lamp either...
I think that there are different versions of the ECU so I wouldn't be sure that they could be freely interchanged. Big_Wasa seems to have a
fair bit of knowledge on this so it may be worth dropping him a U2U.
I'll keep looking...
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 30/7/11 at 05:24 PM |
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Problem solved - it runs !
With a big thank you to forum member RichN for coming eround to help me, he spoted the problem.
I had 2 wires wrong way round into ignition. Swapped round it started, ran then died. 2 blobs of blue tack in the surplus vacuum tubes in the throttle
body and it ran superb also diagnosed a missing wire to the OBD port so we tested that and it came back with just the expected emissions canister.
So very happy now.
Ed, looks like you last post was pointing me in the right direction with checking ignition wiring.
Heres a video after I cleaned up a little
[Edited on 30/7/11 by monkeyarms]
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Madinventions
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| posted on 31/7/11 at 06:18 PM |
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That is absolutely fantastic news, and well done to you both for getting it sorted! Isn't it a great feeling when you finally get the engine
running?
I'll look forward to meeting up at Stoneleigh one year, and keep us posted re progress!
Ed. 
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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