daviep
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 08:31 PM |
|
|
Just a guess but mabe the tabs are passing too quickly, mybe try making them wider and/or heavier so that the sensor sees them easily.
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
|
|
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 08:37 PM |
|
|
That would seem sensible. Back to the drawing board again. They were only a bit of inch box cut into an L about 20mm wide. Probably not enough weight.
Picking up the upright studs might be an easier option.
|
|
|
jeffw
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 09:06 PM |
|
|
There is insufficient time between each pulse. I went through all this with the Koso Hall Effect and ended up using the rear wheel as is it 3.92 x
slower than the prop. the further out you can back it the more time it has between each pulse.
|
|
|
Dave Bailey
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 09:51 PM |
|
|
First of all make sure the gap is small enough. I can't remember when I wired mine if the polarity mattered to make sure the rising edge was
clean...
Dave B
|
|
|
daviep
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
There is insufficient time between each pulse. I went through all this with the Koso Hall Effect and ended up using the rear wheel as is it 3.92 x
slower than the prop. the further out you can back it the more time it has between each pulse.
I'm not sure that is completely correct, my hall effect picks up the 4 bolts in my prop no problem, or at least up to about 110mph when I run
out of revs in top.
Regards
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 7/12/13 at 10:09 PM |
|
|
I think it's a combination of moving too fast and not a large enough mass to pickup the bit of metal. Gap is fine, between 1mm and about 3mm
tested with the led on the sensor when rotating the prop by hand.
A new bracket on the front upright is my best way forward I think.
Cheers for the help guys.
|
|
|
jeffw
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 09:43 AM |
|
|
Putting it on the rear is easier
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 10:44 AM |
|
|
But I'm running drums 
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 11:09 AM |
|
|
I have my pick up on the out put side of the diff [ drive shaft ] if this helps
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 07:25 PM |
|
|
I've had a look at the car tonight and I think it will be easier to Araldite a bolt head to the drive shaft (as they are push in shafts)
Would it be better for me to put 2 on the shaft so that it is a bit more balanced?
The other question is for the rpm, the lower cam pulley, it has 3 lobes that I can use as pickups for the hall effect sensor, my question is 6 pulses
(3 lobes + 2 rotations per rpm) going to be too many pulses?
|
|
|
daviep
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 07:37 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by serieslandy
I've had a look at the car tonight and I think it will be easier to Araldite a bolt head to the drive shaft (as they are push in shafts)
Would it be better for me to put 2 on the shaft so that it is a bit more balanced?
The other question is for the rpm, the lower cam pulley, it has 3 lobes that I can use as pickups for the hall effect sensor, my question is 6 pulses
(3 lobes + 2 rotations per rpm) going to be too many pulses?
Camshaft runs at half engine speed not double 
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 07:46 PM |
|
|
I've just realised I'm having a thick moment (been at work all day)
Its all to do with the size of the pulley for the number of rotations, nothing else.
doh
[Edited on 8/12/13 by serieslandy]
|
|
|
jeffw
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 08:14 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by serieslandy
But I'm running drums
So am I. Something metalic epoxied to the wheel?
|
|
|
Dave Bailey
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 10:25 PM |
|
|
Steve.. sorry for the delay... If you go front wheel this is how I did it...
[img]
 
Wheels_sensor
[/img]
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 10:32 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the pic dave, how did you attach the bracket to the upright? Is it welded?
|
|
|
Dave Bailey
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 10:54 PM |
|
|
No the sensor has an m6 hole in the base.. I drilled through the upright and used a standoff to get the correct clearance to the wheel stud.
Dave B
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 8/12/13 at 11:19 PM |
|
|
I get you now Dave, I've got the bolt type sensor.
|
|
|
RickRick
|
| posted on 9/12/13 at 07:03 AM |
|
|
For RPM i'm sure we use the neg side of the coil, stright to the DL mk3 but before we had figured out the right settings on that, we had it
going straight to the white wire on Dash2, but double check the instructions first just incase!
|
|
|
serieslandy
|
| posted on 9/12/13 at 09:30 AM |
|
|
In the destructions it says that you cannot connect the high output (coil) to the dash2. You can connect the high to the dash2pro and dl1.
It's annoying as they have only just added that feature and I would have bought that one.
|
|
|
jeffw
|
| posted on 9/12/13 at 09:37 AM |
|
|
I have a DL1 for sale 
|
|
|
