skidude88
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 09:26 AM |
|
|
12v ready?
Mine are.
Just got 'em fitted in new dash, work a treat.
Earlier in this thread someone was given crap that the fan switches don’t latch.....
I got mine from waxacar.co.uk after a post on here (Hellfire I think).
They were only showing a none latching fan switch (drive with your over-ride finger on the switch when it gets hot????)
I emailed them and they added a latching fan switch to the website straight away.
There appear to be 4 different switch bases (unless I had a bad batch and should only be 2), that the different tops just clip into.
The switch parts can be Latching or Non-Latching - So theoretically you should be able to get whatever combination you want.
I had some that had 2 x N/C and 2 x N/O
and some only had 1 N/O - the 2nd wouldn't ring out!
Unfortunately I'd chucked the datasheets away that came with them, so couldn't check - I didn't take it any further cus I
didn't need the 2nd N/C & N/O.
I've wired up the start button, to just light up when pressed - pointless really - just seen the alternator warning feed idea...
... Now look.... I thought I'd finished!!! - I'll have to look into that now! 
|
|
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 07:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by RichieC
Anyone had any more thoughts about this one? Or indeed any component details?
Im currently about to replace my switches in the loom with Savage ones.
Thanks
Rich
I'm still not quite there Rich - but I will be very soon 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 08:14 PM |
|
|
If ya all want
I can make a simple sheme to put the lights on when it gets dark...
offcourse adjustable..
myself i was thinking of using 2 sensors one at either side of the scuttle..
i wanted that because it garanties:
1) reduntancy?? (if one failes there is a spare one)
2) you cant play with the lights on your own (by putting your finger on the thing..
i was thinking in using an LDR
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 08:33 PM |
|
|
Isn't that just using techology for technology's sake? An LDR might get confused at night anyway, with car headlights triggering it at
night - it might make an interesting light show though 
Taking that idea one stage further, you could link the GPS system to a central database in South Africa where all the world's lighting up times
are stored, triggering ................ nah !
[Edited on 26-4-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 08:45 PM |
|
|
LDR
That's the reason i want to mount 2..
anyway, whats then the reason people buy cars who do that? even more stupid wich put the wipers on when it rains...
Technolegy is there for technology..
and technology makes technology...
What whas there first? the egg? or the chicken??
The lathe or the lathe machined axle??
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 10:01 PM |
|
|
Ah but the finger that operated them was there before all of them
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
k33ts
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 10:44 PM |
|
|
mine light up red when on,
flush fit them drill a hole in the side of the switch at the back and glue an led in
i used the switch on the back to control as youve already got n/o and n/c
pic of two outer ones on.JPG)
tukcustoms.com
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 27/4/06 at 06:18 AM |
|
|
Hi K33ts
Am I right in thinking they are illuminated blue permanently and red when selected on?
If so, this would achieve an ideal solution for me.
Thanks and Rgds
Rich
PS Love the dash, what size OMP wheel is that ?
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 27/4/06 at 06:56 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by k33ts
mine light up red when on,
flush fit them drill a hole in the side of the switch at the back and glue an led in
i used the switch on the back to control as youve already got n/o and n/c
Mmmm dual colour - that's an interesting idea - have you got any detail pics on this mod?
[Edited on 27-4-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
zxrlocost
|
| posted on 27/4/06 at 08:49 AM |
|
|
I dont think there red when on but some of the switches are red anyway Ie brake light
they look wicked when on but are a very bright
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 27/4/06 at 09:17 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by zxrlocost
I dont think there red when on but some of the switches are red anyway Ie brake light
I think k33ts is saying that he has added an extra red led in the switch so that the light changes to red when actuated. A novel idea and probably
better than messing about with add-on electronic control circuitry keeping it simple (and Locost)
I've had a quick look at one of the switches and I can't see a way of squeezing an extra led in there.
I am sure that k33ts will enlighten us soon.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 27/4/06 at 05:57 PM |
|
|
I think k33ts is saying that he has added an extra red led in the switch so that the light changes to red when actuated.
Yup, thats the way I understand it. I cant see an easy way of squeezing another LED in there either
Rgds
Rich
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 28/4/06 at 08:31 AM |
|
|
mhhh
isn´t there anyway to open up the thing
and just change the led?
There are leds wich con do multiple colours (like a pixel on your screen)
When changing the voltage the colour will change..
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 3/5/06 at 08:05 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by tks
isn´t there anyway to open up the thing
and just change the led?
Unfortunately I don't think it is that simple. AFAIK the internal (blue) led is hardwired during manufacture and difficult to remove without
breaking it.
Here's a couple of pics of k33t's mod which he recently uploaded
.JPG)
.JPG)
The alloy collar is drilled to accept an led (hot glued in place) which shines through the hole to change the colour on the button.
[Edited on 3-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 3/5/06 at 08:52 AM |
|
|
its indeed a nice addon
the only thing i don´t like is drilling the alu ring, alsi i tough that that ring was on the other side of the board..
looks like you sandwiched the button by the ring and the first alu ring (it has the gommet in between??? )
we need one extra pic to clearify the happenings.. one shot of the other side of the dash of the button in focussed
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
Flat Pack
|
| posted on 23/5/06 at 08:08 PM |
|
|
Thought I'd resurrect this thread again to say I've had a go at making my Savage switches light up dimly with the dash illumination and
then full brightness for the tell tales.
My circuit is identical to the very first one that MikeRJ posted back on pg 2. I found that the blue LEDs light up with a fairly small voltage across
them and have quite a high resistance built in (about 2k Ohm iirc). I'm currently using 4.4k Ohm resistors to give the dimming effect, I might
go up to 5 or 6k. The switches the illuminate red have a lower resistance, I think it was 1.3k Ohm and need a higher forward voltage to get them to
light up - something above 5V anyway. I haven't experimented much with these yet, but a 1.3k Ohm resistor would probably be a good place to
start.
It might be worth adding the voltage regulator as small changes in input voltages seem to affect the brightness noticeably when the LEDs aren't
fully lit. Instruments getting brighter as you accelerate would be an interesting effect
|
|
|
k33ts
|
| posted on 24/5/06 at 04:48 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by tks
the only thing i don´t like is drilling the alu ring, alsi i tough that that ring was on the other side of the board..
looks like you sandwiched the button by the ring and the first alu ring (it has the gommet in between??? )
we need one extra pic to clearify the happenings.. one shot of the other side of the dash of the button in focussed
Tks
everything was done behind the dash.JPG)
tukcustoms.com
|
|
|
k33ts
|
| posted on 24/5/06 at 04:50 PM |
|
|
dont know how to get more than one picture in a post so heres another one..JPG)
tukcustoms.com
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 24/5/06 at 06:44 PM |
|
|
Ok
well i'm going to do it different.
Going to hook every switch to a nice 5volts regulator wich will be powered by the light switch.
If the light switch is used then it will get powered by a 5volts xk ohm resistor.
Once used it will supply it self 5volts without the resistor from a 2nd reg.
the regulators will become the start dip etc. etc.
How is the radius of the button?
Or should i make a 3mm ally sheet where in the button will be placed?
in that way the ball could touch it??
and the 3mm sheet can be rounded up to 2,5mm radius right??
is a chamfer also any good??
sorry for the questions
[Edited on 24/5/06 by tks]
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
k33ts
|
| posted on 24/5/06 at 08:19 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by tks
well i'm going to do it different.
Going to hook every switch to a nice 5volts regulator wich will be powered by the light switch.
If the light switch is used then it will get powered by a 5volts xk ohm resistor.
Once used it will supply it self 5volts without the resistor from a 2nd reg.
the regulators will become the start dip etc. etc.
How is the radius of the button?
Or should i make a 3mm ally sheet where in the button will be placed?
in that way the ball could touch it??
and the 3mm sheet can be rounded up to 2,5mm radius right??
is a chamfer also any good??
sorry for the questions
[Edited on 24/5/06 by tks]
you almost sound dissapionted that i havnt got an led sticking out of the switch
your way tobe different you isnt making much sense can you add a picture in focus
tukcustoms.com
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 7/11/06 at 11:08 AM |
|
|
I know this is an old topic, but why not use the "spare" switch on the connections to swap between a feed from the lighting and a loop
feed from the switch side, instead of adding relays?
Example:
Common goes to led +
N/C goes to side lights
N/O goes to positive output of the switched circuit.
This way, the lights will be off in daylight and work if the switch is operated. At night the led will be on with the sidelights, but will also work
if you switch it on.
You can use dimming resistors if you want to in the side light circuit.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 7/11/06 at 11:40 AM |
|
|
Excellent idea - I have only just finished the wiring of my switches (without the dual brightness for now) and it occurred to me while checking the
lighting circuits out at night, that the brightness of the switches is way too bright for night use - very distracting indeed. They are fine during
the day however.
Presently I have my switches 'commoned' so they all feed from the side lights circuit, with another panel mounted led for a warning light
- not the best solution but hey As you say, one easy way to reduce the brightness would be to insert a resistor in the feed, then use the redundant
switches to bring the individual switch light to the full 12v (or as much voltage as required for the best light level) But that might require a diode
or two to stop feeding the whole bank of switches wouldn't it so maybe individual resistors are the answer.
Surely it isn't neccessary to throw complicated electronics at this problem when we already have a second set of contacts on every switch?
My ideal would be as follows:
LIGHTS OFF
1. 100% brightness with switch on
LIGHTS ON
1. 40% brightness with switch off (fed from sidelights)
2. 80% brightness with switch is on
[Edited on 7-11-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 7/11/06 at 12:12 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by k33ts
quote:
Originally posted by tks
well i'm going to do it different.
Going to hook every switch to a nice 5volts regulator wich will be powered by the light switch.
If the light switch is used then it will get powered by a 5volts xk ohm resistor.
Once used it will supply it self 5volts without the resistor from a 2nd reg.
the regulators will become the start dip etc. etc.
How is the radius of the button?
Or should i make a 3mm ally sheet where in the button will be placed?
in that way the ball could touch it??
and the 3mm sheet can be rounded up to 2,5mm radius right??
is a chamfer also any good??
sorry for the questions
[Edited on 24/5/06 by tks]
you almost sound dissapionted that i havnt got an led sticking out of the switch
your way tobe different you isnt making much sense can you add a picture in focus
Nahh its a supermod i like it very much!
Its just that i only have 3 buttons!
Rear Fog
Alarm
Engine start.
All de rest is on the column..
Will order some ledss if i change my mind
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 7/11/06 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
Shouldn't need diodes as switch has a clean break between N/O to N/C, so no feedback possible.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 7/11/06 at 04:58 PM |
|
|
Yes but it still wouldn't allow dual brightness at night would it? Or am I missing something?
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
