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Author: Subject: Brake Switches
Justo

posted on 18/2/04 at 04:13 PM Reply With Quote
Brake Switches

Hi

Does anyone know where I can buy a switch ( pressure sensor probably) that goes into a brake line to trip a brake light on and off

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Mk-Ninja

posted on 18/2/04 at 04:21 PM Reply With Quote
Try this thread

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=10508





I'm sure I've got one, just don't know where I've put it

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Deckman001

posted on 18/2/04 at 04:24 PM Reply With Quote
Mac#1 sell em

http://www.mac1motorsports.co.uk/

Jason






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Justo

posted on 18/2/04 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
Brake Switches

Thanks

Talked to the guy in Mac 1 very helpful.


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elitewiring

posted on 18/2/04 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
justo,
just a little tip (and this is imo and experience) when deciding where to fit your brake pressure switch, mount it horizontally, not vertically, therefore not allowing air to get trapped at the switch, which would cause you to have to put more pressure on pedal to operate lights (may not even work), note this has happened to me.

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Deckman001

posted on 18/2/04 at 11:27 PM Reply With Quote
Is it ok if we all take note of that ? I'll be fitting mine soon i hope and had'nt thought of that little gem

Many thanks
Jason






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britishtrident

posted on 12/3/04 at 09:48 PM Reply With Quote
If you use a hydraulic operated brake light switch, you might get away with putting it only the front circuit (as per old construction & use law) but I suspect you need two wired in parrallel one on each circuit .
Personally I an using a mechanical operated pull switch.

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Hellfire

posted on 12/3/04 at 10:44 PM Reply With Quote
Brake Light Switch

Our's is hydraulic switched and we've just charged the system. However, I understand the point regarding the airtrap. Now can I run this by you - if the switch triggers at 3MBar (typical pressure) what pressure will the airtrap be in the pressure sender? 3MBar... so unless there is a lot of air (and there shouldn't be) it will still fire. We had excess air in the calipers before we finished removing all air but the switch still fired... and the brake lights triggered. Could it be different pressure senders?

We mounted our sender:



there!

and got this:



Sorted!

[Edited on 12-3-04 by Hellfire]






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elitewiring

posted on 13/3/04 at 08:01 PM Reply With Quote
my pressure switch looks the same as yours, i dont know what pressure is required to operate the switch all i know is that my switch only came on with my foot hard down on the pedal, then we held the pedal down while loosening the pressure switch to release any trapped air, then it all worked without any problem,with only a small amount of pedal pressure.
air at the calipers is very different to air at the switch, the air is compressed, if compressed at the calipers it will still operate the switch, but air at the switch may not operate the switch.
i'm not saying it is wrong to fit the switch vertically, just saying you are less likely to have any problems if mounted horizontally.the choice is down to the individual, i know that most people would like to build there cars right the first time with out any questioon marks!

[Edited on 13/3/04 by elitewiring]

[Edited on 13/3/04 by elitewiring]

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bob

posted on 13/3/04 at 10:56 PM Reply With Quote
Mines working fine,must admit i never gave the air lock at switch a thought. Rescued attachment stop switch.jpg
Rescued attachment stop switch.jpg







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elitewiring

posted on 14/3/04 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
yes, im sure yours does work ok, it is mounted horizontally, so there is unlikely to be an air trap.
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britishtrident

posted on 16/3/04 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
As long as the system is bled so pedal is solid the switch will work -- pressure switches work equally well in gas or liquid.
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britishtrident

posted on 20/3/04 at 07:59 AM Reply With Quote
Just to point out that according to the constructionand use regs brake light switch must operate any brake that works on the FRONT wheels --- putting a hydraulic type switch in the rear circuit of a fore/aft split system dosn't meet this requirement.

Likewise if anybody uses a diagonal split system either 2 hydraulic switches are required or a mechanical pedal operated switch.

In the highly unlikely event of anybody building a Locost with a handbrake operating on the front wheels this would have to operate the brake lights also just as it did on old Commer/Dodge PB vans.

[Edited on 20/3/04 by britishtrident]

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JoelP

posted on 20/3/04 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
BOB!

is this screw you have used a self tapper? Just wondering how to do my p clips... Thanks!


Image deleted by owner








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bob

posted on 20/3/04 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
Yes joel,its a self tapper

I like to use self tappers instead of rivets as sometimes you need to add another P-clip or use hole for an earth.






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JoelP

posted on 20/3/04 at 01:43 PM Reply With Quote
cheers bob, looks like an easy solution to me!






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