Chippy
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 09:48 AM |
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AFR Gauge/LC1 setup??
Hi, anybody into the way of setting up the analog outputs. My gauge works from 0.050V to 1.000V and I am unsure which of the voltages to change in the
IM programer tab to get sensible readings, at the moment it just reads rich all the time. The car has just been on the R/R so mixtures
"should" be good. Any asistance greatly apreciated. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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omega0684
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 10:28 AM |
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i have the same problem with my db gauge, it always reads about 3-4 unit under what it should read
gauge reads 10 AFR is actually 14 for example, im going to try and sort it today.
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omega0684
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 01:30 PM |
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i have been trying to get mine to work for the past hour, i seem to be coming to the same problem that the LM programmer won't perminantly
change the analog output 1 values so that they are the same as analog output 2.
it says in the installation manual that you can connect either analog output 1 or 2 the either the gauge or the ECU. it then goes on to to recommend
that you connect output 1 to the gauge and output 2 to the ecu (which ive done).
the LC-1 gives a 0-5v linear output, so im thinking that you need to calibrate the analog output 1 graph in the LM Programmer to be identical to the
analog output 2 graph (which is the 0-5v linear graph), but when i try to do this it and try to burn the graph to the lc-1 unit it just goes back to
the original narrowband graph (which is the 0.1-1.1v graph)?
am i missing something?
would it be a case of swopping over the analog outputs so that AO-1 goes to the MS & AO-2 goes to the Gauge?
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Chippy
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 01:38 PM |
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omega0684
I had the same problem, the easiest way to fix it is to swop the two connections over, which is what I did, then it's all round the correct way.
It is just changing the analog outputs to suit my AFR gauge that I am having problems with, sure there is somebody on here that has the tech knowledge
to give me some pointers. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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robocog
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 06:49 PM |
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What I would do...
Update the firmware to latest version
Free air calibration
set both outputs to a fixed voltage, and check with a multimeter
do the same step a few times with different voltages - checking it is not giving BS figures
it this step is failing or being random I would suspect the output to be buggered- not unknown on these units by all accounts
If it still won't put out the voltage that you are asking via software (and you are sure that you are committing the changes and its
hardware/software rather than operator error- manual read several times and thoroughly digested?) I would put it all on eBay and buy a JAW kit and get
sloshed on the profits
Regards
Rob
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omega0684
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| posted on 7/8/09 at 08:21 PM |
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fair enough rob, but this morning it was working and now its not all i've done is swop the wires over and then back again!
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