phil4521
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 posted on 27/9/09 at 06:36 PM |
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bummer day.....viento rover V8 engine mount bolts
Wondered why my engine had dropped on the drivers side after a few starts ups- thought I would check levels- drivers side was down and exhasut banging
on the chassis- so slackened engine mount bolts and jacked the sump up carefully with wooden block -it moved up to where it should be- great i thought
so tried to tighten bolts again and threads on both are knacked. I had to open up the engine mount holes as (typical Luego) they didnt line up so
both bolts are taking a lot of load trying to keep the engine tight.Double frustration as I had both helicolied by an engine shop before I put the
engine in as the bolts where lose then- so what now? you can get at the bolts through hole in side panel as I have taken exhaust pipe off but realy
dont want to take whole engine out- anyone can help?
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owelly
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| posted on 27/9/09 at 06:38 PM |
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Is it possible to drill and tap a larger size and loctite some studs in, in place of bolts? Or drill and tap larger and use stepped studs?
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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austin man
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| posted on 27/9/09 at 06:47 PM |
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cant you modify the mount to pick up on some unused bolt holes in the block and fit new helicoils, two bolts only to hold the mount seem minimal
especially for the weight my zetec has 3 or 4 bolts on each mount
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 27/9/09 at 07:05 PM |
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If you have the same engine mounts as mine then this may help..
But you will have to sort new threads out in the block holes - engine out probably...
I found the mounts touched the sump and would not lie true on the mounting holes so I placed a large square washer between the mounts and the engine
to avoid stressing the bolts.
Paul
[Edited on 27/9/09 by Paul (Notts)]
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 27/9/09 at 07:07 PM |
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pic
[Edited on 27/9/09 by Paul (Notts)]
 
Rescued attachment sep06 032.jpg
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simonk
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| posted on 1/10/09 at 09:07 PM |
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Hi Phil
I reckon that with a 90 degree drill and a bit of swearing you could clear out and re-tap the holes in the block in-situ and just go bigger or
re-helicoil. I would certainly try it before pulling the motor out. You need also at least to find out what's happened to the helicoils as they
shouldn't strip out. I'm a buyer of the stud suggestion, but I think that the key thing will be to have the engine mounts out and have
them welded up and re-drilled in the right place so that you don't have to pull them up so tight. Somebody once told me never to use a half inch
ratchet on a Rover block - I use quarter or three eighth and with luck (much more than judgement) haven't stripped anything yet. An old friend
tells the tale of his old Rover P6 that had 35 helicoils in the block by the time he scrapped it......
Cheers
Simon
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/10/09 at 07:08 PM |
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Never had any problems with any of my old P6s stripping threads as Simon points out things may have been over tightened. Like the engine mounts Paul ,
perhaps a bit hard?
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 2/10/09 at 07:24 PM |
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Mel
should I drain the oil before removing the cylinder heads or just keep a cloth handy to wipe the mess up when I remove them?
Paul
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/10/09 at 07:33 PM |
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Don't bother wiping it up, Luego chassis's need all the help they can get to stop them rusting!
There will still be some oil in the heads even if you drain the sump. Drain the coolant before removing the heads but you still may get some in with
the oil .Winter mods time?
[Edited on 3/10/09 by rusty nuts]
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kenton
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| posted on 3/10/09 at 08:04 AM |
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May i sugest you make an extra support that goes from one bracket to the other under the engine. Both darrens and i have done this.
The way the luego brackets are designed they act as a lever pulling on the bolts. In the rover an extra bolt hole was used about 4" above the
others.
kenton
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wilkingj
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| posted on 3/10/09 at 10:17 AM |
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I made up some brackets like the Luego ones. After about a year they had sagged and caused about a 1" drop in the engine position (Exhaust header
pipes knocked on the hole in the side of the body).
It was my fault as I only used 3mm steel, and should have used 4 or 5mm.
So I looked at them and also decided I didnt like the way they looked ie the forces on the bolt heads.
In the garage I had these mountings which I think are P6 mounting brackets.
With the usual Land Rover rubber mountings fitted they have worked well for the last two year with no sagging problems.
The sloping brackets I made myself, and they are nice and strong as well.
There are a lot of torquey turning forces at work when you are applying plenty of right foot with a V8, even where there are only 200 horses under the
bonnet
There are also some later SDI brackets that use both the bottom holes, AND the top mounting point. However these have different mounting rubbers and
are much bigger brackets. I would think about using these if you have more power available, as any extra fixing has to be a bonus. ie less stress on
the block with multiple mounting points.
This is just to give you an idea of what else is out there and there are several different ways of mounting the RV8.
LH side
 
RV8 Engine mounting 3
RH side showing unused second bolt(holding the clutch pipe bracket)
 
RV8 Engine mounting 2
RH side again.
 
RV8 Engine mounting 1
Hope this is of some help.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 3/10/09 at 11:47 AM |
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Two years of hard driving and not had any problems with the mounts or mounting plates, BUT have noticed today that the rubbers are starting to look
iffy so will replace them along with the other winter mods.
I think the two engine stays connected to the bulk heads help a lot( via bushes). They stop allmost any movement of the engine. And having the
alternator down low also helps to reduce movement.
Paul
Geff - like the mounts.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 3/10/09 at 10:55 PM |
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I have the "head steadies" (Head to top chassis rails on both sides).
They stop a lot of the rocking movements due to torque reactions, and IMHO are a necessity.
I got my round engine mounts 3 years ago, and they have very minor marks on them,
as seen in the piccy that I took today. They came from Paddockspares.com (Landy parts people),
althought they are available at most places and relatively cheaply too.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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phil4521
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| posted on 15/10/09 at 05:17 PM |
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Thanks Guys I have bought a metre of studding (8.8 steel- the helicoil they put in last time is M10 which was handy) and will see if I can get
these to tighten this weekend. If not its a new oversize helicoil- I think I can get to it with the right drill.
I think its combo of having to drill the mounts massivley bigger to get the holes to line up and and tightening v hard to get grip on penny washers
that hide the oversized holes thats done it. I will get the mounts welded up and redrill as well.
Wish me luck, I will keep you updated. If only life were simpler!
Phil.
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