russbost
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 02:27 PM |
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ZZR 1400 speedo sensor/ecu issue
Someone posted on here fairly recently regarding a problem when not using the standard clocks with the ZZR1400 that the ecu goes into a rev limitting
mode if it can't see a speedo signal.
Can't find the posts, can anyone give me a link or further info???
Russ
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Andy B
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 03:39 PM |
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Hi again Russ
search for posts by paublo999 - or send him a u2u, I know he has dealt with this issue, good to talk with you today
best regards
Andy
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minitici
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 04:39 PM |
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Hi Russ,
Some more info on how paul solved the problem on this blog
http://ninjabogey.wordpress.com/
I fitted a ZX14 to a Radical which used the standard speed sensor reading the lobes on the standard sprocket nut. Just needed to run the feed which
normally comes from the pink wire on the clocks.
Paul was a bit worried about over voltage on his sensor (not sure if he used the ZX14 one or one from a different bike) so he fitted a voltage
regulator to the feed.
Doug.
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russbost
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 06:19 PM |
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Doug. dunno if I'm being a bit dense, but can't see any info re the engine on his blog.
I have the standard speed sensor as I'll be running a chain diff. The sensor has 3 wires yellow/black (earth I believe) yellow/blue & pink -
are you saying run a feed to the pink wire & should that be a 5V feed?
Cheers Russ
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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minitici
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| posted on 11/3/10 at 07:06 PM |
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Hi Russ - it was on page 2
http://ninjabogey.wordpress.com/2009/05/05/full-revs-no-way-i-hear-you-say-speed-sensor-solution-as-promised/
extract from Paul's blog
Input Voltage at Sensor About DC 9 ~ 11 V at Ignition Switch ON
Output Voltage at Sensor About DC 0.05 ~ 0.09 V or DC 4.5 ~ 4.9 at Ignition Switch ON and 0 km/h
Having wired up a speed sensor from Malc at Yorkshire Engines, I didn’t have any success. The supplied Suzuki unit outputted the wrong voltage and on
testing it I managed to kill it after only 5 minutes. As a result I had a dead speed sensor. So on to a Kawasaki unit. This proved to be more tricky
as the ZX12 engine Malc had doesn’t share the same type of unit. Fortunately Malc managed to get me one off of a ZX10 for me. I decided that I should
protect the unit by regulating the voltage to it. At full revs the “battery” voltage could be over 14volts. So I sourced the relevant component from
Maplin (Link) to regulate it to 9v which is close enough and wired up a simple circuit as follows to replace the bike circuit which relies on the bike
clocks for the live feed (Kawasaki call the clocks the “Meter Unit”)
Switched live (11-14v) into a voltage regulator then connected it to the speed sensor live feed (replaces Pink wire)
Earthed directly to the engine casing near to the sensor location (replacing Black/Yellow wire)
Blue/Yellow – ran a wire back to the ecu to meet the Blue/Yellow)
To replace the sprocket bolts that the sensor would usually detect, I ordered a set of strong earth magnets from Ebay (as the ones from ETB – Digidash
chaps regularly decide to leave the car) to attach to the gearbox output flange and fabricated a simple bracket to hold the sensor. The ecu expects a
square wave signal from 4.8v (on detecting an earth through a magnet or bolt head) and then dropping to trace voltage (0.09 etc) when not adjacent to
a bolt. The ecu needs 4 pulses per rotation of the engine so four magnet were glued in place adjacent to the flange bolts. One quick suggestion – the
sensor only picks up when approximately 1mm away from the bolt, so very close tolerance. Also it is the cut out section of the cylinder that detects
the signal and not any other part of the sensor.
[Edited on 11/3/10 by minitici]
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paublo999
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| posted on 12/3/10 at 12:18 PM |
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Replied to the U2U but Doug is spot on 
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/ninjabogeyracing
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