JoelP
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 04:20 PM |
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small alternator
looking at a picture of the charade alternator, it seems to have the wrong pulley on it to use with a pinto. Is this correct? is the 2cv one the right
V-pulley? I need to find a small one soon cos my old alternator nearly cut the steering column in two the other day...
is it a case of visiting the local scrappies or does anyone know a place on-line that sells the right one?
thanks.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 05:12 PM |
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i got a daihatsu one,same as befford rasca i think,earlier ones had v belt,ive got a 2cv alt if you cant find one but it needs a reg,about £17
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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JoelP
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 05:24 PM |
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cheers john, does the diehatsuit one need a regulator or is it built in? might ring up a local place and see what they have. Damn, thats tommorow
now...
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 06:36 PM |
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daihatsu has one built in wiring is slightly different to standard pinto one looks like pic below.
ps they cost £££ new cheaper to get one from scrappy and have it reconditioned if it needs it.
[Edited on 24/5/04 by givemethebighammer]
[Edited on 24/5/04 by givemethebighammer]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 06:57 PM |
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we have seen a lot come up at auto jumbles,brand new for a couple o squid,worth a look????
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Mr G
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 06:59 PM |
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I've been trying to figure out how to get ours working!
Why the hell would the alternator need an ignition feed? I've connected up the charge light via our astra lcd clocks and nothing. I then
thought it may be because of the type of bulb (as they are lcd) and it not being 3w etc
I wired up a standard bulb and still no warning light.
I've given it a feed from the ignition as well in the past to the other terminal but it did'nt seem to make any difference!
I'll go back and have another go but I'm sure i've tried all the options... bah!
Cheers
G
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MK7
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 07:47 PM |
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I've got a Diahatsu alternator and I'm convinced it's not charging (not too difficult to work out seeing as the battery keeps going
flat)...
In the diagram you show 2 spade connectors 'L' and 'R', my wiring loom only has 2 wires, one is the output so which terminal
should the other one go to?
[Edited on 24/5/04 by MK7]
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CairB
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 09:06 PM |
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MK7,
That diagram looks familiar, it's the one I used for my Mitsubishi unit, part number in photos.
I think that you'll be missing the main ignition feed. I had to add it.
I convinced myself that the alternator was generating by having it live electrically and spinning it with a drill. If you feel a torque reaction then
its promising, or its seized
Cheers,
Colin
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 09:32 PM |
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the feild windings are an electro magnet,therefore they require power to get them excited if you earth the casing and apply power to the 2 small
terminal as shown in the diagram the pulley should be very hard to turn.
you do need the right wattage bulb to make it work as well
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 10:14 PM |
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terminals may be labeled as IG (R in pic above) and L (L in pic above).
Conrod any idea on the wattage of the bulb required ?
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MK7
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 10:32 PM |
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Is there any reason why I shouldn't just connect the B+ terminal to the IG/R terminal?
I assume that the feed to the IG/R terminal is to excite the field windings. What would be the concern about providing the IG/R terminal with a
permanent 12V feed rather than a switched feed from the ignition switch? Will the field windings be drawing current all the time?
At this time I've got a thick wire that runs from the B+ terminal to the battery +ve terminal and a thinner wire to the L terminal. The charging
light goes out when I start the engine but, as reported above, the battery isn't charging.
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CairB
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| posted on 24/5/04 at 11:21 PM |
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MK7,
I've a feeling that there may be a drain on that feed that you only want when the engine is running with a direct connection to the battery.
Measure the current on that feed without the engine running to confirm. Try the torque reaction test, with mine the torque was significant to the hand
(usual safety warnings apply). If your not getting the reaction mechanically then you won't be charging electrically. You don't get owt
for nowt. Check the integrity of electrical connections, the lamp will go out when the back emf balances, doesn't mean that sufficient surplus
current relative to load is available to charge though. There's always the possibility that the alternator is failing in its duties.
Oh and good luck with the SVA. Make sure your batteries up for it
Cheers,
Colin
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 25/5/04 at 07:25 AM |
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ign bulb is usually around 3-5 watts,mk7 dont leave the other wire permantly live as it will flatten yr battery
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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MK7
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| posted on 25/5/04 at 08:30 AM |
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Thanks guys,
Looks like another modification to the MK supplied wiring harness is called for.
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lsdweb
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| posted on 25/5/04 at 08:50 PM |
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Guys
I got my Daihatsu alternator - brand new / recon for around the £70 mark from a local motor factor - it came from a company whose name I can't
remember but the telephone number is 0161 7467676. They fitted a suitable pulley for my Zetec .
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