striker-4age
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| posted on 18/6/12 at 07:26 PM |
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fia master cut out switch help !!!!!
hi everyone 
can i please ask for help as to why my fia master cut out switch does not cut the engine out ? it seems to kill the ignition power but the engine
still runs on  is this the alternator keeping it going ?
please help
striker-4age
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Werner Van Loock
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| posted on 18/6/12 at 08:35 PM |
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Is it actually a FIA master switch ie. with resistor and extra connections at the bottom?
If yes, how have you wired it?
If no, then it is not a FIA master cut out switch but just a battery isolation switch in which case yes it is possible that the alternator keeps it
running without battery.
http://www.clubstylus.be
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owelly
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| posted on 18/6/12 at 09:17 PM |
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I used a chunky relay in the wire from kill switch to alternator that open
ed/switched off, when the kill switch/ignition was operated. My kill switch was a non-FIA device.
[Edited on 18/6/12 by owelly]
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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striker-4age
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| posted on 18/6/12 at 09:49 PM |
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will check the wiring and post up tomorrow
many thanks
striker-4age
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striker-4age
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| posted on 19/6/12 at 09:23 PM |
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hi again
ok looked at wiring to switch tonight
battery + across the large terminals
terminals 1 : 12v via ignition then via resistor then to ground.
terminals 2 : 12v feed to emerald ecu feed through.
so when i turn the key the ignition light comes on where it has lost the power but the engine keeps running is this down to a damaged resistor as
it looks a bit brown ???
many thanks
striker-4age
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ShaunB
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| posted on 20/6/12 at 12:41 PM |
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Seen this thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=108905 ?
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striker-4age
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| posted on 20/6/12 at 09:27 PM |
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hi mate
yes i have seen that
i must be going mad but do i need to take the supply for 1 from the master cut out switch battery termnial ? mine has a 12v supply but i cant see
where it come from i think from the ingition switch....................should this still work ? just that my engine keeps on running ????
many thanks
striker-4age
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ShaunB
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| posted on 20/6/12 at 10:07 PM |
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Check the resistor it should be ~3 ohm, if you don't have a multimeter then simply wire it in series with a 5 watt bulb and a 12v supply, the
bulb should light just not quite as bright as normal.
The big terminals are connected to the battery +ve and the permanent +ve feed for the car which will include the output from the alternator as
it's also the charging path. It is this terminal which also feeds one of the terminal 1's, the other being the resistor to earth. With
the master switch 'on' the 1 terminals are not connected, but when you turn the master switch it disconnects the alternator from the
battery and joins the 1 terminals which allows the alternator output to dissipate away to earth through the resistor - if the alternator output is not
grounded in this way it can keep powering the +12v circuits on the car, which can keep the engine running, which keeps turning the alternator...
As the diagram shows the 2 terminals are the power circuit to the coil, or the ECU in your case - connected when the switch is 'on',
disconnected when 'off'.
So to answer your specific question, the 1 terminal is connected to the cut out switch big terminal but not the one that is directly connected to the
battery +ve, the other one which is the +12v going off to the rest of the car. The other 1 terminal is one side of the resistor, with the other side
of the resistor connected to earth.
Hope you get it sorted!
Shaun.
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striker-4age
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 05:44 PM |
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shaunb...................topman !!!!!!
i will be out in the man cave 2nite..................so hope i get it sorted, will let you know if i do
many thanks
striker-4age
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striker-4age
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 09:23 PM |
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eeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the bloody thing still runs on ???
the wire to 1 was already taken from the battery lead to the starter, also changed the resistor as it was so brown ???
anyone ? i did buzz the switch through with my multimeter and it is making a contact for 1 when it is in the off postion ?
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ShaunB
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 09:57 PM |
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Can you buzz the big terminals and 2 connections on the kill switch to make sure they are acting as expected (connected when switch 'on',
disconnected when 'killed' ? Also measure the voltage on the supply to the ECU to check that it drops to 0v when you turn the kill switch
off - try it with the engine off and then running. What happens if the ECU loses power, can the car still run in limp home mode? Are you using a
Ford EDIS module, as I know these will continue to give a 10' advance even if no ECU connected? What is powering the coils?
Shaun.
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ShaunB
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| posted on 21/6/12 at 10:04 PM |
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Just noticed earlier that you said that the ignition light comes on when you 'kill' it. So how is that getting power? It works by being
given an igntion switched +12v and the other side earths out through the alternator, but when the alternator starts generating it also outputs +12v
and the light goes out. If you can get to the terminals of that light easily try to work out whether the alternator or the ignition supply is
providing the 12v.
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striker-4age
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| posted on 22/6/12 at 02:15 PM |
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hi shaun
will get out there 2nite again, the ecu is an emerald m3d. it is just werid i did not fit the switch so i will have to check the ecu power cut out,
and also check what ou said
will let you know if this fookin thing ever gets sorted
many thanks
striker-4age
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Macbeast
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| posted on 22/6/12 at 04:43 PM |
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Is it a diesel ?
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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striker-4age
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| posted on 22/6/12 at 07:04 PM |
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no mate petrol 4age
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ShaunB
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| posted on 22/6/12 at 09:18 PM |
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Has this switch ever worked? I presume that it does stop with the ignition key? The '2' terminals effectively emulate the ignition key
and remove power to the coils, the '1' terminals and big terminals just safely dump any alternator output and isolate the battery.
Shaun.
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striker-4age
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 08:29 AM |
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hi shaun
did not manage to have a look last night went out in it for a blast
yes was just thinking of changing the cut of on the terminals 2 from the ecu to a loop from the ignition switch this will work ok wont it ? what or
how do i know what wire to loop throught the switch ?
shaun i see you are just up the road from me in ipswich what car you got m8 ?
thanks again
striker-4age
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ShaunB
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| posted on 23/6/12 at 10:38 PM |
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I don't see why that wouldn't work, the ECU is probably ignition fed anyway.
My car is the one in my avatar, 750MC Locost racer. 1300 xflow with coil and distributor, none of this fancy ECU stuff
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