James
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posted on 10/9/13 at 09:52 AM |
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New garage door recomendations
Greetings all,
Finally managed to buy myself a house with a garage!
Build your own sports car for £400,000 and race it! Thanks Ron!
The garage door has twin wooden doors but the bottom 24" or so are completely rotten so I'm looking for replacement. Not sure on best type
of door to go for though.
- Parents had a metal 'up and over' type which is good but the open door blocks the light from the ceiling lights.
- MiL has a side sliding wooden door. Great but you loose a doors width of shelf space along the walls.
- An elderly neighbour has a roller shutter door which rolls up into a box above the opening. Its electric too and cost 1200ish installed. The roller
runs down inside 2 'u' channels which I guess is reasonably secure. No idea how difficult it is to 'force' open.
I like the idea of the roller- maybe the electric opening isnt 100% necessary!
Any recommendations on other/better'options.?
Thanks,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Litemoth
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posted on 10/9/13 at 10:14 AM |
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I went for a sectional garage door in the end..
This kinda thing..
LINKY
[Edited on 10/9/13 by Litemoth]
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rallyingden
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posted on 10/9/13 at 11:05 AM |
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Problem with up and over OR roller shutter is your opening whole width, unless you have a personal access door too.
Sideways sliding does not need to cut off shelf space, simply put a false wall in front and let it slide into cavity.
RD
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daveb666
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posted on 10/9/13 at 11:19 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Litemoth
I went for a sectional garage door in the end..
This kinda thing..
LINKY
[Edited on 10/9/13 by Litemoth]
I don't like those myself;whilst I can appreciate some small drives need that extra foot of parking space, my car is parked tight up to the up
and over metal garage door I have as extra security.
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mark chandler
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posted on 10/9/13 at 11:20 AM |
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I have an up and over, hate it.
My father has an electric roller door, he loves it.
When pennies permit mine will be replaced, they also cut down on drafts, I have two methods of access.
[Edited on 10/9/13 by mark chandler]
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ashg
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posted on 10/9/13 at 11:45 AM |
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or crazy idea. replace the wooden doors for.......................................... wooden doors :-) they only rotted at the bottom because the
previous owner failed to paint them.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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mcerd1
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posted on 10/9/13 at 12:11 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by ashg
or crazy idea. replace the wooden doors for.......................................... wooden doors :-) they only rotted at the bottom because the
previous owner failed to paint them.
or build yourself some solid metal doors and skin them with a little timber to make them look nice
the frames of mine are made from 50x50x4 box section, with a 1/3 - 2/3 split - the big one shuts first and is pinned into the concrete at the bottom
and rafter at the top with big steel pins on the inside, the wee one then shuts against the big one and is pinned and locked to it
-
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iank
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posted on 10/9/13 at 12:22 PM |
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Previous house had an up-and over you lose loads of space and when the cables break it's a real pain.
Much prefer the current roller door (though it came with the new house - I wouldn't have bought an electric one)
I'd go with the regular opening doors (or the steel ones as mcerd1 has) for a single garage. For a double it's roller all the way for
me.
[Edited on 10/9/13 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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nick205
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posted on 10/9/13 at 12:32 PM |
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I'm looking to replace my old sectional door with a manual roller door. Not a massive cost difference from what I've seen and I really
like the idea of being able to use the space where the sectional door mechanism is.
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 10/9/13 at 12:54 PM |
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I got rid of my broken up and over door and made some wooded ones, tanalised 2x4 with marine ply fillers. The ggreat advantage is that when they are
open, you can make a cover which clips onto to extend your working area by 3 feet, just roll the seven back and you have room to use the vice etc
without getting the car wet
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Smoking Frog
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posted on 10/9/13 at 02:44 PM |
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Similar to what's already been suggested a 'framed, ledged and braced' door made from inch square tubing with T&G boarding tek
screwed to the frame or screwed from the inside if the boards are a decent thickness. Construction would be quick and cost low.
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James
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posted on 10/9/13 at 05:04 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by ashg
or crazy idea. replace the wooden doors for.......................................... wooden doors :-) they only rotted at the bottom because the
previous owner failed to paint them.
Actually, mainly i think, because there's a garden tap inside the garage that's leaking and the doors have sat in a puddle for years!
But then the previous owner was 94 so I guess she found plumbing harder!
really like the idea of the electric roller doors (good from the kit car and gf's motobike ) but actually, Mark's idea with using the 2
openers as supports for roof extension is great too. Further thought needed I guess!
Thanks all!
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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stevebubs
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posted on 10/9/13 at 06:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by James
quote: Originally posted by ashg
or crazy idea. replace the wooden doors for.......................................... wooden doors :-) they only rotted at the bottom because the
previous owner failed to paint them.
Actually, mainly i think, because there's a garden tap inside the garage that's leaking and the doors have sat in a puddle for years!
But then the previous owner was 94 so I guess she found plumbing harder!
really like the idea of the electric roller doors (good from the kit car and gf's motobike ) but actually, Mark's idea with using the 2
openers as supports for roof extension is great too. Further thought needed I guess!
Thanks all!
James
James,
I've seen the electric roller doors for IRO #500 DIY....have a hunt around...
(on my list to do, also as I *hate* my up and ove). Hadn't thought about replacing it with traditional wooden, though...)
[Edited on 10/9/13 by stevebubs]
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DIY Si
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posted on 10/9/13 at 06:53 PM |
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My insulated electric roller door cost me £550 or so delivered as it was ex-showroom. Otherwise, it''s perfect. Daft free, easy to fit,
easier with two people, and I can open it with a push of a button which is nice. Mine came from
here. Being ex-stock/clearance you may have to wait to find what you need though.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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stevebubs
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posted on 10/9/13 at 07:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by DIY Si
My insulated electric roller door cost me £550 or so delivered as it was ex-showroom. Otherwise, it''s perfect. Daft free, easy to fit,
easier with two people, and I can open it with a push of a button which is nice. Mine came from
here. Being ex-stock/clearance you may have to wait to find what you need though.
Go to deals of the week...
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Peteff
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posted on 11/9/13 at 08:26 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mark Allanson
I got rid of my broken up and over door and made some wooded ones, tanalised 2x4 with marine ply fillers. The ggreat advantage is that when they are
open, you can make a cover which clips onto to extend your working area by 3 feet, just roll the seven back and you have room to use the vice etc
without getting the car wet
I throw a tarp over the top and use the space same as this. A friend has electric roller shutter doors and they deadlock into the sides but he was
broken into by scrotes using a jack to lift the bottom of the door and causing a lot of damage in the process.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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nick205
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posted on 5/10/16 at 07:42 AM |
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Not sure what you did in the end, but I fitted a single skin manual metal up n' over door to mine. I forget the total cost with fitting and
disposal of the old sectional, but me being me it wouldn't have been much or I wouldn't have done it. Works well, wife and kids can use
it and it has a good lock mechanism too. Takes up less space inside than the sectional door did and forms a small canopy to the outside when open -
keeps the rain out when I'm in there.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 5/10/16 at 01:52 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by DIY Si
My insulated electric roller door cost me £550 or so delivered as it was ex-showroom. Otherwise, it''s perfect. Daft free, easy to
fit, easier with two people, and I can open it with a push of a button which is nice. Mine came from
here. Being ex-stock/clearance you may have to wait to find what you need though.
Daft free? Does that mean it's suitable for any idiot?
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