daveb666
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 07:11 AM |
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Alternator Problems
My kit car used to have a zetec in it. Used all the standard loom from the zetec and worked fine.
My starter motor broke one day and I ran the car with it disconnected, breaking the alternator.
The regulator was replaced and off we go again.
Hundreds of miles later and when driving I get a big misfire and the battery light is on. Take the alternator to the electrics place and they say it
has serious problems, a new alternator was therefore bought.
Then the zetec was taken out and replaced with a ca18det engine and a new alternator bought.
Within the first couple of hundred miles the battery light is on. I take the alternator to the electric place and because a couple of the
'case' bolts were missing they refuse to warrant a replacement. (I assume they rattled loose).
I buy another of the new alternators and, just 35 miles later, the battery light is on and its not charging again.
Any idea what's up, I can't be this unlucky with alternators?
The new one has 3 wires - large mains which goes to the starter, battery light and 12v 'exciter' wire. The latter is T-d off my fuel pump
rather than being its own feed so I'm wondering whether that's what the issue is?
I welcome any thoughts from eletrci gurus :-)
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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CosKev3
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 08:21 AM |
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Have you asked them is it the same part in the alt that has failed on all of them?
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beaver34
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 08:43 AM |
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seems odd, take it back and see what they say is wrong with it?
where are you buying them from?
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daveb666
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 09:09 AM |
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The first alternator they said it wasn't the regulator so they just swopped it out. (That was on the zetec).
The last alternator was all black inside, it only had one of the grounding screws left (it should have 3 but only had 1 left in). I'm assuming
the others rattled loose. Because the screws were missing the guy said the grounding plate would have been rattling and therefore the alternator would
have shorted out.
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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CosKev3
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 09:19 AM |
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Are the pulley sizes standard?Possibly overspeeding?
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daveb666
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 09:21 AM |
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I replaced the pulley with a smaller one as the original alternator was a v pulley.. Think that'll be it?
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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beaver34
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 09:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
I replaced the pulley with a smaller one as the original alternator was a v pulley.. Think that'll be it?
i dont think so, you can get the same alternator with a 6 rib pulley like i use on mine
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CosKev3
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 10:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
I replaced the pulley with a smaller one as the original alternator was a v pulley.. Think that'll be it?
Could be.
A quick Google:
To calculate the alternator shaft speed, which should be no more than 16,000 RPM do the following:
Alternator pulley size (ie 2.5"
Crankshaft Pulley Size (ie 5"
Ratio is 2:1 (5 / 2.5 = 2)
Max engine Speed = 5800 RPM
Multiply Max RPM x Ratio (5800 x 2) = 11,600 shaft RPM Max
Idle RPM = 1000
Multiply Idle RPM x Ratio (1000 x 2) = 2000 shaft RPM @ Idle
An alternator needs 1800-2000 at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm, and will start to fail at 16,000 RPM.
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SPYDER
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 11:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
...12v 'exciter' wire. The latter is T-d off my fuel pump rather than being its own feed...
I would connect this direct to the battery + terminal.
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HowardB
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 11:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SPYDER
quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
...12v 'exciter' wire. The latter is T-d off my fuel pump rather than being its own feed...
I would connect this direct to the battery + terminal.
+1
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again  and goes zoom)
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daveb666
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 04:29 PM |
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I'll swop it tonight, but why would that cause a problem?
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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daveb666
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 08:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
I replaced the pulley with a smaller one as the original alternator was a v pulley.. Think that'll be it?
Could be.
A quick Google:
To calculate the alternator shaft speed, which should be no more than 16,000 RPM do the following:
Alternator pulley size (ie 2.5"
Crankshaft Pulley Size (ie 5"
Ratio is 2:1 (5 / 2.5 = 2)
Max engine Speed = 5800 RPM
Multiply Max RPM x Ratio (5800 x 2) = 11,600 shaft RPM Max
Idle RPM = 1000
Multiply Idle RPM x Ratio (1000 x 2) = 2000 shaft RPM @ Idle
An alternator needs 1800-2000 at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm, and will start to fail at 16,000 RPM.
Just measured - my pulley ratio is 3:1, oops!!
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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beaver34
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| posted on 20/11/14 at 09:49 PM |
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Is yours a 6 rib belt dave? If so I might want a a larger pulley too if you want to have a couple made? I'll look into it
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