birdii
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| posted on 28/11/17 at 09:39 AM |
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Battery charge/ignition light wiring with external voltage reg
Hi,
I'm having some trouble thinking of a way to connect my bright6 light module to my alternator/regulator arrangement.
The bright6 battery light illuminates at 0 volts. The instructions show that it should be connected to the Df connector on the alternator.
The problem is that I have used a 2CV alternator and regulator (my dad was into 2CV's and had a pile of spares so this was locost and compact!).
The 2cv alternator only has 2 connections, battery and exciter. The regulator has 3 connections, earth, ignition live and exciter to the
alternator.
I incorrectly connected the bright 6 to the exciter so when the ignition was on the light was off, at idle the light was off and with a few revs, the
battery settles to 14v and the light starts blinking. I see now that this is exactly what should happen but obviously not what you want from a battery
light.
So I cant see a way that I connect this to make it work properly. I wondered if someone with more electrical knowledge than me could think up a little
circuit to fix the problem?
I remember now that the 2CV's didn't have a light either, dad fitted a little led indicator which changed colour with under or over volts
made by brightspark, I might do the same as its a neat little setup but would still like some function for the light in the bright 6.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated as thinking about it is hurting my head!
Thanks
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CosKev3
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| posted on 28/11/17 at 11:20 AM |
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Can't help solve it the way you want to,but bike engines using a stator and regulater/rectifier don't have a charge/battery light either
so I've fitted a small digital volt gauge to my car.
This came around after breaking down a couple of years ago after my charging system stopped working,the first warning I got was the car misfiring then
cutting out totally half a mile further up the road with a totally flat battery!
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birdii
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| posted on 29/11/17 at 07:57 AM |
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I had a similar breakdown on my Triumph Daytona, engine died from flat battery and then lots of smoke from under the seat as the reg or rectifier
burnt out!
Think ive found a solution now that will do what I want. There is a company making voltage detection units and lamps for classics which have a few
options:
Classic Charge Warning Lights
If I use the unit for an existing battery light it almost does what I need but the output is a switched earth for light on, I can combine this with a
micro 5 pin relay to get a switched live for light off. A little over complicated but it keeps everything on the dash looking the way it should.
Dan
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 29/11/17 at 08:37 AM |
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How have you wired the other light connection? It should have 12v from the ignition so that when there is 12v from the alternator there is then 0v
potential difference across the bulb and it goes out.
Keith
Aviemore
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birdii
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| posted on 29/11/17 at 08:53 AM |
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There isn’t a connection on the alternator to do this, it only has the main battery cable and an exciter. If I connect to the main battery cable the
light will always be off.
The problem is because if it being from a car that didn’t have a light.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 29/11/17 at 09:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by birdii
I had a similar breakdown on my Triumph Daytona, engine died from flat battery and then lots of smoke from under the seat as the reg or rectifier
burnt out!
Think ive found a solution now that will do what I want. There is a company making voltage detection units and lamps for classics which have a few
options:
Classic Charge Warning Lights
If I use the unit for an existing battery light it almost does what I need but the output is a switched earth for light on, I can combine this with a
micro 5 pin relay to get a switched live for light off. A little over complicated but it keeps everything on the dash looking the way it should.
Dan
They look good, and cheap! 
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