davoloco
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 08:27 PM |
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Focus loom
I'm looking to fit a zetec blacktop. I"ve seen some really helpful guides out there, but the looms all seem to refer to a c2513
intermediary connector.
On the loom I rescued, I don't seem to have this connector. I imagine it's because I've taken it from a focus rather than a mondeo.
Could someone confirm my suspicions.
If that is the case, does anyone know of the pinout guide for a focus? Or would I just have to trace them from the ECU?
If it is an ECU plug trace job, then I can see what looks like a bolt holding the ECU plug in place. I assume I'd have to grind through that to
pull the plug off the connector in order to trace the pins to wires?
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pmc_3
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 08:34 PM |
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Have look at this thread, it lists the pin outs for the 104 pin one and further in to the thread there is the 60 pin one as well.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=179921&
amp;page=1
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 08:47 PM |
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As above. It’s all there but it takes some digging through.
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davoloco
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 08:50 PM |
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Thank you for the link. In fact, I've been studying that guide in depth!
But, you'll notice it keep referring to that C2513 connector; which I don't think I have. Sure, I can possible disconnect the plug from
the ECU, but I was rather hoping someone would have done some work on a focus loom using the connect that I conveniently have in place (that looks
dissimilar to the C2513 connector)
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 08:56 PM |
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I started doing a guide for a firm to put it into a small production car. The idea was just to wire the one plug and the rest would plug in.
I ended up just cutting and pasting it across and then couldn’t edit it. In a 7 style car you end up chopping it about to get it to fit better so that
plug becomes irrelevant. So I never developed it.
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davoloco
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 09:10 PM |
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Thank you. Its a very helpful post. I think what I need to do is cut the bolt that holds the plug to the ecu. That will then give me the plug to work
out the wires as per the guide. I'm not sure if the wires are the same colours as per the guide, but I guess once the plug is exposed I can
trace the wires and work out where they go on the loom and wire up as per the guide.
Tell me if I'm going in the wrong direction here!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 09:14 PM |
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Do you mean cut the security shear bolt of the shield ?
Then yes but go steady.
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davoloco
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| posted on 12/4/21 at 09:18 PM |
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Yup - that's what I presume I had to cut. Planning on going straight through the middle with either and angle grinder or a Dremel
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davoloco
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 08:55 AM |
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Result - cut the bolt off without seeming to damage anything.
There is a secondary bolt through the centre of the plug which I can't seem to remove which would help me see the connections, but didn't
want to break it.
I can see the wires now and a rough position and they seem to match up perfectly to shorty's post here:
http://forums.haynes.co.uk/showthread.php?t=12571&page=2
I feel like I can make progress!
If there is an easy way to remove that centre bolt let me know - just didn't want to break anything. If you turn it clockwise it gets tight
again, if you turn it anti clockwise it gets tight again.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 11:07 AM |
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Its a standard m6 thread with a 10mm head. There is a brass insert in the ecu.
It's probably not been undone in twenty years.
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davoloco
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 11:17 AM |
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OK thanks. I was worried it was a security feature and if I tried it would break the eco or something. Getting the plug out of the ECU should make
tracing the wire a lot easier. I've a wire sounder tracer which if used with a good contact makes the job easier.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/4/21 at 12:58 PM |
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You will break thre locking tabs if you just try to pull them out or even just snap the wire of the pin.
Once you take the plug of. You need to remove the red cover so you can get at the pins or and the tabs
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davoloco
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| posted on 16/4/21 at 10:49 PM |
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Thank you. No intentions to remove the pins. Removing the plug from the ecu was enough for me to get a multimeter on each pin and label up where each
went. Which I did! There’s some pins that are obvious that need to be connected, but there are a lot of others that don’t seem so obviously required.
I’m presuming not all of them are required? I’m using shorty’s 60 pin focus pin out.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 17/4/21 at 12:20 PM |
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Some things you can live with out. eg anything Ac. Some things you can live with out but will give a code. Eg Canister purge.
These don't appear to peg the engine back as the ecu pre dates limp home mode and can bus.
Not a lot of testing has been done on this. People use it as a gate way to getting it running and then tuning.
Some things you you don't want to live with out. eg O2 sensor for closed loop fuel trims.
Having used my own guide to do a black top loom this week I wish I could go back an edit it.
The silvertop and st170 pin outs are better.
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davoloco
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 09:21 PM |
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This is all really helpful thanks.
I'm trying to understand a combination of your post here:
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=199233
and Shorty's 60 pinout guide here:
http://forums.haynes.co.uk/showthread.php?t=12571&page=2
Shorty's pinouts seem identical to my blacktop 2l focus donor, but your guide has some better detail regarding connecting up the OBD, PATS etc.
The are identical pinouts with a couple of differences.
On your guide you call DLC connecting to pin 36. On shorty's pinout pin 36 is empty. Looking at my plug pin 36 is also empty.
The other few that I have mismatches on our:
37)—Purple/yellow—Switched 12v. 37-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
Is this the same thing?
52)—Black/blue—Instrument cluster Mil. 52-Black/green-Ignition aux circuits relay
Same thing different name? ultimately power to the instruments on both?
57)—Purple/yellow—switched 12v. 57-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
Same as 37? Am I presuming this is a 12v switch supply for the engine? Or is it 12V given out trigger for the engine?
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davoloco
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 09:22 PM |
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1)—Orange—12v perm live for ecu Memory. shorty- 1-Red-Battery
2)—Black—Knock sensor. 2--
3)—White/blue—Vss speed sensor plug pin 2. 3-White/blue-Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
4)--White/black—Tacho output. 4-White/purple-Audio/cruise/trip
5)--White/green—Immobilizer aerial (Pats). 5-White/green-Immobiliser control module
6)—Black/blue—Ac high pressure switch. 6-White/red-Air con
7)—Black—Engine coolant temperature sensor (Ect). 7-White/purple-Cylinder head temp (CHT)
8)—Purple/black—Fuel pump monitor. 8-Green/black-Fuel pump relay
9)—Brown/blue—Mass air flow meter (Maf). 9-Purple/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
10)—Purple/blue—Ac. 10-Green/yellow-Air con
11)—Black/orange—Canister purge valve. 11--
12)—Black—Injector 1. 12-Black/white-Injector 1
13)—Black/blue—Engine fan relay. 13-Black/blue-Engine coolant blower motor relay 1
14)—Black—Injector 4. 14-Black/orange-Injector 4
15)—Black—Injector 2. 15-Black/yellow-Injector 2
16)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth. 16-Black/yellow-Earth
17)—White—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 13. 17-Orange/black-Data link connector
18)—Blue/white—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 10. 18-Blue/black-Data link connector
19)—Grey/purple—Data link connector (Dlc) pin 2. 19-Grey/orange-Data link connector
20)—Black—Chassis earth separate from pins 16+40+60. 20-Black-Earth
21)—Black—Idle control valve. 21-Black/yellow-Idle air control (IAC)
22)--. 22-Black/blue-Evaporative emissions (EVAP)
23)—Black—Knock sensor. 23--
24)—Black—Cam position sensor pin1. 24-White/purple-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
25)—White/purple—Air temperature sensor (Act). 25-White/purple-Intake air temp (IAT)
26)—Black—Throttle position sensor (Tps) 5v (yellow). 26-Yellow-Throttle position (TP)
27)-- 27--
28)—Black/yellow—Power steering pressure. 28-White-Power steering pressure(PSP)
29)-- 29--
30)—Black—Cam position sensor pin2. 30-Brown/white-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
31)—Black/white—Hi speed fan relay. 31-Black/white-Engine coolant blower motor relay 2 AC
32)—Black/blue—Starter motor inhibit relay. 32-Black/red-Starter motor relay
33)—Black/Yellow—Pre cat O2 sensor. 33-Black/yellow-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
34)—Black—Injector 3. 34-Black/blue-Injector 3
35)—White—Instrument cluster. 35--
36)—White/red—Data link connector pin7. 36--
37)—Purple/yellow—Switched 12v. 37-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
38)—Grey/orange—Immobilizer aerial (Pats). 38-Grey/orange-Immobiliser control module
39)—Black/orange—Immobilizer status Led. 39-Black/orange-Immobiliser LED
40)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth. 40-Black/yellow-Earth
41)-- 41-Blue-Alternator
42)-- 42--
43)—Brown/white—Clutch pedal position switch. 43-White-Clutch pedal position (CPP)
44)—White—Pre cat O2 sensor. 44-White-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
45)—Black—Alternator. 45-Grey-Alternator
46)—Brown/red—Sensor common. 46-Brown-CPP, CHT, HO2S, IAT, TP
47)—Black__Throttle position sensor. 47-White-Throttle position sensor (TP)
48)—White/red—Post cat O2 sensor. 48-White/red-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
49)-- 49--
50)—White/Blue—Mass air flow meter. 50-White/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
51)—Black/blue—Post cat O2 sensor. 51-Black/blue-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
52)—Black/blue—Instrument cluster Mil. 52-Black/green-Ignition aux circuits relay
53)—Black/blue—Fuel pump relay switched earth. 53-Black/blue-Fuel pump relay
54)—Black/yellow—Ac. 54-Black/yellow-AC compressor clutch relay
55)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 2. 55-Brown/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
56)—Black—Crank position sensor (Cps) pin 1. 56-White/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
57)—Purple/yellow—switched 12v. 57-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
58)—Black/orange—Coil pin 1. 58-Black/red-Ignition coil
59)—Black/green—Coil pin 3. 59-Black green-Ignition coil
60)—Black/yellow—Chassis earth. 60-Black/yellow-Earth
[Edited on 19/4/21 by davoloco]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 08:24 PM |
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The power supply pins are routed through two differant circuits in the donor. This forms part of the alarm and immobiliser.
The data link connector can have additional wiring eg abs. If you haven't got it you don't need if
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 08:29 PM |
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Black with a trace is likley a stitched earth. I am not sure for what.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 08:36 PM |
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Just buttoning up this 1.8. Runs like a Bentley 
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davoloco
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 09:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Just buttoning up this 1.8. Runs like a Bentley
That looks awesome. I'm hoping I'lll get there one day!
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davoloco
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 09:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
The power supply pins are routed through two differant circuits in the donor. This forms part of the alarm and immobiliser.
The data link connector can have additional wiring eg abs. If you haven't got it you don't need if
So just to put into perspective. I currently have a working pinto on my own loom that runs throughout the kit. I have permanent lives, switched lives
off a switch and a starter off a switch.
I've bought a second hand blacktop 2l off a focus. I have most of the engine loom eco etc.
I'm trying to understand some of the terminology -
you call pin 57 a switched 12v.
shorty calls pin 57 an engine control relay
Are we talking about the same thing? Is this just a switched 12v input?
57)—Purple/yellow—switched 12v. 57-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
Same as 37? Am I presuming this is a 12v switch supply for the engine? Or is it 12V given out trigger for the engine?
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