ashley750
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posted on 3/3/22 at 07:45 PM |
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40A Alternators
Looking at the small 40A alternators to use on my project car and have noticed some in this forum have used them.
There seems to be lots available, but was wondering if any makes are better than others? Are there makes to be avoided?
Any information would be appreciated.
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Mike Wood
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posted on 3/3/22 at 09:51 PM |
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Small Denso alternators might be worth a look often described for Kubota tractors and excavators
See: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125165212080
Look for part number DAN2039 for dimensions etc in:
http://www.denso-am.co.uk/e-catalogue/
&
https://www.denso-am.co.uk/products/automotive-aftermarket/starter-alternator/
Is this for an Ashley 750? You might just want to use a Lucas alternator (or equivalent) or dynamo instead if you are running an Austin 750 or Reliant
750/850 engine. E.g.
https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Alternators/GXE2211.aspx?0902&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Electrics/Alternators.aspx|Back%20to%20
shop
Cheers
Mike
[Edited on 3/3/22 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 3/3/22 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 3/3/22 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 3/3/22 by Mike Wood]
[Edited on 3/3/22 by Mike Wood]
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jelly head
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posted on 4/3/22 at 05:51 AM |
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you need to talk to starterman on here..
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 4/3/22 at 01:40 PM |
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I have (genuine) denso 40A jobbies on 2 cars, both have been bombpoof for the time (7 years) they have been in use. One car has done 2x48hr round
britain runs so spendt best part of 24 hours with all lights, heater etc etc running.
I did buy a spare a few years ago, on the basis many breakdowns on such events are down to things that rotate (alterators, especially the recon or new
copy ACR type are woeful). But it was only £40, and of course, it means I will never need it now.
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SJ
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posted on 4/3/22 at 03:33 PM |
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quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125165212080
This is the one I have, though mine was only £30 when I bought it. I also needed a different pulley for my Zetec which was about £20 IIRC. It's
worked perfectly since I fitted it about 12 years ago, though getting an ignition light out of it is a bit of a challenge as it only outputs a signal
voltage so won't light a bulb or led. I used a diode to switch a supply to my ignition light.
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ashley750
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posted on 4/3/22 at 10:06 PM |
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Thanks for all the replies.
My car is an Ashley 750 on a 1935 Austin 7 Ruby chassis with a tuned 750cc 2 brg engine.
I'm running an electric water pump and fan, so would be stretching what a modified (from 3 to 2 brush) 6V dynamo and regulator could provide
(<10A), and spending circa £600 on a 12v rewind would not provide any extra amps.
A vee belt pulley for the camshaft and a pintsized alternator with a few brackets would be around £200 ish and provide ample amps. The Austin purists
might not approve of an alternator, but then the car is already a long way away from standard any way!!
I'll also contact starterman via U2U.
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Mike Wood
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posted on 5/3/22 at 08:25 AM |
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That sounds like a great project. Can you post some pictures please.
Is this going to be a road car only, or any plans to run it in hillclimbs/sprints? (such specials are very welcome at events in Scotland that run
historic classes as well as a couple of historic only events - some LocostBuilders members have built and run such cars).
Have you tried also posting on the Austin Seven Friends forum for any additional hints and tips as well as for conversion from 6V to 12V (including
anything to consider the starter motor - more regular brush replacement?):
https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/
Cheers
Mike
[Edited on 5/3/22 by Mike Wood]
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JMW
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posted on 5/3/22 at 03:57 PM |
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...That sounds like a great project. Can you post some pictures please...
Seconded.
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ashley750
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posted on 5/3/22 at 04:22 PM |
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Not sure how to post images TBH. But there is lots of images on FB at 750Ashley
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40inches
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posted on 6/3/22 at 12:08 AM |
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Have you considered a Dynamator?
eBay item number:
331945146035
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ashley750
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posted on 7/3/22 at 05:28 PM |
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Dynamator used to do an Austin 7 specific version, but it appears that it is no longer being made.
From what I have heard the gears supplied were slightly different to the original ones and would cause damage to the camshaft gear, and they also had
a tendency to overheat.
Ref the Denso alternators, some have the B+ post and a 2 connector terminal, and some have the B+ post and 3 connector terminal. I'm aware the
B+ goes the the battery, one to the ignition switch and one to the dash light. What is the other terminal for on the 3 connector terminal version?
Does it matter which version I get?
[Edited on 7/3/22 by ashley750]
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