darren(SA)
|
 posted on 3/1/03 at 10:52 PM |
|
|
coil+dizzy=no spark
Ok, so electronics is not my strong point
My car is ready to be started (modded 1600 Xflow with standard electronics for now). What wiring, other than the positive + negative do I need on my
coil? Its connected to the dizzy & plugs via all the correct leads, but just doesn't get spark?
What about wiring onto/into the dizzy, Is there something I'm forgeting?
thanks
darren
|
|
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 4/1/03 at 12:29 AM |
|
|
Ok Darren. What type of dizzy are you running. Kettering ignition (points & condensor) or Electronic & if electronic which type.
|
|
|
darren(SA)
|
| posted on 4/1/03 at 09:44 AM |
|
|
I'm running the Kettering ignition (points & condensor) .
Hoping to change to electronic ASAP.I've got twin 40's so its a mission 2 get to the dizzy
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 4/1/03 at 10:49 AM |
|
|
You will need a (switched with balast) ignition fed live supply to the (+) on the coil, then from the (-) on the coil you will need to take a wire to
distributor points. As you will no doubt remember from your ignition classes at tech it is the collapse of the circuit that causes the spark to be
generated in the secondry windings of the coil. ie, no switched circuit through primary coil windings means no spark. And it's probably a good idea
to replace the points & condensor before you fit the distributor so that you can accurately gap the points (I believe about 16thou or 0.4mm). set the
crankshaft to TDC No1 cyl (no1 inlet valve closed 1/2 turn before tdc mark on front pulley ligned up) and with points set ensure that rotor is
pointing directly at the segment/lead for No1 cylinder by turning the distributor body, clamp distrubutor in place but do not over tighten as the
clamp bracket is known to collapse. timing should then be good enough to acheive start to run engine & time on timing light usually about 6 - 8
degrees BTDC.
Enjoy.
|
|
|
darren(SA)
|
| posted on 4/1/03 at 11:02 AM |
|
|
thanks jollygreengiant
quote:
you will need to take a wire to distributor points.
quote:
no switched circuit through primary coil windings means no spark
Ah, now I see! let me try putting this into practice
thanks
darren
|
|
|
darren(SA)
|
| posted on 6/1/03 at 05:12 PM |
|
|
Thanks jollygreengiant!
Tried connecting it up, started after a few turns! Sounds great, found a nice oil leak tho from the rear of the engine, turns out its the corner of
that aluminium thingy that bolts onto the block (behind the flywheel) thats broken, so we gonna have to build it up with some good steel glue
tomorrow
While here, can you tell me how to connect the rev counter up, I know its to the coil somewhere but then...?
thanks
darren
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 6/1/03 at 08:12 PM |
|
|
if memory serves me right it fits in the supply feed to the coil or in parralel I can't remember which. Sorry but I'm still of work and no books
lying to hand.
Oh & I know I might sound like a bit of an Ar*e for saying it but that ally thing is the crankshaft rear main oil seal carrier and tends to be sort of
under pressure. The real only option is to replace it cos it will leak again, it will result in a major oil leak & it will result in oil on the clutch
so it wants doing. Sorry. (properly)
Enjoy
|
|
|
darren(SA)
|
| posted on 6/1/03 at 11:58 PM |
|
|
NOOOOOOOOOO!
thanks for trying to put it nicely!
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 7/1/03 at 12:06 AM |
|
|
Theres no nice way to give bad news. Yep engine out.
Can I go bed now granma.
Enjoy.
If its any consolation to you when I were Lad i was rebuilding Jag (340 mk2) head onto block. All built up & timing chains on. Just fitting last cam
cover. Dropped one of the copper washers from under the nut. Dropped straight down the only empty plug hole. Yep Head off again. It taught me tho!.
[Edited on 7/1/03 by jollygreengiant]
|
|
|
darren(SA)
|
| posted on 8/1/03 at 05:29 PM |
|
|
PHEW!
managed to sort out the leak without taking the engine out! the crankshaft rear main oil seal carrier was not broken in a serious place(I hope not),
it was where it met the block & sump,just enough to leak. It still could blow(and proberly will!) ,but I managed to use the steel glue, another new
gasket + a whole lot of gasket maker!
We ran it for about 15min @2000rpm today and it seemed Ok. As you can tell, I got the rev counter connected, It was pretty simple,1 going to coil,1
going to earth as you said.
thanks for the help tho!
quote:
If its any consolation to you when I were Lad i was rebuilding Jag (340 mk2) head onto block. All built up & timing chains on. Just fitting last cam
cover. Dropped one of the copper washers from under the nut. Dropped straight down the only empty plug hole. Yep Head off again. It taught me tho!.
OUCH!
Similar thing happened to us a while ago: after everything was in, we discovered that our clutch was hard as hell, so naturally we went and took
everything out again to have it tested, turns out it was the leverage on the damn pedal
Like you say, learn from your mistakes!
darren
|
|
|
