pointy
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 05:27 PM |
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follow up to knumbskull.
perhaps i was a little unclear in my first request..
I am not looking for you good people to actually come and do the job..I just need on line guidance and will do the wiring whilst on line ..i hope to
hear the car run by tommorrow.so come on someone get me started.
andy p
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rayward
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 06:35 PM |
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give me some info, i will help as much as i can.
Ray
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pointy
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 07:05 PM |
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thanks rayward.
Here goes,
Starting from ignition switch ..4 wires coloured red, yellowand black, blue and black and 2 thinner yellow wires.
I have join premier loom red to red and run that to large ring fitting on back of starter.
On back of solenoid on starter is spade type connection, smaller ring fitting and large ring which i have run batterry positive lead to.
Next step with other wires please,
andy p
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Deckman001
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 07:10 PM |
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Next important question first, what engine are you using !! 
Jason
ps, might not have much time on here tonight, but will be able to help you get your engine started by lunch time tomorrow
[Edited on 24/9/05 by Deckman001]
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pointy
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 07:15 PM |
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1600 x flow
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Peteff
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 07:54 PM |
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On your other post, take the wire from the ignition blue/black to the spade terminal on your solenoid. This is the cranking position on the Sierra
ignition, whichever wire joins to this will need to go to the solenoid to throw it in.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Deckman001
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| posted on 24/9/05 at 08:08 PM |
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You also need to join the alternator to the battery and stater solenoid, my x/flow has a separate solenoid so might not be the same conections, blue
(i think) wire from the loom also goes to one of the alternator conections
More to follow 
Jason
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Deckman001
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 07:43 AM |
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Am following on from last posts, sort of
Engine Loom (coil)
Coil supply (black) to '+' side
Tacho impulse (LT Green) to '-' side
The ford wire from the Dizzy also goes to '-' side of coil
Hope this helps
Jason
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pointy
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 07:49 AM |
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ok,
I am now in a position to attack first lot of work.
andy p
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Deckman001
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 08:00 AM |
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Take ya time with the layout of it , it will be worth it in the end !!
Have you sorted the column end of the wiring yet ??
Jason
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pointy
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 08:30 AM |
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couple of questions.
Firstly have connected red mains wire directly to battery from loom. Black and Blue from Loom is now on a spade. Mains battery cable to large
connection on back of Solenoid. I now get a click when turning ignition on but suspect battery low, so now on charge!!
Question: Small terminal on back of solenoid is not connected to anything ???????
Question: Light Green (tacho) do I splice in with wire from negative side of coil and join to dizzy
Andy P
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wilkingj
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 09:19 AM |
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You have fitted a Nice thick Earth Cable from the Engine to the Chassis and one from the Chassis to the -Neg side of the Battery?. (Usually Black or
open Braid)
I prefer to use Black Insulated.
And a Nice Thick Red one from the +Pos side of the Battery to the Big terminal on the Starter motor (solenoid)?.
IS your starter a combined solenoid and motor or do you have two seperate components?
Seperates:
Thick red from Battery to solenoid, other side of solenoid to starter. Thin wires to solenoid . No thin wires to starter (only single terminal on
starter).
Combined Starter and solenoid commonly called Pre-Engaged Starter)
Thick red wire from Battery to big terminal on The starter.
Thin wires to starter small connection.
IF... you have more than one small terminal on the starter (Pre-engaged only) It will be for use with a Ignition with a Ballast resistor.
One terminal will operate the solenoid, the other will put out 12V when the solenoid is operated (To feed direct to the coil, bypassing the resistor,
so giving full voltage to the coil whilst starting).
The thin wires are really control wires for the starter solenoid. They then switch the heavy current to the Starter.
Make sure you clean back to bright bare metal for ALL the earth connections. You can paint or grease over the top to stop them rusting.
Remember the wiring is LOTS of LITTLE circuits not ONE BIG one. Treat it as such, and it will become easier.
I didnt like the premier paperwork, and have told them why.
Look at the wiring, and what the designation of the wire is, ie what it does, and then work out where to connect it.
Read and re-read their paperwork, and work out what each wire is for, then Label it up. Do all the easy ones first... It gets a load of wires out of
the way (identified and labelled) that will leave you with the ones you are not so sure about. knock them off one at a time.. doing the others first
gets you into the mindset of the paperwork, and things start to become clearer as to what they are talking about.
Also the list of unknown wires is smaller, which makes the job look smaller to you..
its a trick to make a large job look easier..
I have been there many years ago with the old Electro mechanical telephone exchanges that I used to install. Believe me there were hundreds of
thousands of wires in them!
It can be done... take you time, work out and identify, label, CHECK... then Connect and Test.
Good Luck..
Ask on here.. advice costs less than a burnt out wiring loom, car or even the garage or House!
DONT bolt up the battery Earth connection too tight, keep it gently nipped up, and the right spanner ALWAYS by the battery, so you can disconnect in
a hurry if need be.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Peteff
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 10:36 AM |
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Clamp the earth to the battery with a small mole grip till you are ready to bolt it. That way you can release it in no time if it starts to smoke
anywhere.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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pointy
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 10:40 AM |
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Many Thanks for all your help so far....
Does the small connector on Solenoid provide power to positive side of coil???
and if so do I link the Black Wire from Premier Loom to small connector on Solenoid which the forms a circuit from ignition - to - starter/solenoid -
to - coil.
Regards Stressed of Dereham!!! (Andy P)
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907
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 11:25 AM |
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I'm not 100% sure on this as I'm an electrical dimwit but....
If you run an alternator without it being conected to the battery it blows the diodes in it.
Make sure you have a wire from the big spade on the alt to the + on the battery, usually at the starter solanoid.
I think I made this f*** up and it cost me £30
Can someone confirm ?
Paul G
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pointy
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 11:45 AM |
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so in thick speech....for that is what i am...do i run a red wire from 1 of the 2 big spades on the alternator directly to the + battery or via the
large connector on the starter solenoid. if so which 1 of the 2 large spades???
I bet people are laughing there heads off at the lack of elctrical knowledge..but I have been so put off with the thought of a fire undoing all the
other work..
By the way she turns over on the key so progress is being made ..
can anybody answer the linking coil to starter question posed b4.
andy p
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907
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 12:32 PM |
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Alt has 2 big & a small spade
small = ign light
the 2 big ones are the same (some cars use 2 thin wires, one on each;
other cars use 1 thick wire on either of the big terminals) errr I think.
+ side of ign coil should come from ign switch, (key) running position.
I have a Nova column so I can't help with wire colours.
Paul G
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stevebubs
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| posted on 25/9/05 at 01:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pointy
Many Thanks for all your help so far....
Does the small connector on Solenoid provide power to positive side of coil???
and if so do I link the Black Wire from Premier Loom to small connector on Solenoid which the forms a circuit from ignition - to - starter/solenoid -
to - coil.
Regards Stressed of Dereham!!! (Andy P)
Yes - the other side of the coil does provide power to the coil, but only when cranking the starter.
In normal operation on a crossflow, the coil is powered via a ballast resistor to give 9v across the terminals.
When cranking, the solenoid connection above bypasses the ballast resistor and gives the coil a full whack of 12v. This in theory gives a stronger
spark for starting.
In practice, you can swap the 9v coil out for a 12v one from an MGB or similar and ditch the balast resistor. As you're now powering the coil
with a full 12v, you can ditch the bypass connection from the solenoid.
HTH
Stephen
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jos
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 09:00 AM |
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Clamping either the negative connection or the positive/earth connection to the battery is one of the all time great pieces of advice you could ever
receive or give. Make sure that you can, with a quick flick of the wrist, disconnect the loom from the battery. I certainly needed it and have been
extreemly grateful for the advice.
.: Motorsport / motor racing circuit / track wall art Apex Traxs :.
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pointy
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 05:42 PM |
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please read if u read the knumbskull threads
Yippee whooo, backflips, squeels of delight,etc etc....
She is running!!!!!!!!...she sounds a bit out of tune but she ticks over a treat......... A big thank you to all who contributed over last weekend to
get me started I now am full of enthusiasm to get her to sva.....rest of loom first.
Thanks again.
Andy p (if anybody could find the other end of my smiling face please return to Norfolk..)
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Mix
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| posted on 30/9/05 at 06:23 AM |
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What an excellent bit of co-operation, this is what makes Locostbuilders special for me.
Mick
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