scutter
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 08:16 PM |
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Buzzer Wiring
Ok folks,
After an enjoyable few days of driving post SVA, I've got to fit a warning Buzzer into the indicator circuit as it's getting
embarassing.
Would anyone be able to tell me a stockist of said item and what's the best way to wire them in?
Many thanks Dan.
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gary gsx
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 08:24 PM |
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How about a buzzer that you have wired up in to tow bars cant be that hard to wire up or maybe a low air buzzer of a 12v lorry Ford Cargo or a like
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RazMan
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 08:25 PM |
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Maplins do a 12V piezo jobbie - only a couple of quid too.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 08:36 PM |
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I don't think they are that heavy a load so you could just tap into the flasher unit feed to the stalk switch (depending on how its wired). If
you find it's to high a load then wire it through a relay.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 08:47 PM |
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I fitted a Maplin's buzzer into the indicator circuit of my car, for just the same reason.
A short while later I worked out how to set the indicator cancel cam correctly - and then disconnected the buzzer because it was very embarrassing
when driving "sensibly" in a built-up area (e.g. driving into my road at 9pm - BEEP - BEEP - BEEP - BEEP ). Also fitting a Bright6 light
unit meant that I could clearly see the indicator warn lights, even in bright weather, making the beep less important.
So, fit a buzzer if you wish, but put an off switch in the circuit (hide it somewhere behind the dash). Otherwise you'll be unwiring it
again...
cheers,
David
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chris_smith
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 09:01 PM |
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used to fit towbars for a living extremely easy to fit a towbar buzzer cost couple of quid
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scutter
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 09:01 PM |
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Bugger, believe that the small plastic cam is still sat in a box in the workshop.
I'll see if I can fish it out and fit it tomorrow, from what i can gather it goes inline with the indicator lever correct?
Many Thanks to everyone. Dan.
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RazMan
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 09:03 PM |
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You could even wire it to be enabled only with the lights switched off - during night time driving the warning light should be easily visible.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Hellfire
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 09:19 PM |
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We've used a Piezo one... not the 99p buzzer jobby as it's loud but not noticable.
I've not worked out how to wire a single unit into the circuit to get it to work from both sides as it has to be in series in the circuit and
the power would be too much for the little mite. So, I wired two in one on either side on the negative side of the side flasher. That way it
doesn't need to cope with so much power.
It works very well and when you play the hazards you get the tones in stereo! 
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rayward
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| posted on 26/9/05 at 11:18 PM |
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hellfire,
you could do it with a single buzzer and 2 diodes .
ray
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 07:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scutter
Bugger, believe that the small plastic cam is still sat in a box in the workshop.
I'll see if I can fish it out and fit it tomorrow, from what i can gather it goes inline with the indicator lever correct?
Yep - If you look inside the gubbins when the wheel is off, you should see a little white nylon peg that sits in line with the indicator lever. Put
the lump on the cam right under this. You may have to realign the wheel and steering to get it all back in line afterwards (annoying - but at least
it will be right from then on).
cheers,
David
P.S. When travelling at speed I couldn't hear the Maplin buzzer, and it was a loud one! That was the other reason for taking it off...
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Hellfire
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 08:43 AM |
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From what I had read about you could wire the buzzer in using two diodes and one buzzer. However, this would need to be done near to the switch (where
the direction takes place) as it needs to be in series; is not the combined power (50W+) too much for the circuitry to take? The wires leading too and
from the buzzer are at most 1mm^2 not to mention the piezo resonator being quite fragile.
For this reason I placed them both on the side repeater - negative side as this uses less power than the total power and the buzzer could/can cope
with this. The one's we have aren't the buzzer (electric) type as they sound loud but the sound disappears at speed. We used the more
expensive (£2) piezo one the sound is clean and piercing.
If you indicate and you cant hear it I'd say that junction you're approaching you would never make it anyway! 
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 09:34 AM |
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When I say "buzzer" I really mean "beeper" - it's a piezo-type, and is REALLY annoying when you're sitting at an
in-town junction waiting to move off.
When I'm getting a move on, the wind roar drowns the sound of the beeper almost completely. As I said initially, it's much better to set
the cancel up so it works properly, backed up by dash lights that really can be seen clearly.
David
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rayward
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 09:59 AM |
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apologies for the "paint" drawing but, like this...
if you wanted it not to beep when your lights are on, just put a normally closed relay contact in the Gnd side of the buzzer,so when the lights are
turned, the relay energises and disconnects the gnd, you could even do it with 2 different buzzers, 1 with lights on and a different one with lights
off.
[Edited on 27/9/05 by rayward]
[Edited on 27/9/05 by rayward]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 27/9/05 at 10:15 AM |
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ive used the Maplins piezo buzzers before. Very good. If you find them too loud try sticking a piece of gaffer tape (or 2) over the end to dull it
down/tune it a bit. I guess same could be done with resistor but this may upset the flasher.
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