Avoneer
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 10:43 PM |
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POR 15 - POWDER COAT OR CHASSIS BLACK
What would you use?
Chassis will be blasted first.
I have a full cage so the finish needs to be nice.
Pat...
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 10:58 PM |
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i pnodered the same but leaning toward frost chassis black basically because its a bit more locost than powdercoat
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JonBowden
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 11:08 PM |
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sorry to be dumb, but what is chassis black? - does it form a propper moisture barrier like paint?
Jon
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Johnmor
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 11:12 PM |
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Chassis
I know this was discussd before , but have you cosidered Hammerite Smooth, if its applied on top of a good primer and thinned before you spray the
finnish can be pretty goood, and you get a wide choice of colours that can be touched up as you work on the chassis.
A cheap spry gun(£15) will give a decent finnish if you take your time, but as it contains silicone you can't really use the gun for anything
else.
Its pretty hard wearing and reasonably chip resistant.
I have used this on gates and other steel frames and its been great. I thinks that how i'm going to go
Its only a personal opinion but black does'nt look great sometimes and it looks old pretty quick.
If they did chassis black in other colours, but what would you call it?
There, thats my tuppence worth!!
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mnr laptop
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| posted on 6/12/05 at 11:22 PM |
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from personal experiance, having painted my own chassis, definately powdercoating everytime, so much more durable and if done properly can give just
as nice a finish as a sprayjob ( anyone who has seen our powder coated parts will tell you )
all our kit parts are blasted and two coats of powder applied but cost is 180 but in my opinion well worth it ( especially as you have a full cage )
very open to stone chips / helmet scratches
just my 2p
best regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 12:07 AM |
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Thanks guys.
So, money no object, and as long as it done right, the best bet is probably powder coating???
That's the way I am thinking at the moment.
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 12:08 AM |
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Marc, is that £180 for everything?
Sounds very reasonable.
Pat...
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want2race
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 03:31 AM |
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Mate. let me tell you and I really hope you heed my advice.. POR blows!
http://www.want2race.net/lotus7/Building/images/PICT3682.JPG
That shows the car after 2 coats. Its the most disgusting stuff to work with, its reacts to UV light which also looks like crap and its not easy to
make it look good.
NEVER in my life will I ever buy another can of POR! I would be 10x more likely to pay someone to Powdercoat it..
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UncleFista
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 03:32 AM |
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Powdercoating every time for me...
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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Baldrick
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 04:38 AM |
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one of the downsides of powder coating is if you have to add brackets etc. afterwards then it can be difficult to get off and also difficult to touch
up afterwards. Unles you get it all assembled first, then take it completely to bits and coat it then. But as far as finish and durability goes
it's great once it's on.
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 09:45 AM |
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One problem with powder coat is touching it up if you do chip it.. You can't use powder coat.
Also finding a place that will do it well is a problem, if you have pin holes it's going to rust under the coating, it will rust under the
powder coat and come off... you can't fix this without starting again, you need a company that knows which type of powder coat (for a chassis)
and use and the correct surface prep. I was thinking of powder coating, but it's not locost, you can't rework it, and you need to find a
real expert to do the work, simpler said then done...
I ended up surface prep, priming (using acid etch primer as I could'nt get it blasted) and 2 to 3 coats of chassis black (which remains fexiable
and is petrol and oil proof). All applied with a roller, takes an age, but cheap (cost us about £25 in paint)....
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iank
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 10:22 AM |
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I'd never use powercoat on a chassis which might get a big bang (circuit racing for example), or if you don't really trust the
welder.
The chassis can start to crack under it and you won't be able to see it until it gets really bad or lets go suddenly  . If you have a bang
you really should to strip it off to assess the damage properly, which is a really unpleasant job from what I've heard.
Well done powercoat does look the dogs danglies though, and can be very tough if done by a good, experienced, operator.
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andyb64
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 11:55 AM |
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Avoneer, not sure where in Yorkshire you are but a mate of mine had his chassis powder coated at Peaty's in Yeadon ( not far from Leeds/Bradford
airport ) and they did a great job.
Andy...
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stevebubs
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 12:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Thanks guys.
So, money no object, and as long as it done right, the best bet is probably powder coating???
That's the way I am thinking at the moment.
Pat...
On the basis that my 11 year old Fury has no rust on the chassis and had no work on it, then yes - I would powdercoat every time
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 01:10 PM |
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I painted my chassis with POR 15. The surface needs to be prepped prior to application. If not, the POR 15 will not adhere well, and will come off in
strips. It is UV sensitive, but can be overpainted. I tried some on a rusty area on the base panel of my trailer. It's been there 4 years, and
despite constant use and abuse, the paint is still there, and no rust has returned. If you look on the POR 15 website, and follow the instructions, it
does what it says on the tin. It is expensive in the UK, but worth every penny in my opinion.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 01:51 PM |
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And now I'm falling towards the POR15 solution.
Would certainly work out a lot cheaper and no transportation worries.
Any suggestions to get a good finish on the roll cage as it is welded in.
I could spray this with normal canned car paint and laquer???
Or will I be able to get POR15 smooth enough???
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 02:28 PM |
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two pack , polyurethane chassis black .
witham oil and paint have some or any good paint shop .
easy to touch up , blow in areas .
must use an oxygen mask when spraying - you can get satin finish also , which to me is dogs danglies .
looking at £50 -£100 to do the chassis and have some left over .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 02:55 PM |
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We sprayed our roll bar with cheap black aerosol car paint (1pound a pop from pound land) over etch primer, very happy with it. Trouble is it takes an
age to go hard as it's cellulose based (months!!)... Not been used yet so no idea how it will hold up, but looks good. Some kind of clear top
coat would be a good idea.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 03:07 PM |
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I used the silver POR15 and am pleased with the results. (appart from where the wife got a little carried away and there are runs  )
It is effected by UV but now my chassis has now turned a quite fetching goldy colour... might not bother over painting it...
[Edited on 7/12/05 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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UncleFista
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 03:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyb64
Avoneer, not sure where in Yorkshire you are but a mate of mine had his chassis powder coated at Peaty's in Yeadon ( not far from Leeds/Bradford
airport ) and they did a great job.
Andy...
Same place that did my chassis, nice job they did too 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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stevec
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 06:45 PM |
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MK are Powdercoating my Indy. I have had Kart frames done before and I think it beats painting every time.It gets in all the little bits where you
cant, and if done right it is as hard as nails.
Steve.
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kb58
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| posted on 7/12/05 at 08:09 PM |
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That's one big advantage of powdercoating - the powder is statically attracted so it tends to "go around the backside" of tubes.
Ordinary painting can be really tough when doing a 3D space frame, as it can be *very* hard to know if you have complete coverage on every side of
every tube. Plus it can be very hard to get the gun in everywhere, close enough, to ensure coverage, yet not bump the hose against a wet tube. With
powdercoat they just spray a cloud of powder toward the frame and like magic, it is drawn to all the surfaces, even the hard to get to corners.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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marc n
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:36 AM |
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herse a pic of our powder coating
best regards
marc
 
Rescued attachment powder-coat-1.jpg
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 09:49 AM |
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Will vouch that MNR's powdercoating is THE BEST quality that I have ever seen on ANY kit components, compared to any company, including the very
big names at the "top of the tree"
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marc n
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| posted on 8/12/05 at 10:12 AM |
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cheers nat, dare i ask about cycle wing brackets ?????
pat i think you would regret not powder coating if the car is something you are considering to keep for a while,
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