NS Dev
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 11:53 AM |
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Neat and cheap way of splitting main power feed
I have come across this problem on a number of cars that I have built now, and never really solved it nicely!
Has anybody got a neat solution to splitting the main power feed to the fusebox to various fuses and relays without a zillion jumper wires?
The best solution I have found to date was the splitter box from a Pug 205, which has some fuses in as well "pre-busbarred".
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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nick205
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:11 PM |
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Vehicle Wiring Products have a selection of bits and pieces for building fuse boxes. Check out
CLICK HERE about half way down there's a fuse box/holder with
commoned fuses connected by busbars underneath.
HTH
Nick
DOH - just seen your earlier post, so I guess you've already found the VWP website
[Edited on 2/3/06 by nick205]
[Edited on 2/3/06 by nick205]
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02GF74
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:13 PM |
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something like this perhaps? from VWP .... damn ... someone beat me to it !
[Edited on 2/3/06 by 02GF74]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Vehicle Wiring Products have a selection of bits and pieces for building fuse boxes. Check out
CLICK HERE about half way down there's a fuse box/holder with
commoned fuses connected by busbars underneath.
HTH
Nick
DOH - just seen your earlier post, so I guess you've already found the VWP website
[Edited on 2/3/06 by nick205]
[Edited on 2/3/06 by nick205]
Yes, usually use them, but can't see a fusebox that has busbars?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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shortie
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:22 PM |
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I had exactly the same problem and spoek to Premier Wiring about it and they sent me a fusebox with a busbar that you can basically select how many
feeds you want in each bit and then split them accordingly. So basically mine came as 6 joined and I split them into a 4 and a 2 and crimped the 2
wires in accordingly and then slid them into the fusebox.
HTH,
Rich.
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ReMan
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:22 PM |
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£43.00  VWP
I was looking for teh same and didnt find anything, so lots of link loops, perhaps an opening here for someone to produce something?
www.plusnine.co.uk
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flak monkey
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:29 PM |
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Why not do it the way the old escort loom, and probably a lot of other car looms are done?
Take your main live feed to the ignition switch, and spur off it to some switches that always need power, like lights, hazards etc. Other switches
that need a switched feed take from the ign position on the switch (things like brake lights and indicators). The fuse is then the other side of the
switches, between the switch and what ever it is you are switching.
Nice and neat, simple and easy to trace.
BTW in reference to your other post about fuse numbers, I got an 8 fuse box, but am only using 6 of them. Thought it might be handy to have a spare
one or two.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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shortie
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 12:35 PM |
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Mine was well under a tenner IIRR from Premier
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 01:14 PM |
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Cheers Shortie, that's exactly what I needed to know! I'll give em a call!
Thanks
Nat
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 01:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Why not do it the way the old escort loom, and probably a lot of other car looms are done?
Take your main live feed to the ignition switch, and spur off it to some switches that always need power, like lights, hazards etc. Other switches
that need a switched feed take from the ign position on the switch (things like brake lights and indicators). The fuse is then the other side of the
switches, between the switch and what ever it is you are switching.
Nice and neat, simple and easy to trace.
BTW in reference to your other post about fuse numbers, I got an 8 fuse box, but am only using 6 of them. Thought it might be handy to have a spare
one or two.
David
That's all very well but you have to link everything into those switches, adn I am a bit fastidious when it comes to wiring (hang on from the
rally days when EVERYTHING had to be 110% bulletproof!) and it means either multiple wires to the same terminal (messy) or wires soldered in in the
middle of runs (not good practice)
Also means long runs prior to the fuses, which again I don't want.
Gang-fed fuses are by far the best idea, then the fusebox itself acts at the splitter, and there's no (well very little) wiring to trace
upstream of the fusebox, only downstream.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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flak monkey
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 01:35 PM |
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Fair enough And a good point
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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lsdweb
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 01:42 PM |
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On my previous cars, I took a length of battery cable (multistranded) and split the strands into six different bundles and shrink wrapped all these -
this gives one feed from the master switch to six different points on the fuse box - it works well but took some time!
Regards
Wyn
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stevec
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| posted on 2/3/06 at 05:26 PM |
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Volvo.
 
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/3/06 at 12:12 AM |
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Ahhhh, what Volvo would that be from??
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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chrisf
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| posted on 4/3/06 at 03:20 PM |
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This may or may not help...
I used two fuse blocks One is the live feed off the battery. The other feed is energized
from a relay, which itself is switch from (you got it!) the ignition switch.
--Chris
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