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Author: Subject: push start ignition
omega0684

posted on 5/3/06 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
push start ignition

L O L O L O

evening all, just a quick one tonight, has anybody looked into fitting a push start ignition. i just wanted to know whats involved in fitting one and where i can get the bits and bobs to do so, is it easy to do etc etc yarda yarda yarda

cheers guys

ATB Alex





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Deckman001

posted on 5/3/06 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, it's no problem at all, 'Savage' is the common make people use, it even includes an led light built in, wire the light to the alt light in the loom and hey presto, it only lights up when you need to see it
Hope this helps
Jason

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donut

posted on 5/3/06 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
Yep Deckman fittid mine with an arming switch too so wandering fingers can't engage the starter when the engine is running. Top job he did too!!





Andy

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Deckman001

posted on 5/3/06 at 10:43 PM Reply With Quote


Jason

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flak monkey

posted on 5/3/06 at 11:11 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Alex,

I have just put the wiring in my loom for the savage switch. I drew this wiring diagram to show how to fit it. I added a relay as I wasnt comfortable with the ability of the switch to repeatedly switch the starter solenoid reliably. Will chat to you about it tomorrow if you are about...

http://gtslocost.locostsites.co.uk/images/76.jpg

David

PS the switch illuminations missing from that diagram, but as Jason said wire it in to the alternator light and the jobs a goodun (just remember the alternator light switches to 0V )

[Edited on 5/3/06 by flak monkey]





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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phaeton

posted on 6/3/06 at 07:16 AM Reply With Quote
I have been told that the resistance of the lamp to the alternator determines how much the alternator will charge. Placing an extra bulb will increase the resistance and will overcharge the battery. Anyone thoughts about this?

Erik

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RazMan

posted on 6/3/06 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
The voltage regulator controls voltage and current output of the alternator by automatically cutting resistance in or out of the field circuit to keep it in a safe value. Varying the resistance alters the amount of current passing through the field. When the battery becomes fully charged, the resistance is cut into the field circuit and the charging rate is decreased - the warning lamp has no purpose except for a warning that the battery is not being charged.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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chrisg

posted on 6/3/06 at 09:37 AM Reply With Quote
My car has a small push switch wired through a relay, in fact it's a screen washer button. You don't need an expensive heavy duty switch, my set-up cost less than 50p!

cheers

Chris

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rusty

posted on 6/3/06 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
I have one of these

CLick Me

One switch for the ignition and one to isolate the start button.

I used relays for main ignition as was not sure the switches could take the power. Also rigged a relay to cut power to some circuits while the engine is cranking.

Can draw diagram if required.

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chrisf

posted on 9/3/06 at 02:13 PM Reply With Quote
I used a Honda S2000 switch. The picture is from my old dash. I wired it so the button goes hot when the key is turned. Then, pushing the button energizes the relay to the starter.

--HTH, Chris

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MikeRJ

posted on 9/3/06 at 11:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
The voltage regulator controls voltage and current output of the alternator by automatically cutting resistance in or out of the field circuit to keep it in a safe value. Varying the resistance alters the amount of current passing through the field. When the battery becomes fully charged, the resistance is cut into the field circuit and the charging rate is decreased - the warning lamp has no purpose except for a warning that the battery is not being charged.


Not quite true, the warning lamp supplies field excitation current in many alternators, especialy older ones.

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flak monkey

posted on 10/3/06 at 09:05 AM Reply With Quote
The lights in most of these switches (and certainly in the Savage ones) are LEDs, so they draw very little current indeed, the small difference they make shouldnt have any adverse effects.





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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BKLOCO

posted on 10/3/06 at 10:15 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
The voltage regulator controls voltage and current output of the alternator by automatically cutting resistance in or out of the field circuit to keep it in a safe value. Varying the resistance alters the amount of current passing through the field. When the battery becomes fully charged, the resistance is cut into the field circuit and the charging rate is decreased - the warning lamp has no purpose except for a warning that the battery is not being charged.


Not quite true, the warning lamp supplies field excitation current in many alternators, especialy older ones.


Yes. True. But this has bugger all to do with the batery being overcharged, which was the original claim..
That function is purely governed by the V Reg.
The field excitation is there only to initially start the alternator generating.

[Edited on 10-3-06 by BKLOCO]

[Edited on 10-3-06 by BKLOCO]





Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!

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iank

posted on 10/3/06 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
The bright-6 has an additional resistor and diode in parallel with the charging LED presumable to allow the excitation current at switch-on (i.e. makes the LED look more like a bulb electronically speaking).

Of course you only need this if you are replacing the bulb. Using the signal to light the start button should just work.

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