RazMan
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 05:53 PM |
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Battery Isolator Wiring
I can't find a current rating on my cheapie isolator switch and wonder if it will take starter motor current without frying itself.
Ideally I want to isolate everything except my electric water pump which can run a little longer to avoid heat soak after the engine is
switched off.
[Edited on 5-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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nitram38
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 06:00 PM |
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It is designed to go in the main battery lead so it is designed to isolate everything.
I opted for the diode/resistor version which protects your alternator if you switch it off with the engine running. It also cuts the engine as the
cheapy one will allow the alternator to supply the engine with power.
[Edited on 5/5/2006 by nitram38]
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RazMan
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 06:07 PM |
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Okey dokey, so I will run a 10mm lead from the +ve battery terminal to the isolator and everything else connects to the other switch terminal.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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nitram38
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 07:15 PM |
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Remember that it will not shut your engine down or protect your alternator if you switch off with the engine running.
It would not pass scrutineering if you wanted to race it either.
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RazMan
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 09:42 PM |
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This is only a road car so no problem 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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