NS Dev
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posted on 22/5/06 at 10:28 PM |
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Alt warning light, Denso alternator
This has been on here before, but can't find it.
I'm using a Denso alternator, one with the main power connection plus 2 spades.
I know one is for ign controlled live and the other is for the warning light, but there is a complication:
I am using an LED for the warning light. Does this alternator rely on the feed through the light to excite the windings or not? I'm guessing not
as it has the ign controlled live as well which presumably does this????
Basically I need to know whether I can just feed the lamp connection on the alternator via the LED, (internally resistored led unit I hasten to add)
or whether I need to bridge the LED out with a diode and resistor to simulate a bulb?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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muzchap
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posted on 23/5/06 at 12:23 AM |
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Hi nat,
think its the same as mine - I'm using a bright six (LED) dash light - I just ran it to that.
You will need a constant fused earth to the alternator though - otherwise it won't charge - found that out
So I have 3 wires to mine - main charge wire, fused constant earth and then the dash light wire...
Hope that helps..
Murray
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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ned
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posted on 23/5/06 at 06:22 AM |
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the bright 6 has circuitry to cope with the fact that its an led, rich posted recently when we were trying to sort my alternator out which has some
info , i'll see if i can find it.
Ned.
try here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=45168
[Edited on 23/5/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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rusty
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posted on 23/5/06 at 07:14 AM |
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Our denso has a fused live connected to the ignittion 2 but no perminant earth so different ones mind need to be wired differently
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RazMan
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posted on 23/5/06 at 07:44 AM |
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Murray - A fused earth? Doesn't the case act as earth then? Why fused? - unless it is for a reverse polarity (US style) alternator.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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iank
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posted on 23/5/06 at 08:43 AM |
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There is a circuit diagram of the bright 6 (without component values) on their instruction sheet.
Available here: http://www.lightninglooms.co.uk/bright6%20instructions%201_1.doc
It shows the additional diode/resistor to make the ignition LED look like a bulb.
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muzchap
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posted on 23/5/06 at 09:16 AM |
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Bah it was 1:30am - I meant FUSED LIVE
LOL
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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NS Dev
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:09 PM |
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I think it will work fine whether permanent live or ign controlled live, doesn't really matter as long as its on when the alternator is
spinning.
Cheers all, the bright 6 instructions should sort it, although I am still not sure I need to do the diode and resistor bit. Obviously the bright 6
needs to work with all alternators, some of which need the bulb's current to excite them, but I am fairly sure the Denso uses the seperate live
feed for that so the warning light wire is just for the light and nothing else...........................?
Anybody confirm??
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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muzchap
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posted on 23/5/06 at 07:46 PM |
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Nat.
I'll take a pic of mine - if it helps you
But - I got the biggest wire to charge.
Another wire supplying constant power (fused) - either ignition or permanent - to enable it to charge.
The final wire is connected to the alternator light on the bright 6.
You can wire it in and test it - by earthing out the sender wire - it should pop the bright 6 alternator light on - that's how I tested and
wired mine just this weekend.
So to confirm - No extra jiggery pokery required - just connect the last wire up to the bright 6
[Edited on 23/5/06 by muzchap]
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If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
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NS Dev
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posted on 24/5/06 at 10:38 AM |
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Ah yes, but to coin the pun of "crossed wires" I'm not using a Bright 6!!!
I have individual LED units bought from RS components (ones designed for 12v with suitable built in resistors)
Cheers for the help though. Think I will wire it in and see what happens, if the light either doesn't come on at all or won't go out then
i'll add the diode and resistor "bulb simulator" bit thats in the bright 6 module.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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