the_fbi
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 11:13 AM |
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Blade not sparking
OK, having sorted the slow turning over problem with a better earth, seems I'm not getting a spark 
There's not much to the wiring so not quite sure where its wrong, especially as apparently its been run before and I've only improved the
wiring since.
The "ECU" has 5 green/silver wires all earthed out. There are sidestand, neutral, earth and a couple of others. All are silvery/green
based wires.
There's the pink from the ECU which has a 390 Ohm (or whatever it is) resistor in line which joins to my main ignition live from the dash
together with another wire to the ECU (have to check what that is). And the ignition switched live is getting +12v so so should be the ECU and via the
resistor.
Plugs seem to have a massive gap, I'd say an easy 1.5mm, but perhaps bikes run larger gaps than cars?
I need to check the coil wiring, but I've not changed that and its all supposed to have been running before.
Plugs are wet and new, but slightly sooty so would suggest has been run before but only very briefly.
I'll check the coil wiring (what can I meter when cranking?) but any clues appreciated.
ta
Chris
[Edited on 23/12/06 by the_fbi]
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the_fbi
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 11:48 AM |
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Correction to the above post.
There are only 4 wires earthed. One is Neutral, one is side stand, the 3rd is the ground rectifier.
The 4th is a dark green which goes to the bottom left of the ECU (when looking at the wires going in from the back of the connector) to the right of
the yellow.
This 4th wire isn't on my wiring diagram at all, and its earthed. I'm sure it should be there, but don't know what it is.
Ignition switched 12v only goes to 2 wires, 1 the pink via a resistor, the 2nd to the engine stop switch, which interestingly has been spliced into
this wire so it feeds the ECU with 12v and also the stop switch circuit and also the coil's 12v. So that should be OK. But I'll check the
coils are getting 12v.
Edit: Coils are getting 12v with ignition on, to their left hand connections. When viewed with terminals at the top, plug feeds at bottom.
[Edited on 23/12/06 by the_fbi]
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the_fbi
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 12:11 PM |
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OK, well coils aren't being given any voltage on their trigger side at all when cranking.
So, where is this "Inition pulse generator" located on the engine.
Should be a 2 wire connector somewhere.
Edit: Found these 2 wires, they are connected but I can't see where the other end of their wires go. Ie. where is the physical pulse
generator?
[Edited on 23/12/06 by the_fbi]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 06:24 PM |
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Common gap on a Fireblade Plug is 0.9mm
Sounds to me like a HISS problem - make sure all the greens go to earth. We had a similar problem turned out the coils were not getting any feed as
I'd assumed something incorrectly. Connected a live and bingo away it went...
GL
Steve
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the_fbi
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 06:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Common gap on a Fireblade Plug is 0.9mm
Sounds to me like a HISS problem - make sure all the greens go to earth. We had a similar problem turned out the coils were not getting any feed as
I'd assumed something incorrectly. Connected a live and bingo away it went...
GL
Steve
This isn't my 954 engine, this is a 919 so no HISS. Should be a piece of cake
I guess I can stick a meter on one of the Ignition Pulse Generator wires and I should see a voltage when cranking? Which one?
Coils are getting 12v with the ignition on, just not the trigger to spark them up
I'll have to check the resistor which is fitted, it was already in place so I assumed it was the correct one, but I'll strip back the
heatshrink and loom tape (arse) and see what it is.
What are the colours for the correct 390 Ohm resistor?
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DIY Si
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 07:03 PM |
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The pulse generator is located inside the engine/ gearbox somewhere and is a toothed wheel, as it would be on a car engine.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 07:58 PM |
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Hi Chris
Here's an extract of the startup checklist I made when staring up my RRX 919 engine, hope it helps:
quote:
• Ensure all Green wires in the loom are earthed to the chassis
• Connect Green and Green/White together at the side-stand switch connector
• Connect Green/White and Green/Red together at the clutch switch connector
• Earth the Blue/Red neutral switch wire (Unless you always want to find neutral before starting it!)
If you don’t have the original handlebar switches:
• Connect a switch between Black and Black/White for the stop switch. Leave switch in “open” position until ready to start.
• Connect a switch between Red/Yellow and Black/White for the starter switch. Leave switch in “open” position until ready to start.
• Connect up the instruments, ignition control module, regulator, coil packs etc. The only connections that aren’t generally needed to fire up are
ones relating to lights, horn etc.
• Check all the fuses in the fuse box.
• If you have the ignition barrel but don’t have the ignition key (like me), take the plastic electrical part off the back of the barrel so you can
turn the electrical part manually with a screwdriver without the need for a key.
• If you have a post ’97 engine then you might have a pink wire going into the ignition barrel connector. If there is, this is the immobiliser circuit
and if you don’t have the original bike ignition barrel (which has the resistor built in), you will need to connect a +ve feed to it with a 390 Ohm;
resistor in line to supply the correct voltage to the ECU so it will start.
• Connect up the battery. Turn on the ignition, put the Stop Switch so that it is making a contact (closed), put on some choke and then press the
starter button to turn the starter motor and (hopefully) fire up the engine. It may be worthwhile to turn the engine over for a few seconds without
any spark plugs in to get oil around the engine before you fire it up properly.
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the_fbi
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 11:29 AM |
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Resistor appears to only be 268 Ohm's which I'm guessing is the issue.
So I either need a 390 Ohm jobby or 122 Ohm one to stick in series.
How close to 390 is required?
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the_fbi
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 01:06 PM |
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Wohooo! 
Stuck in a 2nd 268 Ohm in series and she sparked right up!
No idea how anybody could say it had been run up before as it wouldn't with that resistor in there.
Won't idle for more than about 5 seconds but thats probably due to no choke, revs up fine and keeps going if revved.
Rev counter not working, not sure what I've done wrong there, unless the Acewell doesn't get the right signal.
Then again, I "found" the yellow/green wire in the engine loom, I'll have to tap another direcltly into the ECU and see if it works
there.
Nice Xmas present. Just a shame I wasted a day trying to find an issue which was just the wrong resistor somebody put in.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 03:08 PM |
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Good news
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the_fbi
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| posted on 24/12/06 at 05:14 PM |
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The weirdest thing is that the 268 Ohm resistor is EXACTLY the right one to use in parallel with the Westfield fuel sender (0-160 Ohm) to make it into
a 0-100 (100.19 actually) Ohm for the Acewell dash.
Spooky!
Handy calculator for this....
http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm
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