locoboy
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| posted on 15/4/07 at 07:22 PM |
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R1 clutch
I dont think my R1 clutch is clearing properly, with the clutch down i still cant roll the car forward when its in gear.
the arm is moving to its limit of travel too 
Any ideas what could be wrong?
ATB
Locoboy
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OX
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| posted on 15/4/07 at 07:38 PM |
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are you sure your not just taking the slack up ,the clutch arm can flop about nearly half a turn untill all the slack is taken up
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adrian
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| posted on 15/4/07 at 08:04 PM |
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hi mate , we had the same problem on my dads r1 mini,
we took the clutch cover off and found that the clutch basket had gone tight onto the output shaft (should be a tiny bit of clearance and should spin
freely - as described in the haynes manual when the securing nut is tightened)
basically we made a washer big enough to fit over the output shaft to extract it back to its original position as you tighten the nut.
p.m me and i will send you my no.
this problem is quite rare and took us a long time to suss!
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locoboy
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| posted on 15/4/07 at 08:56 PM |
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I take the slack up, then press the pedal and i have quite a lot of resistance then it frees up, if you know what i mean.......
Its not a constant amount of risistance like on a car clutch.
At the end of its travel it wont push bac and forth when in gear.
ATB
Locoboy
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smart51
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| posted on 15/4/07 at 09:05 PM |
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The clutch plates are held together by the clutch spring. pulling the spring away with the pedal doesn't actually pull the plates apart.
Either two or more plates are stuck together or the plates are not sliding freely in the grooves.
The clutch cover is easy enough to take off and only 6 bolts hold the pressure plate on. You'll probably need a new clutch cover gasket. Its
not too much work to have a look though.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 12:23 PM |
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Yep if its been standing around a while then there's a fair chance a couple of plates have stuck together.
Run the engine up to temperature in neutral and then turn off and put it in gear then rock the car back/forth with the clutch pedal down to see if it
frees itself off as the heat sometimes does the trick.
Otherwise as mentioned take the cover off and check the plates unless you want to use the "gentle persuasion" method, something along the
lines of jack up the back end, start it up in 1st gear and get the wheels moving a bit, then with the cltuch depressed, drop it off the jack. Probably
not advisable as it will stress the transmission a fair bit if it doesn't release, but has worked for me once when I was in a rush and
didn't have a spare gasket cover so couldnt risk taking the cover off. 
Chris
[Edited on 16/4/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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locoboy
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 01:29 PM |
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Should it be uniform pressure on the pedal?
Its like its operating the clutch on a cam mechanism wher you have building resistance then its over centre and it becomes real easy to move it past
that point.
All i have done is put my splined clutch arm lever on the clutch shaft and put a short cable from it to the pedal.
I dont need to take the cover off and mess about with the way the splined shaft moves the clutch do i?
Or is it still operatin in the same way is it would on the bike, ie being turned in the same direction?
I have heard of people turning the arm round???
Edit,
If your looking at the end of the clutch spindle im turning it anticlockwise............... and having done no jiggerypokery inside the clutch
housing
[Edited on 16/4/07 by locoboy]
ATB
Locoboy
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smart51
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| posted on 16/4/07 at 01:40 PM |
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The R1 cluch has a non-linar feel. You have to push hard at first then it gets easier. This is for bikers who are holding the clutch in by hand so
you that you don't kill your hand by holding the clutch lever when stationary.
I have a barnett clutch conversion which uses coil springs rather than a diaphagm spring. The feel is more linear.
It sounds like your pressure plate is moving OK but your friction plates are not releasing.
[Edited on 16-4-2007 by smart51]
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