HAL 1
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posted on 16/6/07 at 01:35 PM |
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voltage stabiliser
Hi
Is there a reliable way to wire up the stabiliser for smiths gauges to a ford pinto engine ?
I just dont trust the readout I'm getting from the gauge i.e. reading 100 degrees without thermostat fitted, with rad fan on heater fan on and
in moving traffic !
That can't be right i'm sure, Any ideas ?
I've put a wanted ad for a capillary gauge but i'd like to sort it without one if poss
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andyharding
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posted on 16/6/07 at 02:05 PM |
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You should have a thermostat fitted then a Pinto should run bang on 88C when there is good airflow.
[Edited on 16/6/07 by andyharding]
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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Macbeast
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posted on 16/6/07 at 03:35 PM |
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Not sure what you mean by "wire up stabiliser". Does this mean you're running the instruments without a stabiliser?
Semiconductor stabilisers to replace the crude mechanical ones that used to be fitted can be found on e-bay - if you can't find by doing a
search I'll have a look for info on one I bought.
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02GF74
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posted on 16/6/07 at 06:50 PM |
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some guages, e.g. old smiths , worked off a voltage stabilier - effectively 10 V.
these were a little metal box 1.5 cm x 3 cmm approx with 2 terminals: in, out and ground made via body.
they work by using a bimetallic strip and can be taken apart to be adjusted.
alternativel you can make a solid state one - see maplins - someting like a 7809 will give you 9 V that is probably good enough - or you can buy
adjustable output ones if you insist on 10 V. these will cost around £ 1.
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HAL 1
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posted on 16/6/07 at 07:15 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Macbeast
Not sure what you mean by "wire up stabiliser". Does this mean you're running the instruments without a stabiliser?
No, I've wired the stabiliser as per the instructions, the gauge starts to move within a minute or so and goes right up to just over the 100c
mark which is roughly just over half way on the dial, I'm still using the ford sender and wonder whether that makes any difference.
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tks
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posted on 16/6/07 at 07:26 PM |
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they exist 7810 ones 1,5amps max..
TI makes them.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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mark chandler
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posted on 16/6/07 at 09:51 PM |
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Sender needs to match the gauge, a naff regulator will vary temp reading with voltage, ala read low when idling lights on 12v, pick the revs up and
13.8 from alternator will give a high reading (allow a few seconds for it to settle).
Choice then is get another sender or gauge or as above pick the regulator apart and adjust the volts down so the gauge is accurate, affects everything
though, fuel gauge etc.
Just a thought, are your other gauges correct or all read high ?
[Edited on 16/6/07 by mark chandler]
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Macbeast
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posted on 16/6/07 at 09:58 PM |
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The sender probably has to be matched to the gauge so that might be your problem. But IMHO, you have to determine what is the real temperature of the
coolant - maybe it IS 100deg.
Only way I can see to do it is detatch the sender from the engine and immerse it in kettle of boiling water so you know it's 100 deg. Then play
around with the voltage to the gauge until it reads 100. You could do this by getting a variable voltage reg from Maplin - if you do, watch the
mounting of the device cos the case is not 0V or earth, ie it has to be insulated from the chassis.
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HAL 1
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posted on 17/6/07 at 01:34 PM |
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quote:
Just a thought, are your other gauges correct or all read high ?
quote:
You might just have got it there, fuel gauge is a bit erratic, that uses the same stabiliser, I think I'll change the sender first and take it
from there.
thanks to all
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HAL 1
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posted on 17/6/07 at 01:36 PM |
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how did my writing end up like that
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