DaveFJ
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posted on 1/4/08 at 08:35 PM |
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fuel level sender problems
this has me stumped!
I was getting no signal at all from my fuel level sender....
so tonight i removed it - no mean feat in itself !
It is the sender supplied by Haneline with the teleflex gauges...
I have traced the wiring and the earth connector on the top plate only connects to the top plate! it is completely isolated from the float
mechanism!
The float is connected to a very simple varible resistor with one side connected to the main bit of metal which in turn is connected to the signal
connector on top. (this is where it get weird!) the other side of the variable resistor is connected to a wire which is also connected to the sinal
connector on top! so basically the resistor is connected at either end to the same input???
I guess it must be made wrong? which is puzzling given the quality controls 'tested' sticker on top?
I tried disconnecting the wire and connecting either side to the sender and earth then switching on the ignition...
I find that the gauge will work like this but the first 10% of movement makes no difference on the gauge and it will only go up to 3/4 full...
I have tried 'tweaking' the arm in the resistor and adjusting the range of movement so the whole range is covered but i still only get
3/4....
measured the resistance at each end and got 240 Ohms at empty and 40 Ohms at full
so... any suggestions?
I would like to use this sender if possible beacuse my tank is now drilled and cut to allow it, and the tank is now full...
do you think i should fix a connector to the top plate underside so i can connect the wire to it?
one thought i had..... coulkd my under reading be because i am looking at it on battery only? do you think that i would get a different result if the
engine was running? - I was a bit loathe to run the thing with a big hole in the top of the tank!
cheers
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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stevebubs
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posted on 2/4/08 at 12:09 AM |
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Quick google on teleflex indicates the sender may
need to go down to 33 Ohms....
[Edited on 2/4/08 by stevebubs]
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02GF74
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posted on 2/4/08 at 07:37 AM |
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oooh too many words!!! can't get my head around all taht - a diagram or photo works best for me.
I've have taken senders apart and inside as you say there is some resistive element - wire - and a slider that runs over it.
one end of resistor needs t o go to body of sneder = earth.
other wire goes to the slider.
the max/min resistance is usaully 30 - 330 ohm, give or take a bit BUT will vary according to manufacturer; also in case of Land Rover sender, the
position max/min resistance can be either for empty/full or vice versa.
The other half pf the problem is the gauge - some run off the main power i.e. 12 V others use a voltage regulator 10 V.
I do not see you saying if your gauge is matched to the sender. I would expect most after market guages to run on 12 V.
If you earth the wire from your gauge, it should show full, if it doesn't, your sender can never do that.
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DaveFJ
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posted on 2/4/08 at 07:58 AM |
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cheers for that... don't know why i couldn't find it last night! obviously just frustration....
found this pdf which is for my gauges here
and they are deffinately 240/33 so will have a go at 'tweaking' the sender again...
Also, after sleeping on it, I woke up this morning and realised how the gauge had been mis-asembled! I think i can see now that teh insulator washer
has been put in the wrong place which should be easy to fix
cheers for the help - sometimes you can't see the wood fro the trees!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Macbeast
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posted on 2/4/08 at 08:02 AM |
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It's very difficult to concentrate on your description with those hips grinding away on my left. I seem to remember that the
"tested" stickers on Japanese cameras meant that about 10% of the production was tested.
Best is to try to contact someone else who has this sender and compare notes. It may be that as an after-market sender, the wiring is arranged so that
it can read bottom to top or top to bottom, if you follow.
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