orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:09 PM |
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Replacing Sierra Ignition switch.
Hi guys
My shiny new start button and ignition key switch have come from Premier Wiring to replace my standard Sierra ignition Key switch. This is the first
stage of moving all of the Sierra column switch gear onto my dash.
Now I must admit that car electrics leave me cold. I've just spent about an hour looking at the diagrams in the Haynes manual and lets just say
I'm scratching my head at what I need to do!
What I think I have found out (and please correct me if I'm wrong) is the following:
On the Sierra key switch I have the following wires which I believe are these
Yellow "R" accessories/radio not required
black/blue "50" Start
Red "30" Live
Yellow/Black "15" Ignition
Now my new key switch is just an on/off switch so the start button will take over the ignition bit, this is where it all gets a bit confusing for me
 Now I've had a go at drawing a little diagram as to what I think it should be wired like which I've attached below. Is this anywhere
near correct? As obviously I'd like to avoid setting my wiring on fire if at all possible
And please no one laugh at my diagram OK!
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:22 PM |
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You will probably want to run your push button start via a 4 blade relay. Take a switched feed from your loom to pin 30 & 85 of the relay. Connect
the low voltage side pin 86 via your start button to earth, and pin 87 (high voltage) to your starter - probably a white / red wire.
relay diagrams
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splitrivet
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:25 PM |
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So is that the old switch in your diagram or the new if its the new I'd put your button on the Ign side otherwise your switch feed is
permanently live whereas you want to feed it when you switch on igition. As paul says put a relay between to reduce current on the switch.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 12/8/08 by splitrivet]
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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Vindi_andy
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:28 PM |
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I will have a think about this tonight and get my wiring diagrams out.
If you wire it as per your drawing it is possible to turn the starter motor whilst the engine is running and this is a bad thing.
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:31 PM |
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Why do I need a relay? I'm just replacing the Sierra key switch with an on/off key switch and momentary switch. The chap at Premier wiring said
they were both up to the job?
Can't you accidentally turn the key in a normal car when the engine in running then?
Cheers
Dave
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by orbital
Why do I need a relay? I'm just replacing the Sierra key switch with an on/off key switch and momentary switch. The chap at Premier wiring said
they were both up to the job?
Can't you accidentally turn the key in a normal car when the engine in running then?
Cheers
Dave
If the switch is up to the current then you dont need a relay. So the new key switch just has two connections then does it?? If so then permanent
live (brown) to one connector and switched feed (white) from the other.
If you take a feed from the switched side and feed this to your starter button, and then run the white / red starter wire which was connected to Pin
50 originally from the other side of your button it should be as simple as that.
[Edited on 12/8/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:45 PM |
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Hi Paul,
The new key switch has three connectors on it (the diagram above has the new key switch in it).
To deal with the chance of the button getting pressed while the engine is running, is that what people have a another switch for? with the doomsday
cover over it? (or whatever it's called ) Like this:
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splitrivet
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:51 PM |
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I wouldnt bother in a car like a locost your going to know if the engines running or not.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:54 PM |
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Good point well made Bob
Cheers
Dave
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:54 PM |
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So you have the On-Off-Ign switch (£10) from Premier like the one a third of the way down??
http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/index.php?module=Website&action=Text&content=1133393725973-8435&parentContent=1133392767901-3830
If so and you have a momentary switch for your starter, then just run the two connections and ignore the starter position there. Take a switched feed
to your starter button. The toggle switch you show with 3 connections will probably allow you to either momentarily give a connection or cut the
connection so try it with a continuity meter to see what happens
[Edited on 12/8/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:10 PM |
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Bob do you mean like this?
Paul the key switch just clicks once, just off then on and thats it I think. I haven't got a continuity tester or anything like that to test it
(not that I'd know what do with one anyway! )
Thanks a lot
Dave
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:19 PM |
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I just use a really basic multimeter for most of my electrics - cost me about £5 off ebay!! Even the most basic meter will be a huge help for
jobs like this and will show you what the connections on your new switches do
cheapo meter
So how do you test your electrics then, or is it just trial and error?? 
[Edited on 12/8/08 by Paul TigerB6]
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:25 PM |
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The car was pretty much complete when I bought it, so I haven't done anything like this before  It's quite a learning curve!
Cheers
Dave
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:33 PM |
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Definately worth getting a simple multimeter then if you dont have one - i'd say its pretty much an essential piece of kit.
You will find it so much easier to do loads of jobs with one. Really easy to check circuits with a continuity meter even if its working out what wire
is what in the loom and switches make so much more sense if you can see what happens when you move the switch position
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splitrivet
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:33 PM |
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No you dont need the connection on 50 the side of the switch that goes to 50 take that straight to the starter motor less connections means less to go
wrong.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:38 PM |
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Right I'll do that Paul and cheers Bob I get what you and Paul mean now about the 50 side of things. Just one more thing. What sort of cable is
best for this job? what rating would be best?
Thanks again
Dave
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 03:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by orbital Just one more thing. What sort of cable is best for this job? what rating would be best?
Same as the existing white / red going to the starter solenoid. I'd guess at 17.5A but might be higher, ie 27.5A
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splitrivet
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 04:18 PM |
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Depends on current draw, length of run etc but I would think 3mm 44/0.30 which is rated 27.5 Amp would be more that ample.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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orbital
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 04:41 PM |
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Cheers guys, time to have a dabble!!
Dave
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Vindi_andy
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| posted on 13/8/08 at 08:29 AM |
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Fair comment but its easier to catch a button acccidentally than to turn an ignition key. And on more modern cars there is a mechanical device within
the ignition switch to stop this ie when the key is turned to the strart position and returns to the ign position it is prevented from being turned to
the start pos again until the key is turned to the off position. I know cos this is the case in my daily driver.
Was only trying to be helpful
quote:
Originally posted by orbital
Can't you accidentally turn the key in a normal car when the engine in running then?
Cheers
Dave
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