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New Builder - Haynes Chassis
RichardRichard - 8/6/13 at 04:04 PM

Hi All!

As you may have guessed from the title, I have the Haynes book and my 11 year old is chomping at the bit for us to build our own.

I'm going to build the chassis from scratch as I dare say most of you have rather than buy a built one.

The plan is to make it look (on the outside) just like the original Lotus Seven's from the sixties rather than just another kitcar.

I think we are going to go down the Mazda MX5 route as these are more plentiful and modern thanthe sierra's of old.

I have downloaded (a while back) the addition that I found on a ebsite to the items that need changing for MX5 build rather than Sierra.

A few questions before I get started, and any tips you have would be great to be honest as you have been there and done it!

I'm thinking of using 2mm section rather than 1.5mm as per in the book for more strength - or is this overkill?

My Mig is a Gasless one and welds very nicely to be honest and I've always used Gasless rather than Gas.

Is the book chassis strong enough as it is or have you done extra strengthening? It looks quite flimsy with not much reinforcement for crash protection etc?

I'm sure there will be more questions as I get into it but I plan to order the steel shortly.

Thanks

Rich

dave-69isit - 8/6/13 at 04:26 PM

hello welcome to the forum all u need to do is add more triangulation in to the sides if you feel u need it

Aaron_n_Sim - 8/6/13 at 05:10 PM

Welcome to the nut house.

The book chassis happily puts up with the weight and torque of a V8 so I'd not worry!

Aaron

RichardRichard - 8/6/13 at 05:19 PM

Thanks, it was more for crash protection though that I was thinking.

Not Anumber - 8/6/13 at 05:35 PM

The Chris Gibbs/ Martin Keenan designed chassis in the Haynes is pretty strong and capable. It uses more metal than the original Ron Champion book chassis and it's more rigid.

Though a Haynes will be larger than the early Series 1, 2 & 3 Lotus 7 (it's still a bit larger than the current production Caterham) there's no reason why you cant get the same look.

It doesnt take much to really change the look of these cars even when they are built. If you look at my archive pictures you will see my Indy looks quite different with a colour change to BRG + yellow and windscreen screen. Since then Ive replaced the bucket seats with small saloon car seats and am about to add a spare wheel on the back and recover the dash.

Which of the early Lotus 7's are you aiming to emulate ?

RichardRichard - 8/6/13 at 05:41 PM

Thanks for the post.

I found pictures of a 1962 7 on google in green, anything like that to be honest - I just prefer the classic look to the big alloys and roll bar type if you know what I mean.

Not Anumber - 8/6/13 at 06:21 PM

Its a very clean look. Mine came with a roll bar and though it is a safety feature the car looked better when I took it off for cleaning and i'm tempted to consign it to the loft.
There seems to be no compulsion to have one from an IVA, MOT or insurance persepctive, though of course there is a personal safety consideration.

I know what you mean about alloys. I'm keeping half an eye out for some steel rims with chrome hub caps that will take a decent tyre width. The closest ive spotted so far are some Hyundai rims, are a close lookalike to wheels used on the Lotus 7 Series 2 and 3 demonstrators which would look the part and just need simple lugs welded to the bolt face to retain chrome hub caps.

deezee - 8/6/13 at 06:36 PM

quote:
Originally posted by RichardRichard
Hi All!

I'm thinking of using 2mm section rather than 1.5mm as per in the book for more strength - or is this overkill?

Thanks

Rich


I used 2mm box section and calculated its impact on total build weight is marginal. So 2mm is just fine. In fact i couldn't find exact steel for half the sizes and just went with similar. Especially wishbones. Mine are marginally thicker.

Talon Motorsport - 8/6/13 at 08:59 PM

I'd just go and buy a part finished GBS Zero it would be much quicker...

RichardRichard - 8/6/13 at 09:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Talon Motorsport
I'd just go and buy a part finished GBS Zero it would be much quicker...


I'd rather build one myself from scratch and time is of no constraint or bearing so not sure on your comments or why there made? You were one of the names I was going to contact for steels on a recommendation - 'll take it you'd rather now that people purchased cars nearly built of a different make then...

Not Anumber - 8/6/13 at 09:43 PM

I think you'll find Phil is pulling your leg. Its all part of the banter on here.

mark chandler - 8/6/13 at 09:44 PM

Mine is scratch built based losely upon the Ron champion book, smaller than the Haynes, if you look at an original one in the flesh its even smaller!

Using steel wheels, higher profile tyres and small axles will give you the original look.

black fingernail - 8/6/13 at 09:45 PM

Building your own car from the ground up is one of the most satisfying things you can do. Dont be put off by the 'buy it now!' brigade. You and your son will learn so much. Just recently on here someone pointed out a sticker on a car that just about summed it up, it said something like, 'IF YOU DID'NT BUILD IT - IT'S JUST TRAFFIC'

phil clegg - 14/6/13 at 10:50 PM

i built my own chassis,added a couple of tubes cross brace under diff,and sleeves in sides to add side impact bar later for competing,mine has alfa v6,competes in autosolos,chassis seems good to me,allthough i would buy a bare chassis next time as it is not cost effective to build,i am near traford park this sunday competing if you want to look at a finished car,also next week i am competing at lymn truck stop, there should be another haynes car entered aswell, chance to look at 2 cars not far from you....phil 07957617548