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Coolant reroute
FFMan - 17/8/20 at 02:19 PM

As i intend my MX5 based roadster as a track car, i'm interested in the doing the coolant reroute recommended for hard working MX5 engines.

Plus i'm not convinced the cooling system is working that well as it came to me, and rather than try and sort it, i'm planning the reroute.

there are kits available bu they are expensive and https://coolant-reroute.com/index.html explains very well what is required.

I was wondering do the parts listed work for Haynes roadster with polo radiator as well does anyone know ?

Gord - 17/8/20 at 06:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by FFMan
As i intend my MX5 based roadster as a track car, i'm interested in the doing the coolant reroute recommended for hard working MX5 engines.

Plus i'm not convinced the cooling system is working that well as it came to me, and rather than try and sort it, i'm planning the reroute.

there are kits available bu they are expensive and https://coolant-reroute.com/index.html explains very well what is required.

I was wondering do the parts listed work for Haynes roadster with polo radiator as well does anyone know ?



I bought the alloy thermostat and blanking plate for the top of the old thermostat housing housing from Skid Nation, then made up my own pipes from the rear of the head to the radiator from of 32mm alloy & silicone pipes.
The pipe from the new thermostat housing at the rear of the head just attaches to the radiator, where the old pipe from the front thermostat housing would have went.
Depending on what you have planned you can either blank off the old thermostat housing or remove it completely and fit a 31mm core plug into the head.
If you call Skid Nation they will sell you the specific parts that you require, I have now removed the original thermostat housing and fitted a core plug into the head. If you send me your email address i can send you some pics over.

FFMan - 17/8/20 at 08:57 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Gord
quote:
Originally posted by FFMan
As i intend my MX5 based roadster as a track car, i'm interested in the doing the coolant reroute recommended for hard working MX5 engines.

Plus i'm not convinced the cooling system is working that well as it came to me, and rather than try and sort it, i'm planning the reroute.

there are kits available bu they are expensive and https://coolant-reroute.com/index.html explains very well what is required.

I was wondering do the parts listed work for Haynes roadster with polo radiator as well does anyone know ?



I bought the alloy thermostat and blanking plate for the top of the old thermostat housing housing from Skid Nation, then made up my own pipes from the rear of the head to the radiator from of 32mm alloy & silicone pipes.
The pipe from the new thermostat housing at the rear of the head just attaches to the radiator, where the old pipe from the front thermostat housing would have went.
Depending on what you have planned you can either blank off the old thermostat housing or remove it completely and fit a 31mm core plug into the head.
If you call Skid Nation they will sell you the specific parts that you require, I have now removed the original thermostat housing and fitted a core plug into the head. If you send me your email address i can send you some pics over.


thanks - if i can work out how to, i'll send you my email address. Pictures would be useful.

What do you use for a temp gauge and where is the sender. I have installed a separate temp gauge and sender but its outside the thermostat loop at the moment but only temporary.

How do you activate the fan, standard ecu driven. I was aiming for stand alone switch independant of ecu as i plan an ecu upgrade later.

Gord - 17/8/20 at 09:15 PM

thanks - if i can work out how to, i'll send you my email address. Pictures would be useful.

What do you use for a temp gauge and where is the sender. I have installed a separate temp gauge and sender but its outside the thermostat loop at the moment but only temporary.

How do you activate the fan, standard ecu driven. I was aiming for stand alone switch independant of ecu as i plan an ecu upgrade later.



I use a TIM mechanical temperature gauge, the sensor is fitted in the alloy re-route spacer at the rear of the head, the ecu coolant sensor is also fitted here.
I run an ME221 ecu which activates the coolant fan (also have an independent switch for manual override).
On a standard ecu the coolant temp sensor for your fan is fitted on your original thermostat housing on the front of the head, you can replace the top of this thermostat housing with a blanking plate, the blanking plate can be specified with a threaded hole in it, this is so that you can keep the original coolant/fan sensor and your fan will work as normal. You can easily fit a switch to use as an override while keeping the auto fan, the problem with only having a switch to control the fan is that you could walk away from it while it is running and cause overheating issues.
One of the biggest differences to coolant temperature for my car was to make some ducting, this seals the nose cone entrance to the radiator so that the air has to flow through the radiator. That combined with lots of bonnet vents to allow the hot air to escape probably made the biggest difference, I also have an oil cooler fitted and the oil temps generally sit at 95c on the track. I don't really use it on the road, but when I do it runs far too cold, coolant about 80c and oil about 75c.

FFMan - 17/8/20 at 09:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Gord
thanks - if i can work out how to, i'll send you my email address. Pictures would be useful.

What do you use for a temp gauge and where is the sender. I have installed a separate temp gauge and sender but its outside the thermostat loop at the moment but only temporary.

How do you activate the fan, standard ecu driven. I was aiming for stand alone switch independant of ecu as i plan an ecu upgrade later.


I use a TIM mechanical temperature gauge, the sensor is fitted in the alloy re-route spacer at the rear of the head, the ecu coolant sensor is also fitted here.
I run an ME221 ecu which activates the coolant fan (also have an independent switch for manual override).
On a standard ecu the coolant temp sensor for your fan is fitted on your original thermostat housing on the front of the head, you can replace the top of this thermostat housing with a blanking plate, the blanking plate can be specified with a threaded hole in it, this is so that you can keep the original coolant/fan sensor and your fan will work as normal. You can easily fit a switch to use as an override while keeping the auto fan, the problem with only having a switch to control the fan is that you could walk away from it while it is running and cause overheating issues.
One of the biggest differences to coolant temperature for my car was to make some ducting, this seals the nose cone entrance to the radiator so that the air has to flow through the radiator. That combined with lots of bonnet vents to allow the hot air to escape probably made the biggest difference, I also have an oil cooler fitted and the oil temps generally sit at 95c on the track. I don't really use it on the road, but when I do it runs far too cold, coolant about 80c and oil about 75c.


you need the reroute spacer to fit the stat at the back don't you ?

I don't have a temp sensor for the fan in the stat housing. Mine is NB. I think the ecu drives it but it doesn't at the moment so opted for independent sensor/switch.

so for me i am think stat cover with thread for fan switch, and spacer at rear for my durite gauge sensor ? i'd prefer to delete the whole front housing and use a core plug, but then i'd need to thread the fan switch also into the spacer.

Gord - 17/8/20 at 09:39 PM

I’m not sure if this link will work, if it does there’s a few pics of my engine bay.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ebjtgzyew6wkwb/AAApibZUYP19TS-ToNcdcBNaa?dl=0

FFMan - 28/8/20 at 05:33 PM

i've got the spacer block etc from skid nation.

I opted for the core plug rather than the thermostat blanking plate, but it looks as if you need to remove the timing belt and cams (?) to get the thermostat housing out. Is it bolted in ?

Where is the route for the water that heats the manifold and throttle body. The small hose comes off the thermostat at the front, routes to the TB, then to the manifold but i can't see a return. Is it via the manifold back into the block somewhere you can't see ? in which case i need to blank that off some how or water will come out of there ?

Gord - 28/8/20 at 09:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by FFMan
i've got the spacer block etc from skid nation.

I opted for the core plug rather than the thermostat blanking plate, but it looks as if you need to remove the timing belt and cams (?) to get the thermostat housing out. Is it bolted in ?

Where is the route for the water that heats the manifold and throttle body. The small hose comes off the thermostat at the front, routes to the TB, then to the manifold but i can't see a return. Is it via the manifold back into the block somewhere you can't see ? in which case i need to blank that off some how or water will come out of there ?


Core plugs looks much neater, you need to take off the timing belt (you may need to take the cam wheels off too) to remove the metal plate which covers two bolts holding the thermostat housing on. Put the core plug in and then bolt a piece of bar or similar over the core plug to prevent it coming out (this happened to mine while it was on the rolling road) , using the two bolt holes, then replace the plate, and timing belt its all pretty straight forward
Your correct he water pipe returns via the inlet manifold, you just cap this off, use something heavy duty as it gets very hot. I put a bit of pipe over it and capped the pipe with a bolt and jubilee clips.

FFMan - 28/8/20 at 09:23 PM

i think removing the cam belt etc can wait for another day - see how i feel tomorrow. i have the core plug, but need to make a blanking plate if i go that route so its swings and roundabouts.

Leeroy06 - 29/8/20 at 06:53 AM

The manifold throttle body and oil filter housing are all fed in tandem from the back of the engine right by where your new return is going to be. If you are deleting the front neck for a core plug then just tap in a fitting anywhere into your pipes at the front of the engine then connect to that

Gord - 29/8/20 at 07:23 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Leeroy06
The manifold throttle body and oil filter housing are all fed in tandem from the back of the engine right by where your new return is going to be. If you are deleting the front neck for a core plug then just tap in a fitting anywhere into your pipes at the front of the engine then connect to that


I’m sure he said it was a 1.6, which don’t have the oil warmer.

Leeroy06 - 29/8/20 at 07:42 AM

My bad guess I didn't read properly. Too early in the day