Rosco86
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| posted on 14/12/14 at 08:33 PM |
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Well had a full day on the car today, got my front hubs fitted then cracked on with my rear wishbones,
I had offered up some rod ends on my rear hubs, and checked with a 13" wheel template from team dynamics, and they will fit
I don't no why but I have the latest book with the new 10mm longer wishbones but the jig drawings look like they haven't been changed, so
I had made my jigs to that, then when I had made a wishbone and checked the bush centres they were 10mm short, to say I was unhappy was an
understatement, I can't believe there's nothing on the amendments page just to give you a heads up, I think i will get away with it as I
have wound my rod ends out 5mm and I might skim 5mm off the matting face on the stub axle or put a spacer behind the hub, so a std driveshaft fits
The rod ends are still in the tube insert a full 1" and they are only threaded that much so that's ok, just didn't really want them
wound out to far
Just got to sort some spaces and washers out for either side of the rod ends
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rdodger
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| posted on 15/12/14 at 08:19 PM |
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Lovely build. Some really nice fabrication.
What rod ends are you using? M12 or 1/2"?
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Rosco86
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| posted on 15/12/14 at 08:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Lovely build. Some really nice fabrication.
What rod ends are you using? M12 or 1/2"?
1/2" just that bit bigger, seems the size most people use from my searches
I like to get a bit done most nights, i got a spot of paint on a few of my sierra bits, only a thin coat so probably give them another coat
[Edited on 15/12/14 by Rosco86]
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Ugg10
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| posted on 15/12/14 at 08:48 PM |
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Some nice work, cracking project.
Stating the obvious, the template you did for the wheels also had to clear the calipers which is where it will foul if any where. I would double check
with the caliper in place on the disc as well.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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Rosco86
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| posted on 20/12/14 at 07:56 PM |
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Got my rear wishbones back from the welders and built up my rear hubs and got it all together also put my front hubs back on
Fitted the old calliper to double check clearance, it's just the handbrake bit that needs modifying but I had read about this already
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bart
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| posted on 20/12/14 at 11:17 PM |
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good build keep going
BE ALERT > BRITAIN NEEDS LERTS
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Rosco86
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| posted on 22/12/14 at 07:35 AM |
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after sleeping on this a couple of nights, im going to remake the rear wishbones so the rod ends are straight, and have a bend in the side tubes, its
not because of the angle its more to do with the clearance either side of the hub, as when you wind the joints in and out the gap changes, also they
could do with being 5mm longer to suit std drive shafts, as the jig drawing in the book was wrong
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Rosco86
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| posted on 26/12/14 at 08:28 PM |
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Well got a bit of time on my mk2 rear wishbones today, decided against the bend so notched them on the angle instead
I'm thinking about putting a tube here, notched round the two
And a tube at the back, obviously longer
These tubes are 25mm diameter, does anyone think I need a diagonal, I could use 19mm tube, just trying to keep the weight down, I have seen rear
wishbones with no diagonals just two cross bars like in my pictures
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Rosco86
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| posted on 27/12/14 at 03:29 PM |
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Got a bit more done this morning
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Rosco86
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| posted on 28/12/14 at 08:18 PM |
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Well had a good day, went and collected an engine from Malc at Yorkshire engines, was a long drive there and back, left at 7:30 and got home about
2:30
It's a 2010 zx10-r
And a fancy shot of my garage
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YODI
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| posted on 29/12/14 at 09:46 PM |
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Watching this now, keep up the good work mate
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BigMac
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 08:31 PM |
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Lovely job so far, methodical, great quality and looks great- I will watch with interest! Great job!
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Rosco86
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 09:55 PM |
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Cheers for the comments!
Sat down with my bike loom and labeled every plug using the wiring diagram to work out what's what
I think I'm going to use the bike loom as a base and extend and alter it to suit
Oh how I love my label machine!
Also my mate gave me a hoist, it was filthy so gave it a good clean and re grease, also shortend the loop chain from about 4 meters to a small hoop
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Rosco86
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| posted on 31/12/14 at 06:01 PM |
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Bit more done today, had my dad helping me today!
Got the engine slung up so it's picking it up somewhere near level of how it will sit in the car
Then decided to make a trolly for the rsj as the clamp I had didn't slide very wheel
Then we made a trolly to sit the engine on, so we could drop the car over and move it around, then once happy with the position I get get the mounting
cradle sorted without having to have it dangling in mid air
I can rase the car up or down to alter the mounting height, I'm just waiting to hear back from AB performance on his zx10 sump height, I'm
hoping to have the underside of the sump flush with the underside of the car
I need to decide on position next, from the pictures I've seen most seem to be mounted towards the rear of the engine bay
But some seem to be straight and some to be on an angle parallel with the side rail, on reading it looks like the output flange and the diff flange
are supposed to be parallel, if anyone could help out that would be great
Thanks for looking
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 31/12/14 at 06:18 PM |
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Good work so far !
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 31/12/14 at 06:24 PM |
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Nice to see a scratch build take shape 
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Rosco86
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| posted on 1/1/15 at 12:56 PM |
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Cheers, slowly getting there!
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Rosco86
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| posted on 1/1/15 at 01:16 PM |
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Just been looking at engine position and I'm sort of happy with this current position
Running the engine dead inline it seems to put the output shaft in a good position
If I turn the engine so it's parallel to the outer chassis rail it just skews the output shaft but doesn't improve the position for the
prop
And from what I've read it's better for the flanges to be parallel
In this position the total prop length would be 1460mm but I could move the engine back 50mm if I moved the passenger footwell upright back
I have strung a ling between and it's at an angle from the horizontal of about 4 deg, I take it I will still need a 2 piece prop with a centre
bearing and a slight kink in the centre so the UJ's aren't running straight
My main doubt is the more photos of people builds I look at the more seem to have the engine skewed
If anyone could agree or disagree that would be great!
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Rosco86
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| posted on 1/1/15 at 03:01 PM |
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Few exhaust clearance pics
That's looking straight at the side
That's looking straight down the axis of the exhaust ports
And that's a ruler coming straight out of the port
Hopefully I might be able to drop the engine down a tad more, just waiting on AB performance to give me some sump dimensions
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CosKev3
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| posted on 3/1/15 at 10:20 AM |
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Great pics and workmanship! 
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Rosco86
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| posted on 5/1/15 at 09:08 PM |
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Well spoke to AB performance today, real nice chap with some good ideas backed up with some good evidence,
So I've moved it again, haha
Think I've got clearance around everything that I need to have
So Tatley off the haynes forum who lives not to far from me has kindly lent me his body work so I can mock things up
Looking a bit like a car!
There's a bit of clearance over the top, this is saturn body work but I'm holding that the exquinox may be has a bit more
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rdodger
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| posted on 5/1/15 at 10:01 PM |
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What's the thinking behind the position of the engine? Is it just for clearance?
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Rosco86
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| posted on 6/1/15 at 08:22 PM |
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Engine position thoughts
Access to all areas of the engine, to save removing the engine if anything needs replacing
Keeping some weight upfront to help keep some heat in the tyres
Height wise, keep the sump flush with the bottom of the chassis, this means you can run the whole car an inch lower than if the sump was sitting below
by an inch,
I thought this was really good advice and made a lot of sense
On the piss, just seems to fit better for the exhaust and loads are mounted like this so must be ok for the prop
I don't want to drop the engine down as I want the underside flush, and an inch wouldn't solve the problem, looks like I'm going to
have to mod the bonnet with a scoop or just use a filter like you say and let it sit out the top, also I've got to refit the top injectors,
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CosKev3
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| posted on 6/1/15 at 10:01 PM |
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If it's track only the bonnet being cut/filter sticking out isn't a problem,just if IVA'ing would be a harder job.
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Rosco86
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| posted on 9/1/15 at 08:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
If it's track only the bonnet being cut/filter sticking out isn't a problem,just if IVA'ing would be a harder job.
Yeah, I will have to make a nice air box I think
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