Half Finished
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| posted on 12/6/23 at 08:57 AM |
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After a long few days in the garage, it's now a rolling chassis!
 
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Prof_Cook
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| posted on 12/6/23 at 07:13 PM |
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Looks really good!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/6/23 at 06:27 AM |
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superb progress and a fantastic workshop
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Half Finished
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| posted on 13/6/23 at 10:24 AM |
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Thank you for the feedback.
Has anyone requested a VIN number from the DVLA recently? What's your experience been like?
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 08:06 AM |
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I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.
Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 08:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Half Finished
I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.
Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.
I did my clips roughly six inches apart down the transmission tunnel, the other distances were more constrained by where the bends were going to be.
The plan I used was that if they can move, they can fail. So at it went round the corner I would add an extra bracket.
I personally went for a pedal related brake switch as per the donor car. I'd heard some horror stories about trying to get a pressure based brake
switch working, and I thought having the brake switch left at the pedal was going to be easier to set up.
The bias valve is an interesting one, here's my original question with a few answers;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=211283
In the end I kept it;
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I did my clips roughly six inches apart down the transmission tunnel, the other distances were more constrained by where the bends were going to be.
The plan I used was that if they can move, they can fail. So at it went round the corner I would add an extra bracket.
I personally went for a pedal related brake switch as per the donor car. I'd heard some horror stories about trying to get a pressure based brake
switch working, and I thought having the brake switch left at the pedal was going to be easier to set up.
The bias valve is an interesting one, here's my original question with a few answers;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=211283
In the end I kept it;
Thank you, I did spot your thread. But that link for the diagram is dead. Where do the lines run to on your picture please? Two out from the bias
valve and one more from the master cylinder?
I did save the brake switch from the donor, I'll just use that then. Pedal box is on the to do list as well.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:54 AM |
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Does this help;
It was the loop back through the master cylinder that I could never figure out. If you just look at the valve first, you have one input (A), that goes
to three outputs, front left, front right and rear. I don't know why the front left loops back through but I replicated it.
[Edited on 23-6-23 by Slimy38]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:59 AM |
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This post has an interesting solution to the brake switch;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=200618
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 11:03 AM |
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Thank you for the info, I'll see how far I get with it this weekend. I need to get the brakes working so I can get it down the ramp leading to
the workshop.
I'm starting an expat job later this year. I've not worked out what to do with the chassis yet...
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Half Finished
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| posted on 22/9/23 at 02:05 PM |
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Just a quick update, I moved to Hungary since my last post and life has been manic!
I cleaned up the brakes and painted them with POR15 caliper paint. They look pretty good finished.
 
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My priority was getting the handbrake working, so that I could move the chassis without it crashing down a steep ramp from the garage.
This is a mix of Sierra and MX5 parts. I've got an issue with the cables fowling the chassis as they exit from the caliper, I still need to
modify this.
 
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I hired a box trailer and drove a 3000(!) mile round trip.
 
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And the new garage even has a pit!
 
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I'm now looking at the parts needed to complete, I had a few questions if anyone knows and could help please?
-Fuel system, Am I best sticking with the MX5 sender or using an out of tank pump? I see that both variants of fuel tank are available.
-Brake lines, has anyone used the made to order parts from Hel Performance? The builder is slick and they are just £29.99 per line? available in
Europe too
https://auto.helperformance.com/custom-car-braided-brake-lines
-Shocks and springs, based on other threads I'm going to get GAZ shocks, 14" open, 9.5" closed. with 8" x 250 lbs. & 8" x
350 lbs. springs.
-Are GAZ gold shocks worth the extra? and is there any appreciable difference between 1.9" or 2.25" springs?
-Bodywork, I'm going to get the full set from Equinox. But I've added the steel supports already at the back. Will I be able to fit the rear
panel or will I be cutting stuff away?
[Edited on 9/22/2023 by Half Finished]
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