adithorp
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| posted on 20/12/14 at 11:43 PM |
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Tank looks nice but... what's the point of the sump when the feed/outlet pipe isn't from the sump?
Also it there a baffle between sump and tank and why is the sump so shallow?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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bart
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| posted on 21/12/14 at 12:19 AM |
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outlet is fed from sump just comes out higher up for good welding.and yes the sump has a top baffel with down pointing swaged holes to main tank .
also vertical baffel in main tank . total about 36 ltr
[Edited on 21/12/14 by bart]
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bart
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| posted on 21/12/14 at 08:58 PM |
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had a slow day but did finish the position of the rack
checked all the steering joint angles and they remain within the maximum stated.
need to add some cross braces still but happy with the outcome.
also checked clearance round pedals that's still workable as well.
 
Description
 
Description
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Rosco86
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| posted on 21/12/14 at 10:07 PM |
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Coming on nicely, i dont think i will get away with car building on christmas day!
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bart
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| posted on 22/12/14 at 09:24 PM |
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jeep
hi all
did not do anything directly on the car today
ordered some bits to keep me going over xmas and did some planning.
went up to see my mate who lets me borrow his big lathe and milling machines when I need and did some
mods to a parting off tool I need to make the engine spacers on my small lathe
brought it as fits my myford lathe - total rot not with out some milling with some very hard teeth cutters - hey ho ! ebay !
any way did some wiring mods to his 99% original willy's jeep , he now has a horn that works .
its a total pig to start being 6 volt , I've asked him to let me convert to 12v but he's having nothing of it . we will see when he has to
push start it.
he's just put a new steering box in , but it still brings a whole new meaning to vague steering ,---- sort of point and pray .
and the brakes are like old Harley Davidson brakes , I call then weekend brakes , you stamp on the pedal one weekend and eventually stop next week end
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his other car is a full race tuned porche gt2 ------- chalk and cheese !
no accounting of what goes through a petrol heads head eh !
ps: jeep sounds sweet when started runs smoother than a lot of modern cars !!!!!
 
Description
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bart
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| posted on 23/12/14 at 06:16 PM |
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steering problems and uncool rant
well first the good news
my modification to my new parting off tool works a treat.
now the bad news
I cant get the feed from my steering column anywhere near correct , thought I had , but it was B------s " total B-------s.
loads of solutions all C--p , or put me back 2 months.
1) make a new chassis 150 mm longer maybe even 200 mm longer
2) have new uprights made !!
3) there's a small possibility that new design steering arms might do it
4) burn the fin garage down !!
rant over , i'm going to have a hot bath and some thing to eat , just might be I cant see the wood for the trees ."I hope"
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 23/12/14 at 07:46 PM |
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What's the problem with the column/rack exactly? The column won't mate to the rack? My main question would be why you are using a handed
rack on a single seater? Building a single seater means you can use a made to measure Titan rack or one of the many off the shelf single seater
racks.
One of my little projects to make a converter plate so that the steering arm is on the top of a Cortina Geo' Rally Design upright so the rack
and column don't interfere with the pedal box.
Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.
Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.
Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.
www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk
callan@t89.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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bart
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| posted on 23/12/14 at 08:25 PM |
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its all to do with the low height of the rack. and to get clearance of the column over feat ( size 12 ) it has in its present configuration
got to take a dramatic dive down to the rack and as you say with the offset escort rack its made worse , a central rack may help its something I had
already thought about.
one of the "solutions" is to use the left hand arm on the right hand side and visa versa
this will enable the rack track ends to act above the arm not below
this adds about 75 mm ish to the height of the rack from the floor this may help I need to play more tomorrow
this does improve the geometry of the steering as well . the only problem is it leaves the disk to close to the track rod end ( heat )
looked at moving the disk that's a no go with the calliper mount will only get 3mm at most.
as I said maybe some custom steering arms are the answer , just need to think it through.
I have tried to post every process to show the kind of thought's that we all go through with problems
maybe I should keep some things to myself , I was really just letting off steam
I did also consider using a clutch on the gear lever but have thought better of it. this would have meant I could use a left hand steering rack.
I might leave it for a couple of days and come back to it . sometimes the best solution , to find a solution
[Edited on 23/12/14 by bart]
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slingshot2000
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 posted on 23/12/14 at 09:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bart
Description
Coozer will like that, I bet !
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coozer
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| posted on 23/12/14 at 10:35 PM |
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Damn right, I want one!!!!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 24/12/14 at 06:55 AM |
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On a V6 Caterham I was building, the headers interfered with ALL column routes, so the column went over the top of the headers to the front of the
chassis and into a 90 degree steering coupling. It was a milled aluminium block of two halves with a splined input shaft on 2 faces with internal
gears, and then through a short shaft to the rack that was rotated slightly.
This could be a simple solution for you?
Apologies, but I can't find details of it at the moment, but a call to Russell of RS Performance (the people who build the SC V6 and V8 Levante,
Caterham's) will give you the answer as he had to fit them on all of his cars...
quote:
Originally posted by bart
well first the good news
my modification to my new parting off tool works a treat.
now the bad news
I cant get the feed from my steering column anywhere near correct , thought I had , but it was B------s " total B-------s.
loads of solutions all C--p , or put me back 2 months.
1) make a new chassis 150 mm longer maybe even 200 mm longer
2) have new uprights made !!
3) there's a small possibility that new design steering arms might do it
4) burn the fin garage down !!
rant over , i'm going to have a hot bath and some thing to eat , just might be I cant see the wood for the trees ."I hope"
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bart
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| posted on 24/12/14 at 09:37 AM |
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looks like rs performance have gone under
but now you have given me an idea to look for ! thanks Steve
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cloudy
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| posted on 24/12/14 at 12:49 PM |
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Also have you looked at double cardan joints from woodward? Will need bearing support on the lower steering shaft, but will give up to 64 degrees of
angle and if you split the angle correctly, very little variable velocity associated with high angle UJs
James
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 24/12/14 at 02:34 PM |
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thanks every one . im close to a solution now.
just needed tea . more tea . and a clear head . oh and several attempts. I had looked at double jionts and I already have a bearing support so I
might use one if I cant get the last bit..
just considering moving the rack 10mm off ctr and resticting one side. don't need all the travel on the rack. Any way. so loosing 20mm is no big
deal.
as I say just thinking through implications.
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bart
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| posted on 24/12/14 at 04:21 PM |
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yep going to need a Woodward double joint
any one brought one in the uk
I will post a separate request on the forum as well ketch a wider audience
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bart
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| posted on 26/12/14 at 07:03 PM |
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hi all
well sorry ive been quite its been all about my steering problem
tried thinking about all sorts just could not find a solution , inc new custom rack and as a last resort I was really considering a longer chassis.
any how ! I do have a solution
the plan
1) use a lhd rack
2) split up the pedal box clutch mounted over to the left and accelerator and brake mounted over to the right ( its not that far apart extra 60 mm
steering column will now run down between the clutch and brake , making for a good angle feed, means there will be no quick access between clutch and
brake , but its nit impossible just awkward .
so unless anyone can think of a reason not to do it then that's the plan as soon as rally design are open or someone sells me a steering lhd
rack
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StevieB
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| posted on 26/12/14 at 09:43 PM |
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I've read a few books on single sweaters and a few have that same solution with the split pedal box, and I can't think of many reasons
you'd want to have access between clutch and brake.
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bart
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| posted on 27/12/14 at 08:24 PM |
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slow progress
well hello
ill post some pictures tomorrow as every thing is half way through.
split my brake pedal assembly up and added a new re-enforcement bar to the clutch
then proceeded to chop out the floor in the front of the chassis to be ready for a new adjustment floor ( piece of 4mm plate )
and have sussed a much better way of rack adjustment when I install the lh rack . this will also allow easier installation and better adjustment of
the pedals.
as I say pics to follow.
in between waiting for paint to dry started to final assembly front uprights. found that one of the installed wire inserts in the ally is at about 85
deg not 90 and its F----d , so that's going back to hi spec Monday if they are open, could rework it but don't see why I should.
ps: never did like my pedal adjustment frame - so good riddance to it I say .LOL.
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bart
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| posted on 28/12/14 at 09:06 PM |
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hi all
progress in preparing for left hand steering rack
picture of old front floor with brake box adjustment this has now been totally removed
 
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this is a picture of the brake box that has been split up and refabricated to allow the steering shaft to travel between the clutch and brake.
I think the clutch is now a little lonely !
 
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and the new design for the left hand steering column
it is now fitted for vertical mounting and can adjust up and down and back and forward via shims
when I shorten the steering column I will change the brackets to allow for vertical clamping
picture shows the front bulk head which needs modifying but this can be done when I fettle the frame for spraying ( soon I hope )
 
Description
tomorrow's plan is order rack and front floor panel , and finish the engine mounts.
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bart
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| posted on 29/12/14 at 10:52 PM |
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electric Reverse and other stuff
Hi all
well I thought this afternoons effort was going to be boring and was not going to post any pics but it all turned out different.
it was ""fin" cold in the garage today so I put the heater on and left it for a few hours and went and ordered the bits I needed.
when I went out I could only work with the heater pointing at me ( yes I know i'm soft )
started out making the rear brake spacers ( instead of packing washers ) and then made the spacers for the engine brackets
all very boring so I did not take any pics , I was thinking about going in about 5 pm for me dinner and was drinking a good brew contemplating what to
do next whilst waiting for bits to arrive , decide that I needed to fit the electric reverse. so got it out the box and started to have a good
look.
first I had to take the sprocket nut off and speedo sensor nut ( more on that later )
so I knocked up a sprocket holder with some old chain that I had liberated from a mate . made the job of undoing the nut easy ( well a 36mm socket and
a 4 foot power bar )
 
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sprocket holder easy peasy job now
I then fitted the reverse drive cog instead of the nut and tried several positions with the reverse electric starter.
having found a suitable position ( let me clarify that , I spent 30mins deliberating where to place it to allow for chain adjustment , it then dawned
on me the engine dose not move only the diff does " i'm an idiot " so no need to allow for movement only a small swing movement for
cog engagement) . ps i'm blaming the senior moment on lack of food.
I decided it will only take me a few minutes to make some brackets to hold it in place , and for once I was nearly correct within the hour ( ok ok ok
it was close ! ) I was finished , needs some better brackets but all seems to work well.
 
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few things I need to check , I am going to fit a dry sump so need to check oil pump and clutch cylinder
call to extreme engines tomorrow if they are back .
and then make top engine mounts . then its reflection time
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cloudy
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 08:09 PM |
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Had any thoughts on where to put the handbrake lever?
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 08:23 PM |
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hi cloudy
fitted it down the side of the seat with the grab handle sticking out the front of the seat
I think there's loads more pics round about page 2 and 3
 
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it about only one of the systems that I can say is 99% cast in stone
every thing else remains flexible
I don't weld anything fully now I can do that last before chassis paint .
going to mount the ignition key down the right hand side of the seat . I think
whilst i'm posting , front part of the aluminium floor 4mm just arrived so I know what i'm doing tomorrow
also took the plunge and ordered the dry sump system. bank account now empty
going to have to find some sub contract work in the new year !
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cloudy
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 10:06 PM |
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Must have missed that! Reckon you'll have enough elbow room to give it a good pull?
www.warnercars.com
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bart
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 10:15 PM |
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yeh I have tried it no problem .
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prawnabie
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| posted on 30/12/14 at 10:30 PM |
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What is the front handbrake cable off Bart? Looks MX5 but a bit shorter?
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