Irony
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posted on 19/8/13 at 10:41 AM |
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OT: Basic Chainsaw Handling Course????
Just bought a new house and it comes with a few trees that will need cutting down and it has a log burner. I know a couple of people who own some
woodland so I intend to ask them to let me chop up a couple of fallen trees they have. Problem is I have never used a chainsaw before and the
girlfriend is worried I'll lop my leg off. If it was me on my own I would toddle out and buy one but she wants me to go on a Chainsaw Handling
Course. Everywhere I have googled has some sort of 3-6 day course that are intended for people working in forestry. All I want is a basic course
that just keeps me safe. Any ideas?
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mookaloid
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posted on 19/8/13 at 11:18 AM |
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She is right to be concerned - They can be lethal.
I know several people who own chainsaws - none of them will lend a saw out because of the potential for disaster but they will come along and chop
stuff up for you particularly if you wave some folding green stuff in front of them
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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Daddylonglegs
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posted on 19/8/13 at 12:07 PM |
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My wife runs the North-Wilts Training Group (free plug ) and is responsible for co-ordinating all the training required by farmers etc. in the
area. Anything from delivering a calf to spraying crops to managing woodland. I also use a chainsaw for occasional jobs, and did a 2-day course with
one of the instructors. It was a Lantra 'Cross-cut & Maintenance' course. It will not teach you to fell trees, but it will teach you
how to handle the saw safely, manitain/sharpen it (which saves a fortune in chains ) and safely demolish fallen/felled trunks.
I got a card to say I had done the course which allows me to do the same work for someone else (with the correct insurance of course).
If you need any more info PM me.
HTH
John
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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JoelP
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posted on 19/8/13 at 02:10 PM |
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I bought one and just read a guide on the Internet. It's mostly obvious stuff, ie don't be a retard. Just remember that it can be bloody
dangerous. Don't think I'd use one in the air though, my jigsaw can cut massive branches when you use a long blade, and can be used one
handed.
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Canada EH!
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posted on 19/8/13 at 02:47 PM |
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If it can cut an oak log in seconds think what it can do to you.
I have spent many years using a chain saw, for beginners a saw with no larger than 16" guide bar, proper helmet with full face shield and ear
muffs, as well as heavy leather work gloves and construction boots.
Find a book which shows how to properly cut the tree, some one in the area was killed this weekend when the tree he was cutting down FELL ON HIM, this
is serious stuff, be careful!
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David Jenkins
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posted on 19/8/13 at 03:00 PM |
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A pair of those protective trousers sounds like a good idea - the sort that's full of fibres that stop the saw if it goes astray.
Unfortunately, they're expensive (but how much is your leg worth?)
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Minicooper
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posted on 19/8/13 at 03:19 PM |
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When I worked at Icelands distribution centre in flintshire, there was a chap who had his foot on a log he was attempting to cut up, the log moved and
he cut straight down his shin and took off his foot straight down at the shin level leaving him with only the heel left. He had no experience or any
sort of protective gear on, happened in a split second
David
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WillisRR
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posted on 19/8/13 at 03:41 PM |
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I heard this guy has his own training center, seems legit>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLoxKbPdWOc
[Edited on 19/8/13 by WillisRR]
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theconrodkid
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posted on 19/8/13 at 06:37 PM |
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friend of mine chopped his own head off with an electric one,as others have said,it,s a dangerous tool,better to pay someone to do it for you
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Peteff
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posted on 19/8/13 at 07:33 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Canada EH!
If it can cut an oak log in seconds think what it can do to you.
I have spent many years using a chain saw, for beginners a saw with no larger than 16" guide bar, proper helmet with full face shield and ear
muffs, as well as heavy leather work gloves and construction boots.
Chainsaw trousers stop the chain in milliseconds by jamming the clutch as well. Heavy leather gloves are not recommended. Chainsaw gloves are supple
and have a patch of ballistic material on the back of the left hand for protection from slipping off the grip. a 14" bar is plenty for backyard
firewood cutting. I recently bought a new Husqvarna 135 to replace my old saw. Use common sense when cutting and never go unaccompanied in case you
have an accident. If you cut an artery you have about 4 minutes to get attention. The average chainsaw cut is said to require 110 stitches
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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daviep
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posted on 19/8/13 at 08:09 PM |
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As long as you're a little bit scared everytime you use your saw then you will be OK.
As Joel said a 14" bar is more than adequate, when you start collecting fire wood you will be drawn to try and cut up the biggest trees you can
find, you will soon learn this is not the easiest method. Smaller limbs are quicker to cut and require less if any splitting. If you use a larger saw
than required then you will find that you have a tendancy to touch the nose of the bar in to the ground if cutting felled/fallen timber on the ground
resulting in an instantly blunt chain.
Be careful
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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JoelP
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posted on 19/8/13 at 08:46 PM |
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It was Pete who has 14 inch, mine is a little smaller :-(
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umgrybab
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posted on 19/8/13 at 09:17 PM |
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I largely agree with Joel, just don't be a retard, however their use just deserves your attention and respect. I've been using chainsaws
since I was about 10, and our smallest one was a 16". None of them had chain-brakes either as these jam up and break over the years, and I or
anyone in my family don't have any injuries related to their use. We simply took it slowly, and slowly the skill and confidence built. I mean we
used to cut over 40 cubic metres of firewood a year, so we had more chance to learn. Anyone who is mechanically minded and thinks about what they do
can pick one up and not have any issues. Someone who struggles to know the difference between their windscreen reservoir and their coolant reservoir
or struggles to gap their spark plugs should stay well away, operators course or not.
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cliftyhanger
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posted on 20/8/13 at 06:44 AM |
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I would agree.
Having bought a "power devil" chainsaw from Argos about 15 years ago, I soon learnt doing it all slowly, making sure you are not in a
silly position, and checking where you are standing (I nearly did that comedy thing where you chop the branch you are standing on!!)
The electric (and I presume petrol) saws have efficient brakes/anti-kickback. But a very good point on blunting the chains. I now buy several when I
need them (fleabay again....)
My experience would suggest electric chainsaws are better for very infrequent use. People I know who have petrol ones have terrible problems when they
are left in the shed for a couple of years....
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keithjardine
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posted on 20/8/13 at 08:30 AM |
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Log burner........ Jealous!!
You will be using the saw quite regularly to build up your wood store's, i'd go to your local Stihl/Husqvarna stockist and they will show
you how to hold the saw, how to hold yourself and also how to maintain the saw and the chain.
Remember a blunt chain will make you and the saw work harder and will lead to a mistake and potentially an injury.
Buy the best you can and be safe!
http://www.stihl.co.uk/
http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/home/
You will be splitting the logs so they fit in the burner so you'll want something like;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDMANN-LOG-HOLDER-SAW-HORSE-/380695060027?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenEquipment_HandTools_SM&hash=item58a3319e3b
This will save you doing something daft like putting your foot on the log to hold it steady......
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mcerd1
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posted on 20/8/13 at 08:50 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Peteff
quote: Originally posted by Canada EH!
If it can cut an oak log in seconds think what it can do to you.
I have spent many years using a chain saw, for beginners a saw with no larger than 16" guide bar, proper helmet with full face shield and ear
muffs, as well as heavy leather work gloves and construction boots.
Chainsaw trousers stop the chain in milliseconds by jamming the clutch as well. Heavy leather gloves are not recommended. Chainsaw gloves are supple
and have a patch of ballistic material on the back of the left hand for protection from slipping off the grip.
+1 for the proper safety gear
as Peteff says the proper stuff is designed to jam the clutch and stop the blade, the nylon fibers wrap around everything and jam it up (the boots,
trousers and jackets all have some degree of this)
heavy leather etc. does practically nothing to stop the blade...
a proper helmet with visor will stop you getting sawdust in your eyes (not fun ) and the ear defenders stop you going deaf
the proper gloves are also designed to minimise the vibration to your hands (not good for you in the long run)
my dad used to teach this - some of the stories he has would put you off for life
always remember that even with the right safety gear it still wants to kill you !!
[Edited on 20/8/2013 by mcerd1]
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Peteff
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posted on 20/8/13 at 09:10 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by cliftyhangerMy experience would suggest electric chainsaws are better for very infrequent use. People I know who
have petrol ones have terrible problems when they are left in the shed for a couple of years....
Fuel should be drained if they are being left for any length of time. Start the saw, stop it and tip the fuel out then start it again to run it out.
Check the filter in the tank while you are at it and clean the clutch housing and brake band out if you have been using it. You can buy high grade
fuel called Aspen which is ready mixed and can be left in indefinitely but it is expensive and sometimes hard to find.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Irony
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posted on 20/8/13 at 09:16 AM |
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I shall get the right safety equipment and I think a smaller saw is okay for starting with.
The most dangerous tool I own at the moment is probably the angry grinder and I like to constantly remind myself of this simple sentence.
'The minute you disrespect this tool it will disrespect you by taking part of your body'
Thanks for the guys that reccomended courses. The Wiltshire one is probably a bit far from Lincoln.
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Daddylonglegs
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posted on 20/8/13 at 11:01 AM |
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All good advice there Especially about the clothing, make sure the gloves, trousers and helmet are all specifically for chainsaw use, you can also
get spats that fit over your boots made of the same stuff, and they will help protect your tootsies better than standard work boots (chainsaws will
eat Oak so leather is no problem ).
Sharp chainsaw is also a must, the difference between slightly blunt and sharp is light years!
Useful tips:
Always put the brake on when not cutting, even if you are just moving a cut log out of the way
Watch for kick-back, it's a b1tch!!
Always try and keep body parts out-of-line with the chain, sound obvious but you would be suprised
Make sure there is no-one 'watching' that may distract you
Keep your phone handy if on your jacksie and away from civilisation
Take regular breaks, it's knackering, and tired=risky!
Another little tip I found useful, if cutting a side-branch of a thicker log/trunk, cut down in the 'V' parallel to the main log/trunk.
Chainsaws are designed to cut across wood, but will cut down the grain at 45deg, my instructor called it the 'Hamster-cut' because it
produces lots of lovely shavings
You're right, Wiltshire is along way for you to travel, (Lincolnshire is my home county ), but I thought you may be able to find a local
training organiser that might help.
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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