IanG1
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posted on 3/3/14 at 11:52 AM |
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919 Fireblade jetting/set up advise
Trying to get my head around an annoying problem I have with the fuelling of the 919 Fireblade engine in my Westfield.
Spec is standard blade airbox and paper filter, some form of jet kit is fitted as the needles are adjustable, currently clip in third groove from top
and seating and half thickness washers are in place. Main Jets are 132 and air screw is 2 turns out. Exhaust wise normal megablade headers to a
modified straight through R1 end can.
My problem is a massive flat spot/hesitation from 4 to 5K car physically jerks and holds back then once past this point it will fly up to the red line
with no problem. It only seems to happen when you plonk your foot down wanting the power, it will cruise at these revs with no problem. If the loud
pedal is used less vigorously then you can nurse it through this rev range without the same pronounced effect.
I have read after numerous searches that the middle air correction jet needs to be blanked off next to the intake trumpets as part of a jet kit, mine
are not blanked so wondered what the effect of this was. I dropped the needles one notch yesterday to see if things improved or worsened but it then
rained so not managed a test drive yet.
Any other advise or pointers appreciated as to which way to go.
Cheers
Ian
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carpmart
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posted on 3/3/14 at 12:18 PM |
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I've used raced with this engine a fair bit. Below is what I would check, in no particular order.
You've got all the vacuum hoses correctly connected?
The little breather filter under the airbox is clean?
Air Filter is clean? Why are you not running a K&N BTW?
Fuel filter clean?
Fuel pump priming and working OK?
Cleaned the bowls out in the carbs?
Blown through the jets with some air?
Got genuine plugs in? I used Iridium ones, but make sure your not getting supplied the crappy counterfeit ones off eBay?
Balanced the carbs?
I'd check everything on the list above.
You only live once - make the most of it!
Radical Clubsport, Kwaker motor
'94 MX5 MK1, 1.8
F10 M5 - 600bhp Daily Hack
Range Rover Sport - Wife's Car
Mercedes A class - Son's Car
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IanG1
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posted on 3/3/14 at 12:36 PM |
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Thanks for the reply,
Few answers,
Air Filter is clean, I thought it had a K&N in it from the sticker on the air box but found a standard one when I looked inside
Not sure what you mean by the little breather filter under the airbox, is that the small matchbox size thing with the 20mm ish pipe conected to it?
Bowls are spotless, all cleaned out and blown out with compressed air
Fuel pump seems fine, primes and runs with no problem
Genuine normal NGK plugs fitted from a reputable source
Carbs balanced
I think its more of a set up problem than a particular faulty item as it runs well otherwise?
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SPYDER
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posted on 3/3/14 at 12:43 PM |
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U2U sent. Geoff
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IanG1
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posted on 3/3/14 at 12:55 PM |
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Replied
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IainL
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posted on 3/3/14 at 05:21 PM |
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Give Andy Bates a call at AB Performance, always helped me out with these sort of questions.
Iain
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MadMaxx
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posted on 3/3/14 at 06:56 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by IanG1
Trying to get my head around an annoying problem I have with the fuelling of the 919 Fireblade engine in my Westfield.
Spec is standard blade airbox and paper filter, some form of jet kit is fitted as the needles are adjustable, currently clip in third groove from top
and seating and half thickness washers are in place. Main Jets are 132 and air screw is 2 turns out. Exhaust wise normal megablade headers to a
modified straight through R1 end can.
My problem is a massive flat spot/hesitation from 4 to 5K car physically jerks and holds back then once past this point it will fly up to the red line
with no problem. It only seems to happen when you plonk your foot down wanting the power, it will cruise at these revs with no problem. If the loud
pedal is used less vigorously then you can nurse it through this rev range without the same pronounced effect.
I have read after numerous searches that the middle air correction jet needs to be blanked off next to the intake trumpets as part of a jet kit, mine
are not blanked so wondered what the effect of this was. I dropped the needles one notch yesterday to see if things improved or worsened but it then
rained so not managed a test drive yet.
Any other advise or pointers appreciated as to which way to go.
Cheers
Ian
I have the same problem. Any chance to fix it?
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IanG1
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posted on 4/3/14 at 05:50 PM |
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Bit of an update, spoke to Andy Bates, great bloke and very helpful.
He says that the main cause of my problem is the facet fuel pump and regulator I have fitted, basically they are crap for a BEC and overwhelme the
bike carbs with pressure which causes the fluctuation as the mixture is then all aver the place. He says firstly to fit a pump from a bike which
regulates the pressure to a level suited to the carbs. He gave me some other pointers regarding filters, jets and needles which I will try out after
the pump is changed.
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jossey
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posted on 4/3/14 at 06:02 PM |
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Ian, what pressure have you got the facet pump set to...
1.5 will be fine anymore will cause issues.
People buy the wrong pumps which causes
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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IanG1
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posted on 4/3/14 at 06:04 PM |
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Not a clue mate as no way of measuring it, just picked up a pump for £25 so gonna try that when it arrives
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jossey
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posted on 4/3/14 at 06:07 PM |
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The facet pumps work fine if setup right just remember the later 919 had no fuel pump so it's all about setting it up right.
I use a facet pump as they ar new and don't have issues if setup we'll. the reg should allow you to get it working fine.
Check the oil if it's not been running right you may find a lot of fuel in the sump
[Edited on 4/3/14 by jossey]
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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davidimurray
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posted on 4/3/14 at 06:29 PM |
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It is a good idea to soak all the jets in carb cleaner. Blowing through does not get out the 'varnish' that can build up. Blew mine out 4
or 5 times with limited effect, soaked them in carb cleaner and it transformed them.
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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jossey
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posted on 4/3/14 at 06:58 PM |
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Or sonic clean them....
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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Andy B
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posted on 5/3/14 at 01:27 PM |
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Thought I would try and put the fireblade fuel supply issue into context.
The blade carbs require a very low fuel pressure to operate effectively in fact the pump should be viewed purely as a means of keeping the float bowls
full at all times.
Now if we think of the bowls as the reservoir from which fuel is pushed up the main jet by atmospheric pressure as a depression is created by airspeed
in the main throat, we can immediately see the huge problems that can be caused by over pressuring the float bowls. Bearing in mind that a single
circlip position on the needle makes a huge difference to the fuelling of the mid-range just by lifting the taper slightly, imagine the effect of
pushing fuel under pressure up the main jet, which is what happens all the time when using the facet pump. A 122 main jet can be made to function just
like a 132 because of the pressure behind it.
In an ideal world you would use a regulator to control the pressure but unfortunately these regulators are far from reliable, a simple bump in the
road can send fuel pressure soaring or drop it to almost zero. This is mainly due to the fact that inside it is purely a diaphragm and spring.
Experience has shown that no matter how you set the regulator up it will cause issues. The problem is that bike engines seem really fast even when
they are off song and I have lost count of the number of people who we have transformed the power delivery for just by junking the facet and regulator
and jetting correctly.
To demonstrate this at its extreme, a racer at Donnington left his ignition on at lunch time, the facet pump pressure forced the floats down sending
fuel up the emulsion tubes and down the cylinders. On his return the engine hydraulically locked and having taken out the plugs he cleared the lock
and went on to race....... for 1 lap. After the engine went bang we drained nearly 7 litres of fuel and oil from the sump The same car used to use
nearly double the fuel load during a race of its nearest competitor using a self regulating bike pump.
My advice would be to always use a bike pump and do not use the facet and regulator - it does not work
Hope that helps
If anyone needs more info just call me on 01449736633
Andy
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sam919
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posted on 5/3/14 at 05:33 PM |
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Good reply Andy, more usefull advice. One for cutting and pasting into the fireblade technical folder!!
I set-up the carbs on my 919 fury with different needles etc from Andys advice and it went very well. Im sure there was a point of blocking something
off?! cant remember exactly now, it was in each carb.....as it wasnt using an airbox?! memorys not that great these days although it was 6 years ago!
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IanG1
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posted on 5/3/14 at 08:09 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Andy B
Thought I would try and put the fireblade fuel supply issue into context.
The blade carbs require a very low fuel pressure to operate effectively in fact the pump should be viewed purely as a means of keeping the float bowls
full at all times.
Now if we think of the bowls as the reservoir from which fuel is pushed up the main jet by atmospheric pressure as a depression is created by airspeed
in the main throat, we can immediately see the huge problems that can be caused by over pressuring the float bowls. Bearing in mind that a single
circlip position on the needle makes a huge difference to the fuelling of the mid-range just by lifting the taper slightly, imagine the effect of
pushing fuel under pressure up the main jet, which is what happens all the time when using the facet pump. A 122 main jet can be made to function just
like a 132 because of the pressure behind it.
In an ideal world you would use a regulator to control the pressure but unfortunately these regulators are far from reliable, a simple bump in the
road can send fuel pressure soaring or drop it to almost zero. This is mainly due to the fact that inside it is purely a diaphragm and spring.
Experience has shown that no matter how you set the regulator up it will cause issues. The problem is that bike engines seem really fast even when
they are off song and I have lost count of the number of people who we have transformed the power delivery for just by junking the facet and regulator
and jetting correctly.
To demonstrate this at its extreme, a racer at Donnington left his ignition on at lunch time, the facet pump pressure forced the floats down sending
fuel up the emulsion tubes and down the cylinders. On his return the engine hydraulically locked and having taken out the plugs he cleared the lock
and went on to race....... for 1 lap. After the engine went bang we drained nearly 7 litres of fuel and oil from the sump The same car used to use
nearly double the fuel load during a race of its nearest competitor using a self regulating bike pump.
My advice would be to always use a bike pump and do not use the facet and regulator - it does not work
Hope that helps
If anyone needs more info just call me on 01449736633
Andy
Couldn't have put it better myself Andy LOL
What surprises me in my case is the the car is a 13 year old factory built car with 11 previous owners and not one has bottomed out this problem and
junked the original facet pump and regulator.
Many thanks for taking the time to give me a call after my message on your website. Nice to see good old fashioned customer service exists even when
you are not spending anything.
I will post when I have fitted the bike pump to confirm if this was the route of my problem.
Cheers
Ian
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MadMaxx
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posted on 8/3/14 at 01:13 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Andy B
Thought I would try and put the fireblade fuel supply issue into context.
The blade carbs require a very low fuel pressure to operate effectively in fact the pump should be viewed purely as a means of keeping the float bowls
full at all times.
Now if we think of the bowls as the reservoir from which fuel is pushed up the main jet by atmospheric pressure as a depression is created by airspeed
in the main throat, we can immediately see the huge problems that can be caused by over pressuring the float bowls. Bearing in mind that a single
circlip position on the needle makes a huge difference to the fuelling of the mid-range just by lifting the taper slightly, imagine the effect of
pushing fuel under pressure up the main jet, which is what happens all the time when using the facet pump. A 122 main jet can be made to function just
like a 132 because of the pressure behind it.
In an ideal world you would use a regulator to control the pressure but unfortunately these regulators are far from reliable, a simple bump in the
road can send fuel pressure soaring or drop it to almost zero. This is mainly due to the fact that inside it is purely a diaphragm and spring.
Experience has shown that no matter how you set the regulator up it will cause issues. The problem is that bike engines seem really fast even when
they are off song and I have lost count of the number of people who we have transformed the power delivery for just by junking the facet and regulator
and jetting correctly.
To demonstrate this at its extreme, a racer at Donnington left his ignition on at lunch time, the facet pump pressure forced the floats down sending
fuel up the emulsion tubes and down the cylinders. On his return the engine hydraulically locked and having taken out the plugs he cleared the lock
and went on to race....... for 1 lap. After the engine went bang we drained nearly 7 litres of fuel and oil from the sump The same car used to use
nearly double the fuel load during a race of its nearest competitor using a self regulating bike pump.
My advice would be to always use a bike pump and do not use the facet and regulator - it does not work
Hope that helps
If anyone needs more info just call me on 01449736633
Andy
Is this fuel pump good for the application?
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IanG1
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posted on 8/3/14 at 05:27 PM |
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Looks similar to the bike one I have bought, if it is self regulating i.e it cuts off when the float bowls are full with the car not running then
think it is fine for the job, the trouble with the facet pump is it just keeps pumping and relies on the regulator to sort the pressure out .( which
it does a poor job of at very low pressures suited to the bike carbs)
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MadMaxx
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posted on 8/3/14 at 06:54 PM |
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How can I verify in an easy way if it's self regulating?
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IanG1
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posted on 8/3/14 at 07:48 PM |
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Switch on the ignition and the pump if a separate switch. The pump will run for a short time to fill the float bowls then stop if self regulating. If
it just runs and runs it's not. All this without the engine running.
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