novicebuilder
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 01:58 PM |
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brake cable - How tight?
Advice on hand brake cable please; building Haynes roadster with donor sierra parts. I have fitted the handbrake and cable. I chose to follow book
instructions and fit cable keeping existing soldered nipple on one side and shorten the cable and fit a non soldered nipple on the other side drum
shoe. I wound out the cable tensioner, pulled the cable through and pulled it hand tight at the other drum brake, then cut the cable and fitted
nipple. Note there is no fluid in the brake system as flexible brake hoses not made up at this stage. I assembled the brake shoes and drum, then
tensioned up the cable tensioner and pulled handbrake. It will go 5 clicks but not hold drums still. Is cable tension insufficient? if so how do I
decide how much more to shorten the cable?
I have now made up flexible hoses so I am planning to fill and bleed brake system next. Should I fill and bleed lines first, will it make any
difference? Help please.
Many thanks
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prawnabie
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 02:06 PM |
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When you bleed the system the pistons in the cylinders will be further apart, thus giving the shoes more purchase on the drums.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 02:17 PM |
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You can't adjust the cable until the hydraulic side has adjusted itself when the pedal is pumped to bring the pistons & pads in contact with
the disc.
You can however wind the pistons out by hand to take up the slack.
Don't attempt to adjust the handbrake by tensioning the cable, the actuating lever on the callipers must return full to he stop on the calliper
body.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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gaz05
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 02:19 PM |
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You may need to use the footbrake to get the self adjusting mechanism to work.
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 04:17 PM |
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As BT says, you have to use the hydraulics first. In fact pulling the cable/lever before pumping the pistons out can damage the adjuster mechanism as
it will move further than it's designed to... keep your fingers crossed you haven't done that.
Once the foot brake has pumped the piston out and worked the h/brake adjuster, take up the slack in the cable leaving just a bit of play with the
caliper lever fully back to its stop. As the levers should be fully back you could do this before fitting the hydraulics... but resist the temptation
to pull the lever.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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prawnabie
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 05:02 PM |
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Judging by his post he has drums + pads not callipers.
Once you have bled the system the shoes will be pushed out buy the wheel cylinder. Then adjust the handbrake as the shoes will be in the correct
position.
Shaun
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 05:32 PM |
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Ooops, looks like we all missed that.
Again with drums the auto-adjuster has to work or you just pull the internal h/brake lever untill it's stopped by the hub.... but they (drum
auto-adjusters) don't work very well anyway. Adjust it manually by clicking out the ratchet quadrant, 1 click at a time with the drum off,
refitting the drum and test (a couple of blows on the drum will help centralise things) then repeat until you can feel the shoes just rubbing/touching
but not binding. Like the caliper brakes do this with the cable slack and the levers fully back, then adjust the cable.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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novicebuilder
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| posted on 24/5/14 at 07:19 PM |
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yes they're rear drum brakes. Thanks for all the advice. Very helpful.
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