Joshy
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 05:55 PM |
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Pre-IVA check (photo heavy!)
Hi everyone!
I'm a long-time lurker of this forum, and occasional poster. I started building my Haynes Roadster in 2007 (aged 16), and now I (finally!) have
my IVA booked for Thursday morning at Kidderminster. University and other projects got in the way...
I have made heavy use of self-designed and 3D printed components, hopefully these will be up to the IVA standard. Photos of my build below, please
point out anything I may have missed.
Things I know still need doing:
- Covers for the Transit drag links
- Screwing down the handbrake 'gator'
- Fuel filler cap tether
- Brake fluid reservoir label
NB. my VIN is stamped direct onto a chassis tube on the offside. I re-read the IVA manual and realised my separate plate held in with two tack welds
(shown in third photo) wouldn't be enough...
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Ugg10
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:12 PM |
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Well done, perserverence is everything when building a kit.
General comments - wiring is ok but could be tidier, I assume you engine is pre 1995 and you have proof of that, if you have a bias brake box then
this will need locking and a sticker on top (looks like a tandem though), do you have the Sierra inertia valve in the rear brake circuit, may be ok
without if rear drums, finally brake lines need plenty of p clips on them.
Good luck with the test.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:16 PM |
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Not sure where your test is, mine at Norwich said the repeater indicators on the scuttle were no longer allowed, moved mine to the front wing and
passed
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:44 PM |
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looks good
you say about the vin, you also need this on a separate manufacturers plate
other things I noticed,
the side repeaters probably don't meet the rear view requirements
and
there seems to be a (red painted) screw thread in the leg/pedal area. (top right of third-last photo)
also,
iva might like more protection/ insulation around the battery + terminal.
is the welding on the bottom or the steering column original? it looks a bit odd.
one final thing, the bolts in the rear of the silencer might need to be radiused better.
none of the above is meant as criticism, it is good!
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chris_smith
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:48 PM |
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Well done on the build, really like the front indicator mounts.
First thing I noticed were the side repeaters need to be seen from a funny low angle at the rear(check Iva manual for angles) I'm guessing these
won't meet this criteria
Also check your view through your mirrors as they have specific angles to meet too
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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Joshy
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:49 PM |
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Fair point on the wiring, I'll go over it again with the spiral wrap and cable-ties.
Engine is pre-95 and I have proof.
No brake bias bar.
I do have an in-line pressure reduction device in the rear-brake circuit (running discs).
Brake lines are well clipped.
Rear-view mirrors were tested against the IVA regulations when I drilled the holes/fitted them. They're near the limit, but still within it (I
hope...)
Side repeaters... oh f**k! I have very little meat on my front wings, if I move them to the rear wings would this be acceptable?
Thanks!
Josh
[Edited on 11/4/17 by Joshy]
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 06:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Joshy
Side repeaters... oh f**k! I have very little meat on my front wings, if I move them to the rear wings would this be acceptable?
yes, but they
have to be not too far back...
quote:
note 5: A side repeater lamp must be fitted within 2600 mm of the front of the vehicle
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chris_smith
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 07:33 PM |
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You can leave the repeaters you have on the scuttle, then add these - Link to your rear arches
make sure you abide by the distance above
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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Andybarbet
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 07:56 PM |
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Well done for getting that far, I'm a long way off.
Love the battery tray & clamp.
Did you make the digidahs too ? It's really neat.
I've no advice on IVA I'm afraid bud it's a really neat looking car, good luck :-)
Give a man a fish & it will feed him for a day, give him a fishing rod & you've saved a fish.
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Joshy
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 08:03 PM |
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Thanks Andy! Yes I designed and built the digi-dash myself. Case is 3D printed, screen is laser cut. Electronics by my dad (A-level electronics
teacher and life-long tinkerer).
Manufacturers plate is being bolted on this evening.
The red screw thread is the rear eye for the bonnet catch. Similar screw thread in the passenger foot-well. Is this area tested for interior
projections?
Will 3D print a battery + cover.
The steering column was extended using some 3mm wall thickness seamless tube, seam welded to the rubber doughnut (bottom) and UJ (top) by myself, with
the welder on max amps (following the recommendations in the Haynes manual). Not much I can do about this now before the test...
Will remove the washers under the silencer bolts to bring the dome heads flush with the can. I assume the lip at the front of the can is OK? It is
very smooth...
Regarding those side repeaters, does anyone know where I can physically buy them from in the real world? If I order online I won't get them in
time for the IVA. Should have started this thread a few days ago...!
Thanks for the help!
[Edited on 11/4/17 by Joshy]
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 08:34 PM |
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You can move the side repeaters to the rear arch but check you don't exceed the max distance from the front. You will also have to remove the
current ones as you're only allowed one per side (just disconnecting won't do either).
You'll have to tidy up and wrap ALL the loom. Any unwrapped bits that can rub on something else could fail.
Apart from that it looks very nice. 
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 08:48 PM |
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quote:
The red screw thread is the rear eye for the bonnet catch. Similar screw thread in the passenger foot-well. Is this area tested for interior
projections?
yes, that area is checked
see also this parallel thread
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=208461
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 09:06 PM |
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one last thing,
I notice that your speedo can only read a max of 99mph
make sure the paperwork reflects this
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 09:11 PM |
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Rear arch for repeater will not do as it is too far back from the front of the car - see the manual for the exact distance - there are lots of
suppliers of repeaters I have some stick on 3 x 0.5 inch ones if you want to pm me I can send you which will sort the problem out by sicking them on
your front wheel mudgaurd
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kingster996
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| posted on 11/4/17 at 09:47 PM |
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Not sure the cycle wings will pass.
Check the IVA manual regarding them, can't recall it from memory but remember measuring mine at the time.
As others have said, side repeater are a fail as is the wiring.
Good luck!
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 07:48 AM |
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You might have an issue with the worm drive (jubilee) clips on the fuel lines. They can leak at the screw bit as the fixed radius can cause pince
points. Failures have been because the tester knew this or they were actually leaking in the past. There are specific clips for fuel hose.
Just remember do what you can but if it fails that's not the end of the world and then you've got a specific/accurate "to do"
list.
[Edited on 12/4/17 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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40inches
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 08:11 AM |
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The nut on the top ball joint may need some trim.
Mine passed IVA with the side repeaters on the rear wheel arch, but would have been better around 50mm further forward, they only passsed by
10mm!!!!!
 
Description
 
Description
[Edited on 12-4-17 by 40inches]
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pekwah1
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 08:23 AM |
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For reference, i failed my first IVA because i had welded areas on the steering column.
I was told that ANY welding on the column was not acceptable unless factory welded etc.
I ended up having to buy off the shelf splined rods and UJs etc to make up the length, expect a fail here potentially....
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Patten
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 08:44 AM |
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I think you might need boots over the battery terminals?
I know I was told too
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 10:01 AM |
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Great looking build, don't worry if you fail the iva like others have said at least you will have a short todo list. Most do not get a first
time passes.. I like the use of the 3D printer, nice results.
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 11:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Patten
I think you might need boots over the battery terminals?
I know I was told too
+1 well spotted.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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davidimurray
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 11:30 AM |
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Looks good
As other have said tidy up the wiring. Do you need a cover on the fixing for the centre mirror.
What speed does your dash go upto and what have you put down as max speed on the forms. When I had my IVA with an LCD motorbike dash he asked me for
proof that the dash went to 3 digits as I had put 100+ on the IVA forms. Luckily I had the paperwork with me in case I had to adjust the dash during
the test.
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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pekwah1
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 11:32 AM |
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Another one - do you have a lock or a tether on your fuel filler cap?
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Patten
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 12:12 PM |
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Also, Im not sure if the fuel hose will have to have some form of marking to prove its desgined for fuel?
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tims31
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| posted on 12/4/17 at 03:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Patten
I think you might need boots over the battery terminals?
I know I was told too
How do you go about this for a Red top battery as the boots wouldn't really stay in place. Would a knurled plastic nut be ok instead
Like these
 
Description
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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