not good - that is a thinn knife blade and it's a tight fit.
Rescued attachment DSC04817.JPG

Twat the fanimould with a hammer to put a dent in it or slot the engine mount holes to move it forward>??

Well it's out with the big ugly hammer and adjust the collector, or frame adjustment, or raise engine. IMHO you need at least 1 cm of space for engine movement in all directions.

that's gonna knock

See the first to responses for details.

Big hammer.

Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)

See the first two responses for details.

Big hammer.

Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)

See the first two responses for details.

Big hammer.

Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)

Defo big hammer job

ETA - i see you still havnt eaten that kit cat

[Edited on 11-8-09 by speedyxjs]

[Edited on 12-8-09 by speedyxjs]

The triangulation of the top tubes has already been lost by putting that U-shape cutout in, so why not just get rid of the problem sections?

Can't really see the point in the current cutout, it's no stronger/stiffer than the red option here:


Description

[Edited on 11/8/09 by matt_claydon]

this a photo of the top part of the chassis - if anyone wishes to make suggestions - bearing in mnd the exhaust needs to fit and noting position of radiator which limits triangulation solutions.
Rescued attachment DSC04424.JPG

Angry grind that tube out!

I'd rearrange the chasis tubes TBH - not the simplest option, but better than twatting the manifold about

Those tubes are doing nothing structurally. I'd just remove them and put a diagonal brace back towards the scuttle with a double tube down that side.

My mates F27 has loads of room in the engine bay with his crossflow. I thought the RV8 fitted in there too?

as above . ., big hammer or grind rail off and weld it up

My vote goes for, removing the tube and forget it was ever there

Regards

Rich

hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......
Rescued attachment chassis.jpg

alternatively just get a manifold that exits straight out the head and over the top chassis rail before it bends?

quote:

---

Originally posted by sminney
hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by sminney
hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......

---

How about modding the rail like this:
Rescued attachment o2gf.JPG

The classic fix in this case is the Y brace:


Engine bay Y brace

The angle of the long part of the brace w.r.t the chassis rail should be made as wide as possible; there seems to be a fair bit of clearance between the outside of the collector and the chassis rail which should make this possible.

whats the saying??? "measure twice, cut once"

quote:

---

Originally posted by AndyW
whats the saying??? "measure twice, cut once"

---

Change the radiator to the other side of the traverse tube, you may want to modify your Thermostat housing so it exits toward the fronto of the car.
Then use the suggested solution above by MikeRJ