Does anyone know the bestcheapest place to buy a Barnett clutch for a 5PW R1 ?
I'm nearly at the point of firing it up and want to put one in before I put everything else in the way.
What's the best set up ? extra spring, friction plates etc...
Thanks
I got my Barnett bits from PDQ. LINKY.
Have a look at their listing HERE.
HTH
Neil
There are lots of people who say just change the springs, but I have changed the whole clutch.
The barnett plates have a larger surface area so the springs have to be stronger to create the same pressure over a wider area.
I haven't run mine yet so not sure if it is any better.
My own guess is that it should last longer due to the spread load.
I got mine on ebay for £90 delivered about 10 months ago.
What effect would just changing the springs have, would it give more feel?
quote:
Originally posted by Johneturbo
What effect would just changing the springs have, would it give more feel?
Ok, think i just need to get use to it, the little bit of driving i've done, i've found it doesn't like lots of revs on pull away.the lower the better. the clutch travel/pivot is just the right amount.
Take a look at the Clutch replacement requirements in your R1 manual. Measure the thickness of the plates (friction and steel) and compare to service
tolerances and then go from there.
From personal experience I wouldn't change from OE plates, but would def do Barnett Springs, so if your plates are OK you'll save a few
quid... If not, I would still buy OEM Stuff.
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
Does anyone know the bestcheapest place to buy a Barnett clutch for a 5PW R1 ?
I'm nearly at the point of firing it up and want to put one in before I put everything else in the way.
What's the best set up ? extra spring, friction plates etc...
Thanks
Dont forget with the 5PW (and earlier), its not simply a case of buying stronger springs because the earlier R1 engines use a diaphragm spring rather
than a set of coil springs like most bike clutches.
IMHO you'd be better off buying the Barnett spring conversion kit which includes a new pressure plate etc, and then using the standard plates,
even using the existing ones in there if they're OK.
The spring conversion kit is the BEC alternative to putting in an additional diaphragm spring, its more expensive but does give a better clutch feel.
Stock clutch plates are absolutely fine though, I kept the original (4000 mile old) clutch plates that came with my 5PW engine and they're still
in there now nearly 3000 miles /10 trackdays / 3 years later.
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Dont forget with the 5PW (and earlier), its not simply a case of buying stronger springs because the earlier R1 engines use a diaphragm spring rather than a set of coil springs like most bike clutches.
IMHO you'd be better off buying the Barnett spring conversion kit which includes a new pressure plate etc, and then using the standard plates, even using the existing ones in there if they're OK.
The spring conversion kit is the BEC alternative to putting in an additional diaphragm spring, its more expensive but does give a better clutch feel. Stock clutch plates are absolutely fine though, I kept the original (4000 mile old) clutch plates that came with my 5PW engine and they're still in there now nearly 3000 miles /10 trackdays / 3 years later.
maybe here but ive not checked so could be wrong
quote:
Originally posted by Wheels244
Thanks Chris - is this the 6 coil spring conversion ? How much did you pay for it and where from ?
I've just read Fluke's fitting guide.
It says don't fit the race springs go for the road ones and some people put a washer on each spring for extra feel - did you do this ?
What's the feel like ? Much improved over standard ?
Thanks
I fitted the race springs and didnt have any problems, I think on some installs the springs can just start to bind so if the clutch plates are new it
might not quite disengage. My friction plates were the original ones in the engine though, so that may help.
As to the feel, Im not sure really as I fitted it when I installed the engine so can't compare, but everyone else thats fitted one afterwards say
its an improvement. To me its a vast improvement over my old 919 blade clutch, much more progressive and useable in traffic.
Regarding the fluke fitting guide, I think this was done at the time when the "race" springs did indeed bind so it was better to use the
road springs. I used the road spring with an additional washer underneath and it worked well.
I have subsequently bought another Barnett conversion for my spare engine. I noticed that the "race" springs are different now (they are
black) and do not bind like before. They work fine.
Like Chris, I would recommend you use the OEM plates. I only used Barnett Kevlar plates once and they did not last long before slipping. I have had 1
1/2 seasons of racing out of my current OEM set and they are still going strong :-)
Cheers
Paul
P.S. I have two original (as new) Yamaha diaphram springs that people can have (for doubling up your existing spring). Anyone who wants one just give
me a shout and they can have them for £5 each incl P+P.
[Edited on 11/6/08 by progers]
Chris Paul
Thanks very much for the info.
I'll order the conversion this week.
I'll stick with the OEM plates as you suggest.
Can't beat personal recommendations
Cheers lads
Rob